Need help with poor running RS.

[Dick Wells]

My Spyder started acting up, back about mid-Summer. Would start fine, run well for a couple of miles, then start to skip, and run on one cylinder.
Ended up, one day, coming back from accross our town, running on one cylinder, with about two miles to go to get home, and I was just nursing it along, down shifting to first, when I started to smell real heat. Pulled over and shut down, to find that the muffler was smoking hot, and the paint was hot enough to smell. Turns out, the non-firing cylinder had been pumping un-burned fuel into the muffler, and it had touched off. Let it cool for a few minutes and nursed it the rest of the way home.
Put in a new set of plugs (had 7000 miles on the originals) and the bike seemed to run better. Considered stopping by Cowtown on the way to Texas, where we spend the Winter, if the bike wasn't running well at the time. Things seemed to be all right, so we came on in to Brownsville. Now, over the last few days, the thing has started skipping again. Starts up just fine, and (usually) runs fairly well until it's warmed up. Then, the first skipping starts at idle, usually while waiting at a traffic light. Gets worse with time, and last night's little run over to WalMart (3 miles each way) left me wondering if I could make it back!
Strange thing is, it usually can be revved on by the idle/one cylinder missing, and will go like stink beyond that. Now, that probably won't be the case for long, since back a few weeks, the thing went from bad to worse, and seems to be doing the same thing again. So, since I'm thinking that I'm probably a long-long way from a Spyder dealer, maybe the guys on S.L. can give me a few ideas. Anybody here had a similar experience? Any problems with ignition wires?
Times like this, I wish I had a set of points and condensor in there.
I sure ain't gonna try any long rides until I can fix this thing, so any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dick Wells

[Dick Wells]

Well, well. I just happened onto the "new plug wires" thread! Haven't read through it yet, but just maybe there's something in there for little-ole me. Time will tell, but anyway, I'll take all the help I can get.
Dick Wells

[boborgera]

Well, well. I just happened onto the "new plug wires" thread! Haven't read through it yet, but just maybe there's something in there for little-ole me. Time will tell, but anyway, I'll take all the help I can get.
Dick Wells

I'll bet you'll find it's your spark plug wires.

[NancysToy]

I'll bet you'll find it's your spark plug wires.

After misfiring for so long, you had better replace the spark plugs again, too. If those don't cure it, it's probably time for a new trip to the dealer for diagnostics.

[MMcc]

Similar problem with my 2008 GS/RS. It was the plug wires. Dealer had first replaced the plugs and said everything was fine, plug wire were OK. 5 miles down the road it started to lose power and soon could just limp home. Hauled it to the dealer and they then replaced one plug wire (the rear one). Rode it for 20 miles that time before the same problem. Only now fire was coming out of the muffler. Burnt the paint. Back to the dealer. Now they replaced the front wire and new iridium plugs. No problems for the next 4xxx miles before I traded it for a 2011 RT-s.

[Dick Wells]

Thanks, folks. I'm thinking more, and more that it's the wires. I've been in there a lot, while checking the valve lash, among other things, and the first time I pulled the plugs out, the wires were just about glued in there!
Doubt if the plugs are bad, already, since there's only about 150 miles on them, and the bike's only been skipping for about five or six miles of that.

[NancysToy]

Thanks, folks. I'm thinking more, and more that it's the wires. I've been in there a lot, while checking the valve lash, among other things, and the first time I pulled the plugs out, the wires were just about glued in there!
Doubt if the plugs are bad, already, since there's only about 150 miles on them, and the bike's only been skipping for about five or six miles of that.

Do yourself a favor, and buy some plugs, too. 150 miles on a plug that is not firing will destroy it easily. You may need a new O2 sensor, too.

[eightballbob]

bajaron is your answer.

My Spyder started acting up, back about mid-Summer. Would start fine, run well for a couple of miles, then start to skip, and run on one cylinder.
Ended up, one day, coming back from accross our town, running on one cylinder, with about two miles to go to get home, and I was just nursing it along, down shifting to first, when I started to smell real heat. Pulled over and shut down, to find that the muffler was smoking hot, and the paint was hot enough to smell. Turns out, the non-firing cylinder had been pumping un-burned fuel into the muffler, and it had touched off. Let it cool for a few minutes and nursed it the rest of the way home.
Put in a new set of plugs (had 7000 miles on the originals) and the bike seemed to run better. Considered stopping by Cowtown on the way to Texas, where we spend the Winter, if the bike wasn't running well at the time. Things seemed to be all right, so we came on in to Brownsville. Now, over the last few days, the thing has started skipping again. Starts up just fine, and (usually) runs fairly well until it's warmed up. Then, the first skipping starts at idle, usually while waiting at a traffic light. Gets worse with time, and last night's little run over to WalMart (3 miles each way) left me wondering if I could make it back!
Strange thing is, it usually can be revved on by the idle/one cylinder missing, and will go like stink beyond that. Now, that probably won't be the case for long, since back a few weeks, the thing went from bad to worse, and seems to be doing the same thing again. So, since I'm thinking that I'm probably a long-long way from a Spyder dealer, maybe the guys on S.L. can give me a few ideas. Anybody here had a similar experience? Any problems with ignition wires?
Times like this, I wish I had a set of points and condensor in there.
I sure ain't gonna try any long rides until I can fix this thing, so any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dick Wells

[Dick Wells]

Thanks, folks. Ordered up and paid for, wires, and plugs, last night. Hopefully, Ron will have them coming my way, soon. I'm not going to start it up again, till they're installed. I really like the looks and sound of what he's doing with his kit. Looks like a lot of us are jumping on it.
If it turns out that I need an oxygen sensor, who has a line on the best way to go, price and value wise?

[2009spyder-ranger]

Hey everyone! I'm new to the forum thing. I could not find where to post a new forum but I seem to be having some of these same issues.

Lately my 2009 RS SM5 has been starting and idling rough. The idle seems to be on one cylinder until it warms up then once it gets running you can hear and feel the second cylinder kick in. Well last night after the bike had been running good throughout the day, I came out of the gym started the bike and it was doing the same idle issue but even after it warmed up the second cylinder never kicked in so I limped it back to the house bout 2.5 miles. I'm pretty sure my plugs need changed and planned on getting them changed but is there anything else that could be checked? Or is a good chance that it's just the plugs finally gave and it's time for new ones? Thanks for the help.

[BajaRon]

Hey everyone! I'm new to the forum thing. I could not find where to post a new forum but I seem to be having some of these same issues.

Lately my 2009 RS SM5 has been starting and idling rough. The idle seems to be on one cylinder until it warms up then once it gets running you can hear and feel the second cylinder kick in. Well last night after the bike had been running good throughout the day, I came out of the gym started the bike and it was doing the same idle issue but even after it warmed up the second cylinder never kicked in so I limped it back to the house bout 2.5 miles. I'm pretty sure my plugs need changed and planned on getting them changed but is there anything else that could be checked? Or is a good chance that it's just the plugs finally gave and it's time for new ones? Thanks for the help.

You don't say how many miles you have on the spark plugs and wires. But it is very likely that these are your problem. I sell 2 versions of custom wire sets along with the NGK Iridium IX spark plugs. These will most likely solve your problem.

Don't bother replacing the spark plugs without also replacing the OEM wires. You'll find the problem did not go away if you leave the wires in, regardless of how they look.

Custom Ignition Wire Sets for the Spyder
MSD - Red Wire Set - $65.00 Delivered - Wires Only (With Spark Plugs $82.00)
Accel - Black Wire Set - $72.00 Delivered - Wires Only (With Spark Plugs $89.00)


NGK Iridium Spark Plugs for All Spyders
DCPR9EIX (Colder Plug) - RS/GS/RSS - $17.00 a set Delivered
DCPR8EIX - (Hotter Plug) - All RT's (Can be used in all Spyders) - $17.00 a set Delivered

[2009spyder-ranger]

I bought the bike used with 6000 miles and have owned it now 2 years and I about 13000 miles on it so I'm guessing they might be original plug atleast they look like original plugs. They are not the performance plugs. Thanks for the help, I'll make sure to change wires and plugs. Or have the shop replace them. I have heard its a total pain to replace the plugs and wires, not sure if I'm ready for that battle.

[Rd_Runner]

Thanks, folks. Ordered up and paid for, wires, and plugs, last night. Hopefully, Ron will have them coming my way, soon. I'm not going to start it up again, till they're installed. I really like the looks and sound of what he's doing with his kit. Looks like a lot of us are jumping on it.
If it turns out that I need an oxygen sensor, who has a line on the best way to go, price and value wise?

A common problem across the spyders is a failure in the vacuum hoses at the throttle body. BRP used rubber that cannot handle the high temps under the plastic. They eventually dry out and crack. This leads air leaking into the intake and screws up the air-to-fuel ratio badly. Dealers usually stock the short vacuum hoses because they are such a common failure. A lot of spyder owners replace the OEM crap stuff with true high temp silicone vacuum lines and never have a problem.

Good luck!

- Mike

[BajaRon]

I bought the bike used with 6000 miles and have owned it now 2 years and I about 13000 miles on it so I'm guessing they might be original plug atleast they look like original plugs. They are not the performance plugs. Thanks for the help, I'll make sure to change wires and plugs. Or have the shop replace them. I have heard its a total pain to replace the plugs and wires, not sure if I'm ready for that battle.

13K is about the time that the wires will go away. On a 2009 you will have the copper core spark plugs that came on the 2009. The Iridium are a much better way to go. If you have a dealer install OEM wires and plugs be sure they put the current Iridiums in and not the copper core parts.

It is a bit of a job to change out the wires and plugs. If you use a good set you won't have to do it again for quite a long time. If you use OEM you'll be doing it again much sooner.

It's also good advise from Rd_Runner to check the vacuum hose on the throttle body as they were also a common issue. As long as you're checking, I highly recommend changing out to a good quality Silicone as suggested. That will keep you from having to do it later.

[Bob Denman]

Once you're up under the Tupperware: plugs, wires and hoses are most likely the way to solve the problem.

[SPYD1]

The plugs and wires that are OEM can be improved. Enough said. Even if u have the dealer do it buy a set of plugs and wires from Bajaron and have the dealer put them on.