Who's the FRIGGIN' IDIOT???

[Hawk]

Someone (with more time and knowelege than me) should put together a "Spyder Bible", with all dont's and put it on the front page!!!

[joe schmoe]

Someone (with more time and knowelege than me) should put together a "Spyder Bible", with all dont's and put it on the front page!!!

[NancysToy]

Beat him with a big stick until he moves the rear tire valve to the opposite side.

I don't think it's gonna happen. Despite having more room for access on the other side, the presence of the hot muffler there probably worried the lawyers...and you know what happens to the design when they get involved. Can you spell "Limp Mode"?

[ArmyJoe]

And while you're "storming" find the idiot who's responsible for the placement of the rear tire valve!

I accidently made that even worse. After replacing the rear tire, I aligned the valve with one of the sprocket spokes.

[Bob Denman]

Can you spell "Limp Mode"?

Well I'm up for at least making the guy limp a little...

[woodchuck]

I went to add a Gerbing heated clothing fuse connector to the wife's Spyder. I found the positive connector and also what looked like a EASY negative connection...Well I loosened the negative bolt and it just kept turning and turning and turning......It's not a pressed in threads for the bolt, NO it's a friggin' nut bolt set up...

Well whoever designed the Spyder was a FRIGGIN' IDIOT cause there is a nut attached to the chassis and you can't get to it unless you completely DISASSEMBLE the Spyder!! Plus to beat this PURE STUPIDITY, the fuse block where the POSITIVE terminates is RIGHT there within millimeters of this negative bolt....FRIGGIN' IDIOT ENGINEERS!!

Does anybody know how to get to this nut and tighten it back up??? I tried a wrench, pair of pliers, my fingers, channel locks and I just can't get to it...I can touch it with my fingers, but can't hold onto it to tighten it!!

It seems that everybody is overlooking the remedy for this bolt and nut.
Solution is go to your local hardware store and buy a bolt a little longer than the stock bolt and measure it against the stock bolt. Give yourself a few more threads and cut off the excess that you don't need. Before you cut the bolt, put the nut on first. That way the nut will clean the threads so it will go on easier when you install it.

[Vyperyder]

That reminds me....
I have to go out and buy one of them thar right angle valve stems, like on my Ducati.
Now how in the heck do you fit it ?????

[M109Dreamer]

I don't think it's gonna happen. Despite having more room for access on the other side, the presence of the hot muffler there probably worried the lawyers...and you know what happens to the design when they get involved. Can you spell "Limp Mode"?

I could see the next thread. "I added air to the back tire and it went into limp mode"

[M109Dreamer]

I accidently made that even worse. After replacing the rear tire, I aligned the valve with one of the sprocket spokes.

Mine came from the factory that way....

[GeoffCee]

And while you're "storming" find the idiot who's responsible for the placement of the rear tire valve!

I use a EZ-Air tire inflator, the push-on clip-on design makes connecting to the RT's rear tire inflator a relatively easy job and the pressure dial is accurate and easy to read. In use, over inflate by a few pounds and then use the air release button to bring it down to the correct reading.
http://www.getagage.com/Tire-Gauges/...age-EZ-Air.cfm
http://www.jerzeecustoms.com/GaugeTireEZ100.htm

[M109Dreamer]

I use a EZ-Air tire inflator, the push-on clip-on design makes connecting to the RT's rear tire inflator a relatively easy job and the pressure dial is accurate and easy to read. In use, over inflate by a few pounds and then use the air release button to bring it down to the correct reading.
http://www.getagage.com/Tire-Gauges/...age-EZ-Air.cfm
http://www.jerzeecustoms.com/GaugeTireEZ100.htm

Thank You Sir, that is exactly what I have been looking for.

[SpyderDon]

Just ordered one.

[Trickie Dick]

I use a EZ-Air tire inflator, the push-on clip-on design makes connecting to the RT's rear tire inflator a relatively easy job and the pressure dial is accurate and easy to read. In use, over inflate by a few pounds and then use the air release button to bring it down to the correct reading.
http://www.getagage.com/Tire-Gauges/...age-EZ-Air.cfm
http://www.jerzeecustoms.com/GaugeTireEZ100.htm

I've had one for a couple of years now and it probably works better than any alternatives I've seen. It can still be a to get to the valve stem.
It's a little cheaper here. http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ-...8506343&sr=8-1

[dancogan]

I have two of these EZ Air gauges and like them a lot. They make adjusting pressure much easier, particularly on the rear wheel of the Spyder.

One note of caution: both of mine read about 2# more pressure than the tire really has. Verify your gauge against another of known accuracy, and make whatever adjustments you might need.

[Questions]

Had the same problem once, I use a wrench that I found in my tool box which was on of those small cheap wrench you get with furnitures you have to built at home, I bent the thing till I was able to make it go in behind the opening when the screw is and I was able to connect with the bottom bolt. All went very well and I carry the wrench in the bike tool pouch just in case I need it again.

[boborgera]

Had the same problem once, I use a wrench that I found in my tool box which was on of those small cheap wrench you get with furnitures you have to built at home, I bent the thing till I was able to make it go in behind the opening when the screw is and I was able to connect with the bottom bolt. All went very well and I carry the wrench in the bike tool pouch just in case I need it again.

Now that you bent the wrench, how are you going to tighten your furniture when it loosens ??

[SpydeeBite2]

I'm ready...Where's my GUN???

The Spyder is fixed...I went to Sears got a crowfoot 10mm wrench, tied some fishing line to it (just in case I dropped it) and worked it into the slim narrow inaccessible crevasse...Got it on the nut and tightened the bolt back down...

Now when and where are we meeting for "Storming the Bastille"?

I am confused! If the slim narrow crevasse was inaccessible how were you able to access it??????????????

[GeoffCee]

Now that you bent the wrench, how are you going to tighten your furniture when it loosens ??

You make a good point, sloppy drawers are sure to be noticed in the locker room.

[Cuban Spyder]

I installed a battery tender and, like you, I couldn't believe it was a bolt and nut there. After removing the right tupperware panel, I was able to get the 10mm wrench form the tool kit that comes with the and loosen and tighten the bolt with a 10mm socket. The problem I had was holding the nut long enough to start the bolt back in to it. I ended up using a piece of duct tape wrapped sticky side out around a pencil to hold the nut in place long enough to start the bolt into it. Where there is a will, there is a way. Anyway, I got it all back together and vowed NEVER to take that loose again.

[ChazChuk24]

Yep......I decided to remove the negative battery terminal...before I read the horror stories. I just wanted let you ALL know that by reading ALL the posts I was able to get through it. After a crash course in removing the body panels on the right side I was able to figure out how to access the nut and get it re-tightened. After thinking about it for a while and trying a few things that did not work I decided to use a socket organizer. It was flat enough and rigid enough to slide up the angled part of the frame and held the nut tight. Then I just used the socket wrench up top to tighten it. Not much else to add except that everyone should download the operators manual from the web and print out on paper large enough to read. Also this website is a great resource.....couldn't have done it without it.

Thanks,
Chuck

[plescaille]

I went to add a Gerbing heated clothing fuse connector to the wife's Spyder. I found the positive connector and also what looked like a EASY negative connection...Well I loosened the negative bolt and it just kept turning and turning and turning......It's not a pressed in threads for the bolt, NO it's a friggin' nut bolt set up...

Well whoever designed the Spyder was a FRIGGIN' IDIOT cause there is a nut attached to the chassis and you can't get to it unless you completely DISASSEMBLE the Spyder!! Plus to beat this PURE STUPIDITY, the fuse block where the POSITIVE terminates is RIGHT there within millimeters of this negative bolt....FRIGGIN' IDIOT ENGINEERS!!

Does anybody know how to get to this nut and tighten it back up??? I tried a wrench, pair of pliers, my fingers, channel locks and I just can't get to it...I can touch it with my fingers, but can't hold onto it to tighten it!!

An 11 inch needle nose with a 90 degree turn will do the trick quite nicely. I bought mine at pep boys but you can get most anywhere.

[rcturner]

Yep......I decided to remove the negative battery terminal...before I read the horror stories. I just wanted let you ALL know that by reading ALL the posts I was able to get through it. After a crash course in removing the body panels on the right side I was able to figure out how to access the nut and get it re-tightened. After thinking about it for a while and trying a few things that did not work I decided to use a socket organizer. It was flat enough and rigid enough to slide up the angled part of the frame and held the nut tight. Then I just used the socket wrench up top to tighten it. Not much else to add except that everyone should download the operators manual from the web and print out on paper large enough to read. Also this website is a great resource.....couldn't have done it without it.

Thanks,
Chuck

My RT has a short jumper wire going from the problem bolt to a chassis ground that is easily accessible (easy for a Spyder). Getting the ground from this point is no problem. The issue is that it is not easily noticeable. This jumper is only a couple of inches from the problem bolt.

[Bob Denman]

An 11 inch needle nose with a 90 degree turn will do the trick quite nicely. I bought mine at pep boys but you can get most anywhere.

Is there any chance that you could throw a picture of this magical problem solver up here for those of us who don't think like mechanics?

Thanks!

[kyspyder]

Picture as requested!

KYSPYDER

[Dragonrider]

Got caught on that one too - I drilled a hole in the ground strap and used a self tapping screw to hold the charging ground, as well as add another grounding point. We'll see if it holds.