Oil Change troubles

[Badazzspydee]

I too did my first oil change on the "Pearl" yesterday. I first reviewed Lamonster's howto on jacking up the . I have a jack that looks identical to his and I followed his advice on where to place the jack. The lifted fine and I placed car ramps under the front wheels instead of floor jacks. Next I jacked up the rear end using my standard car jack. I placed a 4x4 timber under the rear tire and left the jack there also. I then reveiwed Lamonster's oil change shortcut where you take off a panel underneath and leave it off. I drained the oil tank and the engine block. I then removed the engine oil filter. As I looked for the transmission filter, seeing that the "Pearl" is an se5, I realized I would have to take off all the left side panels to get at this filter. That went fine. Getting to the right side bolt on the filter cap looked to be a challenge. I remembered reading a thread where someone drilled a small hole through the plastic support on the right side. I did the same and was then able to get at that bolt just fine. I replaced both filters and o-rings. At this point, I had to quit so I could take the wife out for her birthday supper. When we got back home, I decided to wait until this morning to finish up the oil change. Better to have a fresh mind and not make some silly mistake. So this morning I proceeded on. After putting in both drain plugs with new crush washers, I put in 3.2 quarts of Amsoil 10w40 synthetic. I then started the "Pearl" and checked for leaks. Everything checked out fine and the "Pearl" idled just like normal. I proceeded to put another 1.3 quarts of oil in the oil tank. I checked the oil level and it was right on the full line. So much for the actual oil change. I then proceeded to put all the side panels back on. The mirror even went back on without any trouble. In the end, everything was back in place and I didn't have any extra parts other than the bottom panel I had purposely left off. I removed the timber from under the rear wheel and then let the read end down. I placed my jack back under the and lifted the front far enough to remove the ramps. I then let the rest of the down.

At this point I was feeliing pretty good about having done my first oil change and not even saying any #$@%& words while doing it.

Now the bad part. I went to start the and the "Pearl" started to idle way high and die once the idle went down. The check engine light started to blink along with Limp Home. What the $%#@% now!! I did drive around the block to see if it would clear itself. No such luck. Back in the garage, I checked for error codes and found two, P2279 and P0106. The first code is an intake air system leak. Trouble shooting tip says to check for a cracked plenum intake or throttle body leak. The second code deals with manifold absolute pressure circuit range/performance. There could be a number of things wrong. Damaged sensor, circuit wires, problems with the emc. Tip says to make sure sensor connector is fully inserted. I had never disconnected any wires other than the mirror. I checked the one wire down by the engine oil filter but it seemed ok. I pulled the key and left for an hour or so. I hoped the computer would reset whatever may have happened but no such luck. Now the "Pearl" is headed for the dealer in the morning.

I have a question for Scotty. In another thread, Scotty stated that of his three , only one had gone into Limp Home mode and that was in the garage after an oil change. My question to Scotty is what did you find wrong at that time?

I know I have rambled on here, but this is my first issue with the "Pearl" in 4065 miles. I felt I was extra careful doing this oil change seeing that it was my first time. I really don't think I had done anything wrong but hard to believe in coincedences.

[NancysToy]

Mine went into limp mode due to a low oil pressure reading. The software failed to reset when the Spyder built pressure and the switch opened. The work-around is to rev the engine to about 3,500-4,000 rpm for 15 seconds. That was very disturbing, but it works. Yours certainly sounds like a connector came loose or a wire was accidentally disconnected, but it could have just been a coincidence. Are you sure you didn't open the airbox or feel around in the airbox/throttle body area?

[Badazzspydee]

I don't think so. I felt I only was dealing with the two filters and drain plugs along with filling the oil tank. Hope the dealer finds what happened and can let everyone know tomorrow.

[1BLACKSPYDER]

Scotty,
Have you ever had to drill anything on your bike to do an oil change?????
Wonder if he caught something with the bit by mistake?

[recordingguy]

When you had the
spyder in the air and you added the new oil was the spyder true to level. I think that that is very important when doing the oil change. Bob

[NancysToy]

Scotty,
Have you ever had to drill anything on your bike to do an oil change?????
Wonder if he caught something with the bit by mistake?

I don't have an SE, so I don't have to access that fastener. There should be nothing behind that panel that could be damaged, though. Sounds like a coincidence.

[Badazzspydee]

There is nothing to hit while drilling that hole. I have always worked on my bikes in the past and am very careful with anything I do. I think I had the spyder pretty well leveled while doing the oil change.I dropped of the "Pearl" at the dealer this morning and am waiting to hear what they find. Riding to the dealer, the bike ran rough but I could go over 40 mph. I checked for codes when I got to the dealer and only the P2279 showed. More later...

[Bob Denman]

Good luck and please kkep us posted!

(EVERY time I start to get up the nerve to try something under the Tupperware... )

[cgroh360]

a friend of mine did the same thing (changed his oil in the garage) and did everything right and the bike went into Limp mode also. we looked at everything and couldn't find anything that might have caused that. This wasn't the first oil change he did so that isn't the case, anyway he disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while and everything rebooted up fine and limp mode is gone and running great.

[Badazzspydee]

The "Pearl" is still in the shop. I have a feeling that Dan the mechanic isn't having much luck finding anything. He has been pretty good at trouble shooting in the past but this one might be one of those "mystery" problems. Will post back once I know more.

[J W Miller]

If I put that much oil in my 2010RTS it would be over full.Most I have ever used is 4.2 and yes I check it as per the book.I know this has little to do with your problem but just thought I would throw that in there.Hope your dealer can find problem.

[Lamonster]

The "Pearl" is still in the shop. I have a feeling that Dan the mechanic isn't having much luck finding anything. He has been pretty good at trouble shooting in the past but this one might be one of those "mystery" problems. Will post back once I know more.

Let us know what they find out because the codes make no sense at all.

[Badazzspydee]

Ok, here is what happened, we think. When I removed the LH Splash panel from under the oil tank, I didn't have to unclip the wire that is supposed to be attached to that panel. I didn't give any more thought to that wire. After adding oil, I started the and checked for leaks and then shut it down and added the last amount of oil that was required. I put all the covers back on but did leave the Splash panel off. After lowering the I started it again and that is when it ran terrible and kicked out the codes and limp home. At this point I had never put it in gear to move it. The was then drove around the block to see if things would clear but didn't, therefore the next morning I drove it to the dealer and it actually ran pretty good. Dan the mechanic saw the codes but they didn't make any sense. He talked to BRP and they made a couple of suggestions on what may be wrong. They thought the codes being returned were bogus. Once they found out an oil change was done, they said too check the GBPS wire (the one connected to the splash panel) to see if it was disconnected or had a rubbed spot. Sure enough, the wire had rubbed on the front drive. Dan had to use a magnifying glass to find the actual wire (there are 5 in the bundle) which had the short. He was able seal it back up so no moisture could get in and then zip tied it away from the front drive. The test drive didn't cause any code and the "Pearl" ran like a top again.

In retrospect, I still think the initial problem was something else seeing the had not been moved so the front drive hadn't even turned yet. The ride around the block and to the dealer more than likely caused the rubbing.

Bottom line, $165 later the "Pearl" is back to normal.

[stillriding]

Bottom line, $165 later the "Pearl" is back to normal.[/QUOTE]

You're dealer charged THAT much????

[Badazzspydee]

At $95 an hour, I know they worked on it over two hours. I was expecting it to be more.

[StormSpyder]

I got it all done except getting the tupper ware back on. Having trouble with the bottom stuff. Need better pics as how it should look. Does anyone have better pics. I should have taken pics as I was removing the panels. having trouble with the last two panels that come off. Have the oil pan back on, need better pics.

The oil was like new, not like 3000 miles, seems like it could have run another 3000miles. I have changed a lot of oil in my day and this was the cleanest I have seen.

Any better pics or help getting the back together will help.

Dave