Getting harder to start!

[bruiser]

I'm beginning to have more problems with hard starts when my is hot. Since Friday last I put almost 1,000 miles on my RTS. Air temps were high, low to mid 90s. It just took a few tries to get the thing started then when it did start it was slow to respond to throttle input. I know there are problems with the throttle bodies but mine seems to be getting worse. And it's embarrassing. Wish they had the fix for 2010s like they have for the 2011s.

[SpyderAnn01]

Mine is hard to start when the engine is warm it really doesn't matter if the air temp is high or not.

[Slybird]

I'm not entirely certain that's what you want.
On the second attempt, I've found cracking the throttle just a hair will usually do the trick.

.....I'll ditto that response and also cracking the throttle just a hair helps to keep it running, too.....otherwise, she chokes out and dies.

[bruiser]

Yeah, I tried just cracking it a little but it didn't seem to help like it use to. I let it set longer to cool down on one stop and it started easier but still not like it should. I have the 6,000 mile service scheduled so I'll have them take a look. Maybe it was just protesting the long rydes. It hasn't been driven that hard since i've owned it.

[NancysToy]

Time to check your spark plugs and plug wires. They don't start well on one cylinder. A high resistance plug or wire will run without missing when going down the road, but will tend to make for hard starting...especially when hot. If your gas mileage also dropped off suddenly, it is time for a tune-up...so to speak.

[Bob Denman]

The dreaded RT spark plug change????

[daydreamer]

It isn't as bad as I imagined.
It can all be done from the one side if you have faith, small hands and a wobble.

ummmm
the wobble is on the extension not the mechanic.

I only had my 2010 RTS for 5 weeks and it had 16 miles on it. When it got little over 100 miles, that when my being to get hard to start. Canam knows about this and they said that " they are working on it. The way I see it, if they can fix the 2011, they can fix the 2010. I am getting really to ckeck into the Lenom Law. I know here in VA. if you take a car or bike in for the same problem 3 times, you have a right to have them to replace it. I am also going to report them to the BETTER BUSINESS BUR. If other people who is having the same problem would report this, then maybe Canam will readly do something. Sorry, if I this sound a little over broad, but when I called Canam, the woman I spoke to, when I told her when I ride and go it cut it off and go inside a store and come back out to start it, it was hard to start, then she told me," let it sat for a few hours before I start it again". That made me bad. I told her would you wait? NO ANSWER (not susprise).

[manoman14]

When this happens to me, I simply open the throttle and crank the engine for one or two seconds, release the throttle while cranking, and the engine starts right up. To me the cure to the so called problem is much worse than the disease. It is really a non issue to me.

[MouthPiece]

When this happens to me, I simply open the throttle and crank the engine for one or two seconds, release the throttle while cranking, and the engine starts right up. To me the cure to the so called problem is much worse than the disease. It is really a non issue to me.

I'll second that, and it CERTAINLY isn't an issue for a lemon law. IMHO.

Chris

[Tonga]

My tech guy told me the 2010's throttle closes up after shut down that is why it is hard to start. He said just crack the throttle and it will start easier. Well, it still takes two tries. It has something to do with emissions, no gas vapors getting into the atmosphere I guess??

[Bob Denman]

ummmm
the wobble is on the extension not the mechanic.

Darn! I even went out and bought an extra six-pack of courage!!!

[NancysToy]

I was one of the first to report this problem on the 2010s. They cured it for the 2011, but in the process created another problem, which caused the need for the WB 2011-7 throttle body update, and caused a pretty large number of the throttle bodies to fail and need to be replaced. Be careful what you wish for!

The workaround specified by BRP tech is to crack the throttle when starting if the Spyder doesn't immmediately start normally. I found that if it does not start with the throttle cracked, in a couple of tries, holding the throttle wide open (WOT) and cranking through (it will not start at WOT) to clear the cylinders will do it. After that it usually starts normally. If not, try the cracked throttle again. I never had to repeat the WOT sequence a second time, even for the most stubborn incident.

[daydreamer]

Please tell me these are typos. If not you aren't even close to being broke in yet. You need to get out there and put some real millage and that Spyder! 100 miles and you are talking lemon law, really!!! miles

Oh and to our little pack.

I only had my 2010 RTS for 5 weeks and it had 16 miles on it. When it got little over 100 miles, that when my being to get hard to start. Canam knows about this and they said that " they are working on it. The way I see it, if they can fix the 2011, they can fix the 2010. I am getting really to ckeck into the Lenom Law. I know here in VA. if you take a car or bike in for the same problem 3 times, you have a right to have them to replace it. I am also going to report them to the BETTER BUSINESS BUR. If other people who is having the same problem would report this, then maybe Canam will readly do something. Sorry, if I this sound a little over broad, but when I called Canam, the woman I spoke to, when I told her when I ride and go it cut it off and go inside a store and come back out to start it, it was hard to start, then she told me," let it sat for a few hours before I start it again". That made me bad. I told her would you wait? NO ANSWER (not susprise).

I have over 1500 miles. I was just saying it start it little over 100 miles. And thanks for welcome me.

[daydreamer]

I have over 1500 miles. I was just saying, that was when my start it at little over 100 miles.
and also I did called about the LEMON LAW, If you take it back 3 or more times with the same problems.And yes this is a issue. Thanks you for the welcome.

[Lamonster]

So it's a known problem with the 2010 model (1st year) and with the 2011 (2nd year) they over-engineered the fix resulting in an update. We don't know if they completely solved it with the 2012 model but if they didn't maybe for the 2013 they will scrap the fly-by-wire throttle and go to a basic no frills but it works RS type throttle control.

If you scrap the fly by wire you'll also scrap the cruise control. The issue with the throttle body has been fixed and it has more to do with the valve overlap than the throttle body.

[shep2]

Soundds like old fashion Vapor Lock to me.

[Bob Denman]

Hang on a second and let me catch up...
If the bike is warmed up and the fire doesn't light when the right thumb strikes; try cracking the throttle just a wee bit and thumb it again??
If that don't work, clear its throat with a WOT cranking, release it and then try the normal procedure??
Did I get all of that right??
Sorry for my slowness... it's Friday afternoon and I'm already out the door and on the road somewhere...

I'd almost say that it sounds like a wet plug that doesn't want to party anymore!

[Lamonster]

Cruise control has been around long before fly-by-wire throttle. The RS can can fitted with 2 different aftermarket cruise controls. If the problem has been solved then my suggestion for 2013 is rendered moot. Actually to be honest the problem would never affect me because I will never own a RT. It's just not my cup of tea. The RS is as complex as I want to go technology wise.

I know, I put one on my RS back in Feb of 2008, the pics are gone but the post is still there.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...light=audiovox

Having both cable and fly by wire I much prefer FBW over cable. You don't realize how much more effort it takes to twist the throttle till you go back to a cable setup. As many miles as I put on in a day I can use all the help I can get.

[NancysToy]

Hang on a second and let me catch up...
If the bike is warmed up and the fire doesn't light when the right thumb strikes; try cracking the throttle just a wee bit and thumb it again??
If that don't work, clear its throat with a WOT cranking, release it and then try the normal procedure??
Did I get all of that right??
Sorry for my slowness... it's Friday afternoon and I'm already out the door and on the road somewhere...

I'd almost say that it sounds like a wet plug that doesn't want to party anymore!

Yes, you have it right...and you said it far more simply that I did. Not exactly a wet plug, but a similar condition. It is a result of a combination of the valve overlap, a slightly open throttle plate, and fuel saturation and expansion in the intake, due to the hot engine.