To prevent oil from running onto the pan beneath the oil tank when draining the oil, insert a 2" long section of 1" diameter clear plastic hose (available from Lowes) through the hole in the pan, and over the boss on the bottom of the tank. This will allow passage of the hex extension through the hose so that the plug can be removed. Once the oil has been drained, the hose can be removed and the plug replaced.
Dave Never leave well enough alone! (Raymond Loewy)
To prevent oil from running onto the pan beneath the oil tank when draining the oil, insert a 2" long section of 1" diameter clear plastic hose (available from Lowes) through the hole in the pan, and over the boss on the bottom of the tank. This will allow passage of the hex extension through the hose so that the plug can be removed. Once the oil has been drained, the hose can be removed and the plug replaced.
Some people are just too darn clever. Excellent idea!
Aspydering Ryder subsisto inrideo amicitia I may not be perfect but, I am Canadian, and that's close enough!
So how do you avoid the oil that drools onto the pan when you remove the oil filter cover? I don't have this problem...my splash pan came off at my first oil change and has never returned.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
So how do you avoid the oil that drools onto the pan when you remove the oil filter cover? I don't have this problem...my splash pan came off at my first oil change and has never returned.
What really bothers me is the oil that drools down all the cast cooling fins when you remove the trans filter cover.
I took a flat blade screwdriver and wedged the edge of a rag in the fins just under the transmission oil filter. It worked well in keeping the oil from running down the fins and making a mess.
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I took a flat blade screwdriver and wedged the edge of a rag in the fins just under the transmission oil filter. It worked well in keeping the oil from running down the fins and making a mess.
Another good idea, thanks
Love my
Statistics show that most motorcycle accidents are caused by a defective nut holding the handlbars.
What really bothers me is the oil that drools down all the cast cooling fins when you remove the trans filter cover.
I usually have the same problem but yesterday when I changed oil I loosely stuffed two paper towels under the trans filter and they absorbed the oil that ran out. I do change the transmission filter last. Maybe I just got lucky but I will try this again next oil change.
I took a flat blade screwdriver and wedged the edge of a rag in the fins just under the transmission oil filter. It worked well in keeping the oil from running down the fins and making a mess.
Good simple idea I will have to try that this weekend.
So how do you avoid the oil that drools onto the pan when you remove the oil filter cover? I don't have this problem...my splash pan came off at my first oil change and has never returned.
Scotty, the pan I'm refering to is the metal pan under the oil tank. I remove the plastic splash pan under the engine drain and filter during each oil change... only 3 bolts, and no big deal.
Dave Never leave well enough alone! (Raymond Loewy)
Scotty, the pan I'm refering to is the metal pan under the oil tank. I remove the plastic splash pan under the engine drain and filter during each oil change... only 3 bolts, and no big deal.
Thanks for the clarification. I have never had much difficulty with oil on the metal bracket. If a little splashes on there it wipes right up. I may look at your solution, though. It is pretty simple and looks effective.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Thanks for the clarification. I have never had much difficulty with oil on the metal bracket. If a little splashes on there it wipes right up. I may look at your solution, though. It is pretty simple and looks effective.
I used to stuff a rag around the hole in the pan to absorb any stray oil, because just lowering the plug through the hole caused oil to splatter onto the pan. Try this... you'll like it.
Dave Never leave well enough alone! (Raymond Loewy)
I don't usually pull the plug out through the hole. I loosen it with the socket, then screw it out by hand, keeping it pushed toward the tank (or engine). When it is completely loose, I pull it to the side quickly.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
I don't usually pull the plug out through the hole. I loosen it with the socket, then screw it out by hand, keeping it pushed toward the tank (or engine). When it is completely loose, I pull it to the side quickly.
Wow! The newer RT's must haver more clearance between the pan and the tank. There's no way that plug would fit between there on mine.
Dave Never leave well enough alone! (Raymond Loewy)
Wow! The newer RT's must haver more clearance between the pan and the tank. There's no way that plug would fit between there on mine.
Skinny hands, and it just clears...I think. It may not, I never pay much attention, and I could be confusing it with another of my fleet. Seems like I am doing an oil change every week around here.
Update: I changed the oil last week and I did remove the plug from above, with my (skinny) fingers after it was loosened. Just to test, I put it back and also removed it with just my socket and a 2" extension in it (no ratchet), through the bottom with no oil splash. The secret is to be fast with either method.
Last edited by NancysToy; 09-26-2011 at 08:38 PM.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
I did it that way and it worked great. Thanks for the tip.
Mike
Here's another way: Do the trans filter last. With the oil reservoir drained and it's plug out, place a drain pan under the reservoir. Now, holding the trans filter cover against the engine, slack the trans filter screws a few turns. Quickly then, pull back on the cover momentarily and then reseat it. You will allow a gulp of air in. This will cause the oil to run out internally and you will see it run into the reservoir drain pan. When it stops running, you can take off the filter with no mess.
I replaced the OEM oil plugs with some of those super-duper magnetic ones (Gold... something, I think). They have a standard hex head design, so stick down further. Might be able to use Scotty's method with my fat fingers, but not the 1" drain tube method. They are far too magnetic to drop on their own.
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I replaced the OEM oil plugs with some of those super-duper magnetic ones (Gold... something, I think). They have a standard hex head design, so stick down further. Might be able to use Scotty's method with my fat fingers, but not the 1" drain tube method. They are far too magnetic to drop on their own.
Easiest way with a hex head is to go from below with the appropriate socket. After the plug is loose, use either the deep-well socket alone or a standard socket and short extension to loosen the plug by hand. Keep light pressure against the plug until it is completely loosened, then just pull down and out. The same thing works with the stock plug and a hex socket. You get very little or no oil on your hand, tools, or the panel.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Before I remove the transmision filter I line the fins below with duct tape to form a trough. This allows the oil to be directed to a can as the filter cover is removed. The oil on the tape is wiped up and the fins and block stay clean.
RT-S: HMT brake light, mud flap lights/turn signals, Trailer hitch, Garmin 660 GPS, Ride-On, Travel cover, LED Mirror turn signals, LED trunk lighting, RGB ground effect lighting, BajRon anti-sway bar, to be continued ......
Sorry if this is somplace on the site as I'm new here and just purchased my Spyder RT. How often do you guys change your engine oil and transmission oil? Do you get some kind of nag light that comes on. I have a Can-Am 4 wheeler that gives you a service light that can only be reset by a dealer which is a real pain. Thanks for the great site.
Sorry if this is somplace on the site as I'm new here and just purchased my Spyder RT. How often do you guys change your engine oil and transmission oil? Do you get some kind of nag light that comes on. I have a Can-Am 4 wheeler that gives you a service light that can only be reset by a dealer which is a real pain. Thanks for the great site.
The book [warranty] says Every 3 thousand miles. As far as the service light gos ,None on the Spyder.
But on the ATV when the light comes on you might be able to reset it by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes.