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  1. #1
    Active Member 1VENOM's Avatar
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    Unhappy Please, I need help with an electical issue.

    First I'd like to say thank you for checking this thread.
    I have LED's fender tips and mud flap Led's from ESI. They have been on my bike for about two years. They are of the highest quality, and, I have had no issue with them.
    The issue I have is, my right mud flap suddenly stopped working. Then I notice that my fender tip on the right side was very dim. My first thought is the LED was going bad, and that my wiring had a short in it, going to the mud flap. No that was not it. I jacked up the bike and removed the fender. I found nothing wrong with the wiring or it's layout. I then removed the left side to inspect it, compare and to jumper from the left side to the right. When I did this, the right side mud flap LED works excellent. My fender tips also worked fine. I check the voltage on the right side leds coming from under the bike and the voltage was 12 volts. It measured the same on the left side. When I checked for resistance there was a large difference between the left side and the right side which seemed very low. I'm not sure if that means anything or not.

    Before I remove the Frunk, and start checking any other wires for a grounded lead, I would like to ask if, what I have may be in the lighting or turn signal switch? All other turn signals and lighting seem to be fine. I'm starting to remove hair in large patches, and my wife is starting to question my sanity, (talking to the walls and floors).
    Any and all suggestions and recommendations would be helpful at this point.

    Rod
    Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary

  2. #2
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I cannot offer any electrical expertise--but am watching for the experts to come on. They will.

    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  3. #3
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    Default Lighting issue

    Not bing familiar with your led wiring, I would check the ground connections. Good luck.

  4. #4
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    I too had some issues with my mudflap lights. The left side was dim, about half of what the right side was. I had them off not too long ago to do some work on the fenders and that's when I noticed a lot of corrosion in the plug connectors. I cleaned them up best that I could and added a little dielectric grease to the plugs. All was fine for a while but like I said the left side went dim on me. For whatever reason it fixed itself in Sturgis and has been fine ever since. My guess is I had a bad connection that was right on the edge of working.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem (with the tips and mudflap lights) and didn't find the cause until I was installing the TricLed fenderz leds. Someone had overtightened the posi-tap on the side with the problem cutting through some of the individual strands. I didn't notice it until I pulled the wire at the 'tap' end. Of course yours may not be that simple.

  6. #6
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    Somebody needs to put out a call to RattiganRoger...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Active Member 1VENOM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger View Post
    I'm a bit confused which is my default mode.


    But as Lamont said, the connectors are probably somehow to blame either by not connecting well enough or by a resistive short across that isn't low enough to kill the string completely (moister/crud will do both).
    I have the Frunk off now and have been running resistance checks at every connector. I have found no moisture or crud in any connector yet. I have also been comparing left/right wiring harness as I go. I just pulled the instrument cluster out and will continue to update as I go.

    Weather here is great which makes this even more frustrating.
    Rod
    Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary

  8. #8
    Active Member 1VENOM's Avatar
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    Instrument cluster removed. Did another voltage check, with the key in the (on) position, all tail and running lights read, 12 volts, except the right front, which is at 8 volts. Heading back in the garage to remove the bottom of the handle bars to expose the ignition switch. I believe, if I have 12 volt coming off the ignition switch, it should be easier to locate the, open/and or short. I haven't blow any fuses, yet! Wish me luck and good hunting.

    Rod
    Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary

  9. #9
    Very Active Member cyclelover63's Avatar
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  10. #10
    Active Member 1VENOM's Avatar
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    Default I think I found the problem

    OK, here me out. I have the Street Magic (Fender Tip Conversion), when I removed the lead from the right side wiring, I had a full 12 volts down the wire, (right side), to my fender tips and mud flap lights. Now, I don't have the conversion to turn signals anymore, but now I know what the problem is. Now all I have to do is manufacture another lead to replace the shorted lead. I'll update this thread, if the problem is in fact resolved or any further issues come up.
    Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary

  11. #11
    Blazing Member fastfraser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1VENOM View Post
    OK, here me out. I have the Street Magic (Fender Tip Conversion), when I removed the lead from the right side wiring, I had a full 12 volts down the wire, (right side), to my fender tips and mud flap lights. Now, I don't have the conversion to turn signals anymore, but now I know what the problem is. Now all I have to do is manufacture another lead to replace the shorted lead. I'll update this thread, if the problem is in fact resolved or any further issues come up.
    I have had 1 repaced under warranty and bought a 2nd set which I have replace a 2nd Fender Tip Conversion Harness !I found that where the wires from the plug under the A arms meet at a heat wrapped connection with the long blue wire that goes up to the turn signal is where I loose power. I think that the heat wrapped connection isn,t all that water proof as both times Iv'e had trouble it was while rideing in the rain .
    Happy Owner






  12. #12
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    In order to maintain proper voltage you must solder all connections, then heat shrink the connections. It sounds like the voltage is dropping due to poor connections.

  13. #13
    Active Member 1VENOM's Avatar
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    I want to than everyone who, provided input and suggestions, in trouble shooting my electrical problem. The wire, provided for the ESI, "Spyder Fender Tips", has a spliced joint in the middle of the wire with shrink tubing around it. The drop in voltage and currant was found by opening up the shrink tubing where I found corrosion. I remove the, Spyder Fender Tips kit for now and my electrical issue is now gone. I will try to repair it but if that doesn't work, I live with what I have now. Thank you for your help. Rod
    Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary

  14. #14
    RT-S PE#0031 MarkLawson's Avatar
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    With something like this, it is sometimes easier to cut out the existing wiring and rewire, than to troubleshoot the existing wiring to locate the problem.
    Mark & Mary Lou Lawson
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    "Remember in the darkness what you have learned in the light." - Joe Bayly



  15. #15
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1VENOM View Post
    I want to than everyone who, provided input and suggestions, in trouble shooting my electrical problem. The wire, provided for the ESI, "Spyder Fender Tips", has a spliced joint in the middle of the wire with shrink tubing around it. The drop in voltage and currant was found by opening up the shrink tubing where I found corrosion. I remove the, Spyder Fender Tips kit for now and my electrical issue is now gone. I will try to repair it but if that doesn't work, I live with what I have now. Thank you for your help. Rod
    Reading this, it sounds like the wire was just twisted together and then covered with heat shrink tubing. Thats never a good connection for something that experiences vibration and moisture. That type of connection should always have the wires soldered together with heatshrink put over the joint.
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  16. #16
    Active Member 1VENOM's Avatar
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    Just to clarify the wire comes that way from ESI. Not something I did, but to warn anybody installing the Fender Tips kit, ensure you use, something like liquid tape over the shrink tubing. That would have eliminated, or at least reduced the chance of failure and the time I've lost riding while I've been trouble shooting. Again thanks to all of your inputs.
    Rod
    Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary

  17. #17
    Registered Users Spyder#353's Avatar
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    I had basicly the same problem on my left fender. what mine was the pigtail for the turn signal. Once I disconnected and removed it everything was fine. Just diidn't have turn signals anymore.
    Steve

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