Heat Issue Problem Solved?

**Hokiev** · 08-10-2011, 07:48 PM

Is anyone aware of a Service Bulletin for the excessive heat on the Spyder?

On another forum there is a posting today (8/10/2011) indicating BRP is providing some sort of "repair/parts" to fix this issue. Or is that just wishful thinking on their part?

I already have the Spyderpops Catalytic Converter shields and air dam but still get a lot of excessive heat coming up on my 2011 LT. Would love to know BRP has a solution.

**Y Rider** · 08-10-2011, 09:26 PM

I have a 2011 RT LTD and I have SpyderPops Cat Shields and LaBlock installed. With both belly pans the heat reduction is much better. However, my right foot still gets pretty toasty when using my Kewlmetal highway pegs. I also have a ISCI FanCan but haven't installed it yet. It's not a simple install on this model. I don't want to bend or cut anything to make it fit. So when I have some time to take the right side apart I will install the FanCan. Hopefully that will be the final fix.

**Pennyrick** · 08-11-2011, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by Hokiev

Is anyone aware of a Service Bulletin for the excessive heat on the Spyder?

On another forum there is a posting today (8/10/2011) indicating BRP is providing some sort of "repair/parts" to fix this issue. Or is that just wishful thinking on their part?

I already have the Spyderpops Catalytic Converter shields and air dam but still get a lot of excessive heat coming up on my 2011 LT. Would love to know BRP has a solution.

I have not heard of any service bulletin. When we complained to Can Am about this problem on my wife's '10 RT last year we did get a call back from Carlo. He was very polite but basically said... 'live with it'. On the 2010 RT we have added the Vertika ram air vents, the cat heat shields, the Spyderpops vent blocker (remember to remove the pan on the right side if you install this) and Baker air wings. The best solution appears to be the air wings although we are having the Y gaskets on the right side checked when it goes in for service next week.

I have a 2011 RT that doesn't appear to run as hot as my wife's does. I have an Avon rubberized nylon deflector installed that moves the hot air out of the radiator outlet farther into the air stream away from the bike. That seems to work for me.

**ulflyer** · 08-12-2011, 06:58 AM

After installing Spiderpop's blocker on the top exhaust port, I still didn't like the heat out of the lower port hole so I fashioned a cover for it out of soft aluminum flashing , painted it black, and that made a world of diff. Also, lots of heat escapes around the top blocker so I glued some rubber around the edges wherever I detected the offensive flow which further sealed off the heat. I now ride comfortable with foot proped on the air wing. One other thing I did which may not be necessary but I did it anyway, is dremeled out a larger opening in that underneath pan to allow the heat to escape downward more easily. So far has worked well at 100F.

**rickm** · 08-13-2011, 08:23 AM

I tryed to remove the bottom pan but it didn't want to come off. I took the 2 bolts out of the center support, are there any others ? Is it around something else that has to come off first ? Help me get this pan off please ? Rick

**NancysToy** · 08-13-2011, 08:48 AM

Originally Posted by rickm

I tryed to remove the bottom pan but it didn't want to come off. I took the 2 bolts out of the center support, are there any others ? Is it around something else that has to come off first ? Help me get this pan off please ? Rick

There is another bolt, and a speednut, beneath the lower wind deflector.

**rickm** · 08-13-2011, 08:52 AM

Thanks Scotty !

**REDSPY** · 08-13-2011, 08:56 AM

Use a screwdriver to put outward presure behind the 3rd bolt head as you using your racket to remove the bolt. This takes some time as this bolts is longer than the other two bolts (1 1/4 - 1 1/2 inches long). This procedure worked for me with not problems.

**garganos** · 08-14-2011, 09:10 AM

Try wrapping the header pipes with pipe wrap. You can get it from any speed shop. It helps reduce the radiant heat coming from the pipes and allows the pipe to do what they are suppose to, push exhaust heat out the tail pipe. It does reduce the under panel heat. It takes time to do about 2-3 hours and it's teadious, but it's worth it.

**tedlmac** · 01-06-2014, 05:02 PM