Brightside / Mud Flap / TIPS / Tricled Fender Light Install Observation

[M109Dreamer]

Below are the things that I experienced while installing everything today. The complete install took 4 hours last night and another 4 hours today. This is the first time I had ever taken any of the plastic off or Mod'ed the wifes spyder.

TIPS:
I didn’t care for having to zip tie the new plugs with the OEM TIPS plugs, wish there was a double bracket like the stock one that you could securely mount the Plugs too. I also didn’t care for having to route the “blue” wire all the way up to the big hole where the mirrors mount. I ended up routing my blue wire from the underneath along where the brake line is routed and then up and inside the plastic lip on the outside of the headlights and out the hole where the plug is for the mirrors. Having an extra person to help is highly recommended.

Mud Flap Light:
The thing that I didn’t like is how the wire is routed under the fender. The instructions has you use the supplied zip ties and attach them through the drain holes on the plastic support of the fender housing assy. I just don’t think that they keep the wire tucked and out of the way. What I am going to do tomorrow is get more of the 3M square zip tie holders and put a few of those on the inside of the plastic fender support just to keep the wire away from the tire as much as possible.

Front Brightside’s:
I would recommend using a putty knife to remove the side reflectors. I was trying to use a small screwdriver and scratched the fended a little, yep not a happy camper. Now I need to find touch up paint. Because the side reflectors use a black cushion the putty knife will go just through it and you can remove pull off the reflectors.

Tricled Fender Lights:
Went pretty straight forward. One thing NOT to do is use alcohol to wipe the clear platic on the outside. Made mine gummy and had to clean up the strip after that. Just use a towel to wipe over to press the LED strip into the channel.

***Wiring:
I ran ALL of the wiring into 1 PAIR of Posi-Taps just behind the fender light plug. According to there website, you can use up to 4 wires with each posi-tap. When you run the wire up and out the front fender turning light, before you cut the excess, ADD 3” of wire before you cut it. There is plenty of room in the hole where the front fender light goes into to tuck the remainder in there. Stripped the wires and plugged it all up and everything is good-to-go. Instead of trying to hook everything up through the little hole on the front of the fender, I had my “helper just lift the front of the fender and hooked them up. I was a lot easier for folks with big hands. Then I just tucked the wires in the front part of the front fender while pushing the plug out the hole in the front of the fender. Then just reinstall the fender and the wheels and MOC your work. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands with all the wiring in the fenders.

***On all of the stickers and reflectors, the easiest way I found to remove all of the adhesive is just to rub it with your finger. Then just clean up with some alcohol. I tried using alcohol and Goo Gone on the first fender and it took longer to get the adhesive off. It just turned into more “goo” and required a lot more rubbing.

[RoadHammer]

SOunds nice.

You will be posting night time pics of this i hope..

[Y Rider]

I also thought about using stick-on zip tie holders for the mud flap lights but because they will be in a harse environment contantly getting wet I was afraid they would come off so I just used the recommended drain holes. The only thing I did different was place the wire in protective tubing before attaching to the fender.

[cjackg]

After installing several of these, one thing I learned the hard way is that you absolutely must run any new wires on the front together into quick-disconnects so that when the time comes that you have to remove the front-end (frunk) it is simple to disconnect all the add-on lights. I dont understand why these light vendors never mention this!

[daveinva]

FYI, if you don't have a putty knife handy for the Brightsides, in a pinch a butter knife works too (as I learned).

Also, if you're using Posi-Taps, plan out all your front-end lighting mods early, otherwise you'll run out of free wire to connect them to.

Lastly, do NOT drop a Posi-Tap behind the console, you'll never, ever get it back, you'll be doomed to hear it roll around down there forever!

[Phil]

Thanks Dreamer!

I used the 3M adhesive landing pads for the zip-ties under the fender. GREAT idea.

[iSpy]

Go Slow and Be careful! Spyder's finish "seems" resistance to small exposure for short periods of time to acetone. Cleaned area for Brightside and Mudflap light mounting spots in a snap.


Used cjackg's suggestion above, "run any new wires on the front together into quick-disconnects so that when the time comes that you have to remove the front-end (frunk) it is simple to disconnect all the add-on lights."

[spyderrock]

Hey guys just a tip about removing emblems and reflectors, my brother is a professional detailer has been for over 30 years. Him And I both use 40lb fishing line to remove these parts all you need to do is slightly heat the part and slide the fishing line behind and use a sawing motion. Works every time when the part is removed we have a product called GOO-Gone spray it on let it soak in and wipe it off you may have to spray it a few times depends how much adhesive is left behind. I use GOO-Gone to spray on the front of the bike after a long trip to get rid of all the bug carcasses, spray it on let it sit for 5min then use soap and water clean as a whistle.

[M109Dreamer]

Hey guys just a tip about removing emblems and reflectors, my brother is a professional detailer has been for over 30 years. Him And I both use 40lb fishing line to remove these parts all you need to do is slightly heat the part and slide the fishing line behind and use a sawing motion. Works every time when the part is removed we have a product called GOO-Gone spray it on let it soak in and wipe it off you may have to spray it a few times depends how much adhesive is left behind. I use GOO-Gone to spray on the front of the bike after a long trip to get rid of all the bug carcasses, spray it on let it sit for 5min then use soap and water clean as a whistle.

I used Goo-gone once I got the relectors off. It was already 110' in AZ yesturday and the idea or putting the fender in the sun or using a heat gun on the refectors just wasn't in the cards. Good idea, thats the same way I got the stickers off of my 9.

[Riker]

Thanks for the write up

[eddieshep999]

Just fitted Mud flap LED's to my Spyder RT -S 2010 MODEL

Well worth it for the safety feature ref Cars overtaking and not seeing the front wheels sticking out -Just see's the rear Luggage and try to squeeze past thinking it's a normal motorcycle

Fitted mine with extra tubing and another tip - I replaced my 12 Normal fender bolts (6 each side) With Stainless Steel Hex Flange bolts
Size 6mm x 20mm
This should make removing the fender easier if needed due to less corrision with all that the weather can throw at them

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

List of Mods :-
Added Zuno 660 -Garmin kit as supplied on the Spyder RT Limited
LED Bulbs Reversing Lights,Front position lights
HMT - Brake Light
LED – Running lights
LED - Mud Flap lights
Rear extended Mud Flap
Sport Tall Wide Clear Windshield
S/S Grills both sides matching
Bottom Panel S/S Protection
Rubber Tank protector on glove box
Grip Puppies
Power Socket in Switch Cluster
Rear Speaker Switch for passenger On/OFF
Upgraded Front Marine Speakers
Bluetooth On board Radio to Sena SMH10 Headsets

[murphybrown]

Phew after scanning this sure glad I had someone else do it....sounds alot like serious mechanic stuff....aw but I do love 'em and so do others...lots of positive comments. By policeman son says NOW they can see you!!

[Brevet05]

After installing several of these, one thing I learned the hard way is that you absolutely must run any new wires on the front together into quick-disconnects so that when the time comes that you have to remove the front-end (frunk) it is simple to disconnect all the add-on lights. I dont understand why these light vendors never mention this!

In fairness, the Vader Lights I installed from TricLED came with supplied quick disconnects, so at least one light vendor understands the RT!

[AndyIsRiding]

I took the easy way out, wife told me to

Bought all the Brightsides, rear led and switched wiring. Was looking at doing it, she comes out, now remember she is the back seat dryver.
She goes, "how long do you think its going to take you to do it?"

Said, 3-6 hours? She goes, "how many hours will the dealer take to do it?"
3-6 hours?
She leaves, comes back, told me, the dealer said he'd charge 3 hours, lets drive over there.

I'm not allowed to touch her baby
Oh well, I'll finish rewiring my KLR then