|
-
-
MOgang Member & Monster Member
Not good bro. Wish I knew what it is. We will have some good ideas soon no doubt. Sure can ruin a trip though. Hang in there Bob.
-
 Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Well something sure is acting odd... The Missus and I were on a ride to Cooperstown, NY. We stopped for a medication break and upon re-starting, I tried to pull away in 1st, I got a racheting sound and feel. At idle it didn't seem to make any extra noise. I set the parking brake and shut things off and I got the alarm for no parking brake engagement???
Upon restart the engine wouldn't settle into its 1400 rpm idle.. It would race at 2100 to 2300 rpm and then shut down. After a couple of restarts it cleared its head and we continued on our rude. BUT... every stop I had the high rpm shutoff thing going on. I didn't get any more ratcheting from the transmission though...
Once we got home that evening I tried to restart it and got a warning light on the dash... the first of the day...
Does anybody have any idea where I should start looking??   
Were you able to pull any codes from it either while it was running or afterwards?
-
Registered Users
 ACS Problem
I have the ACS with the remote adjustment, when my wife and I ride, the compressor is going on and off, on and off all the time. The book says that it is normal to hear pressurs release or the compressor operating while the engine is running, however it is constantly going on and off.
I pumped it up in my driveway (50psi) over night it is down to Zero. I did this several times and it always looses pressure, it also looses psi within 4 to 5 hours, (with no one on it). While riding, it does this at any of the five settings. Is this normal??? 
[SIGPIC][/S  IGPIC]
Mods= luggage rack, rear trunk shelf & Mirror
-
Originally Posted by Scooter
I have the ACS with the remote adjustment, when my wife and I ride, the compressor is going on and off, on and off all the time. The book says that it is normal to hear pressurs release or the compressor operating while the engine is running, however it is constantly going on and off.
I pumped it up in my driveway (50psi) over night it is down to Zero. I did this several times and it always looses pressure, it also looses psi within 4 to 5 hours, (with no one on it). While riding, it does this at any of the five settings. Is this normal???
Check out this service bulletin
SERVICE BULLETIN
2010-15, REAR AIR SUSPENSION LEAKAGE INSPECTION
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
-
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Well something sure is acting odd... The Missus and I were on a ride to Cooperstown, NY. We stopped for a medication break and upon re-starting, I tried to pull away in 1st, I got a racheting sound and feel. At idle it didn't seem to make any extra noise. I set the parking brake and shut things off and I got the alarm for no parking brake engagement???
Upon restart the engine wouldn't settle into its 1400 rpm idle.. It would race at 2100 to 2300 rpm and then shut down. After a couple of restarts it cleared its head and we continued on our rude. BUT... every stop I had the high rpm shutoff thing going on. I didn't get any more ratcheting from the transmission though...
Once we got home that evening I tried to restart it and got a warning light on the dash... the first of the day...
Does anybody have any idea where I should start looking??
The ratcheting thing would make me think Front sprocket.
I would check that out first, If it is it's better to catch it before it takes out the shaft spines.
-
Should I pull them out and lube em up with some of that di-electric grease?
Speaking of grease... the engine oil level was low also; once I got to digging around under the Tupperware... 
-
Motorbike Professor
See your dealer. 
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
-
dialectric grease
Somewhere in my shop manual it said never to put such grease on the relay pins. The warning was pretty dire and said something about a pale horse.
-
Very Active Member
Sorry to hear about your "glitch". This problem sounds just the opposite of what I posted was happening to me--funny tranny noise but would not accelerate or go into higher gear.
If it happens again--or persists--recommend seeing the service department.
My problem just went away--as in the computer picked up a bug or something.
Dealer could not find anything wrong with mine.
Let us know what transpires with yours.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 07-11-2011 at 11:06 AM.
-
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
I'd start by unplugging one at a time and plugging them back in.
Dielectric grease is an insulator and on these kinds of connections I would avoid it. It's great for making sure the boots come off spark plugs and on some type of push on connectors to seal out water vapor.
That's an opinion and maybe someone else can shed more light on that question.
I Agree,,
Dielectric Grease;;
It can stop the flow of current in some cases.
-
-
-
Very Active Member
I will turn the volume down--sorry about that.
-
Registered Users
[SIGPIC][/S IGPIC]
Mods= luggage rack, rear trunk shelf & Mirror
-
-
Motorbike Professor
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
-
Very Active Member
I believe that the EBD brake failure has to do with the parking brake set up. I would re-boot again and see what happens. I got that on Saturday when I got in to much of a hurry to engage the electronic brake and shut off Spyder. It went away when I shut off the Spyder and re-started.
-
Registered Users
The only reference I can find in the codes say "EBD Fault and the exclamation mark.
This, it suggests relates to an EBD fault (duh) or a related part.
It also suggests that there is NO EBD operation and that rear wheel lock up may occur under heavy braking.
There is also a suggestion that the rear wheel speed sensor is disconnected or faulty.
ie. there is no connection in the system betwen the front and rear brakes to proportion pressure between front and back to stop lock up or other nasties from happening
It should be in conjunction with other codes
Hope this helps
cheers
Pete
2011 RTS SE5 Vyper Red, high led brake light, cb/gps/headsets
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
Uh-oh...
Reply With Quote
So I'll be unplugging and plugging while dry! 