Windshield Arm Broken

[reverendg]

It seems like since the problem is related to the windshield torqueing around and cracking the bracket, a better bracket design would include a heim joint (ball end) at the windshield, and some spacers to make up the gap? Then when the windshield torques around on rough roads the ball can wiggle instead of pressuring the bracket. Something more in common with the sway bar ends Baja Ron offers?
The spacers between the heim joint and the windshield brackets could be wholly or partially made of rubber tubing as well, to allow a degree of lateral movement with shock absorbing capability. Cup washers or springs could be used as well, but simpler is usually better.

[rtmario]

The main problem is the 3 holding pins with circlips on 2010-11 RT models, many broke in Québec due to the quality of our roads , the pins with circlips became realy loose in the bushing and the shaking of the windshield did put a real stress on the center bracket . BRP did replace the pins on 2012 model years and later . I did replace , on numerous 2010 and 2011 RT a lot loose pins and circlips for the pins and scews kits ...problem solve.
The shaking and looseness of windshield = broken bracket sooner or later .

[Mickay]

And which physics law you would be referring to?

Try removing your windshield and see if you can broke the 100mhp.

[ThreeWheels]

They're not available as a separate piece...
Unless you look to the aftermarket; or a really good machine shop!

Ron, You've done so well with Heim Joint Links, Anti-Sway bars and Spark Plug Wires.
Any interest in this challenge ?
I know I would buy one in a New York Minute.
Make that a New York Second.

Just asking......................

[jthornton]

I've been considering making a repair/reinforcement for the center bracket if there is enough interest in this.

JT

[jcthorne]

I've been considering making a repair/reinforcement for the center bracket if there is enough interest in this.

JT

I'd buy two and install them just so I WONT have the problem when its not convenient. Things never break when it's convenient.

[eddieshep999]

I've been considering making a repair/reinforcement for the center bracket if there is enough interest in this.

JT

I would be interested if it was easy to fit and would not need to reset the screen, Otherwise I would even be happier with a manual adjustment like the one on the ST esp if all the fittings were in Stainless Steel due to the exposure of the fittings to all that nature can throw at us

[Magdave]

Yes, please.

[ThreeWheels]

I've been considering making a repair/reinforcement for the center bracket if there is enough interest in this.

JT

I vote yes !

[jthornton]

It looks a little tight but I think I can make something to work...

JT

[jcthorne]

It looks a little tight but I think I can make something to work...

JT

Looking forward to see what you come up with.

[finless]

It looks a little tight but I think I can make something to work...

JT

Let me know if you want a crash test dummy for install and testing. I will even video it!

Put me on the list for one please.

Bob

[jpbuch9309]

Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?41346-quot-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners

[jpbuch9309]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners


Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.

[Questions]

Check out my threads on the same problem "2010 Windshield Problem". These arms are breaking all over the place and BRP should pick up the tab. I am out of warranty and trying to get my dealer to get BRP to at least supply the parts. If you read my thread someone said the arm itself cannot be replaced the whole motor assembly has to be purchased at close to &700.00 not including labor. We should petition BRP to own up to this known design problem.

This is my second dogbone.

It's starting to break.

I need to find out if it's covered by the BEST Warranty

[gypsy_100]

I've been considering making a repair/reinforcement for the center bracket if there is enough interest in this.
JT

Please do. I'd buy in a flash!

Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?41346-quot-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners

My experience is that w/s position made no difference. Mine failed (600 mi from home) and I never run with the shield all the way down, resting on its stops. Your price is about right, the part keeps going up every year, but note that BRP flat rate is only 1/2 hour. There have been comments in this forum where dealers quoted much longer times. The dealer that did mine put in the warranty claim for 1/2 hour -- all that he was allowed. That's what the flat rate manual shows.

[dmdahnert]

I'm at 17,000+ miles and still under extended warranty when I spotted the cracking. Talked with my mechanic and they have replaced a few assemblies at the ride's cost, not covered under warranty. When I mentioned others I knew of, he stated BRP does not think it is a problem so they aren't covering the fix. On the 2010s, he said you need the entire assembly and that is around $200; he said you can't get just the arm that breaks. I used JB Weld and so far seems to be holding fairly well but I'm watching these posts closely for a more permanent fix whether supplied by BRP or not. Rode with a group back in early June and we had to pull over one time when the leader on his 2012 RT had the arm break...a little disconcerting at 65 MPH according to him.

[gypsy_100]

I'm at 17,000+ miles and still under extended warranty when I spotted the cracking. Talked with my mechanic and they have replaced a few assemblies at the ride's cost, not covered under warranty. When I mentioned others I knew of, he stated BRP does not think it is a problem so they aren't covering the fix. On the 2010s, he said you need the entire assembly and that is around $200; he said you can't get just the arm that breaks. I used JB Weld and so far seems to be holding fairly well but I'm watching these posts closely for a more permanent fix whether supplied by BRP or not. Rode with a group back in early June and we had to pull over one time when the leader on his 2012 RT had the arm break...a little disconcerting at 65 MPH according to him.

As I said above, mine was replaced under warranty no problem at all. Not BEST but the original warranty. So I can't vouch for BEST. For 2011 and 2012 the part no. is 705004774 and lists for $604. Plus 1/2 hour labor. For 2010 the part no. is 705003266 and is shown as unavailable. Go figure.

Yeah, when that thing breaks, it's "disconcerting". The shield swings out and up and then settles against the top of the dash. At moderate speeds, it directs all the air flow right at your neck (I'm 6'2") -- noisy as all getout. At higher speeds it's pretty wild and when a semi passes you, that thing really flaps around from the turbulence. We had to ride 200 mi that way, fortunately mostly on the Natchez Trace which was a nice 50mph, no trucks, and little traffic. But not fun at all. My passenger was extremely uncomfortable, waiting for the worst to happen, whatever that might be.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

.......I have just finished making my first " re-placement " center arm bracket for the RT windshield ......I believe it is strong enough to tow my car. I just finished painting it so it hasn't been put back on my RT yet. I need to establish a procedure for re-mounting the arm and how it needs to be positioned so the windshield will operate within it's normal range.......More to follow.......Mikeguyver

[jcthorne]

I'm at 17,000+ miles and still under extended warranty when I spotted the cracking. Talked with my mechanic and they have replaced a few assemblies at the ride's cost, not covered under warranty. When I mentioned others I knew of, he stated BRP does not think it is a problem so they aren't covering the fix. On the 2010s, he said you need the entire assembly and that is around $200; he said you can't get just the arm that breaks. I used JB Weld and so far seems to be holding fairly well but I'm watching these posts closely for a more permanent fix whether supplied by BRP or not. Rode with a group back in early June and we had to pull over one time when the leader on his 2012 RT had the arm break...a little disconcerting at 65 MPH according to him.

Have no idea why your dealer would tell you this. The broken mount IS covered by warranty. If your dealer says otherwise you need to contact BRP directly. Its a defect, its broken. That is the basic premise of the warranty. Why on earth would you think otherwise. The bike cannot be ridden safely once the arm is broken. There have been a number of instances posted where BRP paid to warrant this repair. Its your dealer than needs fixing.

[jcthorne]

.......I have just finished making my first " re-placement " center arm bracket for the RT windshield ......I believe it is strong enough to tow my car. I just finished painting it so it hasn't been put back on my RT yet. I need to establish a procedure for re-mounting the arm and how it needs to be positioned so the windshield will operate within it's normal range.......More to follow.......Mikeguyver

Look forward to seeing what you came up with. Let me know if I can post the photos for you....

[wd8ajj]

There is a recall on the 2014 arm. The dealer ordered me a new one for my 20134 Not sure on other years

[Bob Denman]

Recall?
Or Technical Service Bulletin?

[Bob Denman]

.......I have just finished making my first " re-placement " center arm bracket for the RT windshield ......I believe it is strong enough to tow my car. I just finished painting it so it hasn't been put back on my RT yet. I need to establish a procedure for re-mounting the arm and how it needs to be positioned so the windshield will operate within it's normal range.......More to follow.......Mikeguyver

Michael...
If you don't figure out how to post pictures soon...

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Michael...
If you don't figure out how to post pictures soon...

.........However in the whole scheme of things a pic is not important ......The elements of the cure are .....I made two side plates ( of steel ) custom ground the ends of these to fit into/on the factory cast ends .......then I wrapped the entire " arm " with approx. 7 1/2 in. of 1/16 steel strap.......and then slowly welded the plates to the strap.....First one side , then I inserted the OEM arm , then put on the other plate and weld that....................I would BET MY LIFE that this will not break...............Prior to painting it , I actually put it in my vise and hit it a few times with a hammer ..............scuffed the metal slightly ..........but that was all it did ............It's going on my new RT to re-place the OEM piece. I'm not going to wait for that to break, which from the sounds of this thread there is high likely-hood ..............Mikeguyver