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  1. #26
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    Ouch!
    Please let us know, and good luck!
    Last edited by Bob Denman; 11-24-2013 at 09:35 AM.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  2. #27
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Ouch!
    Please let us know, and food luck!
    "Food luck" ????? Is that like with twelve you get eggroll?
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
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  3. #28
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    The module is covered under BEST. It includes a new dogbone window support, a new motor and three new connectors for the windshield supports.
    Supposedly, these parts are updated design, even updated from the 2013.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  4. #29
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    Wondering when the aftermarket vendors will come with a replacement for this part?? I was thinking of it while on some very bad roads this WE ( already broke once! ) a part made of heavy duty nylon or SS would be perfect (maybe change the side ones too?).
    I love wrappings, LED lights (on someone's else bike!!) but why not coming with parts really needed ( computer links to tune the Spyder? Me thinks that a little less lean there will be less heat; more power assistance (like the 2014); nanies less intrusive ( again like the 2014); new dog bone; get rid of the 100mph speed limit etc).

  5. #30
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    The 100 mph speed limit is set by physics, not by computer
    DAMHIKT
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    The 100 mph speed limit is set by physics, not by computer
    DAMHIKT
    And which physics law you would be referring to?

  7. #32
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prmurat View Post
    And which physics law you would be referring to?
    Air resistance.
    Trying to go fast on the Spyder is like pushing a barn door through a hurricane.
    You can get it up past 100 MPH. But it's tough, I'll grant you that.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    Air resistance.
    Trying to go fast on the Spyder is like pushing a barn door through a hurricane.
    You can get it up past 100 MPH. But it's tough, I'll grant you that.
    Same must apply to a lot of bikes/cars etc... There is a speed limitation on the RT, like it or not. Even on the 2014 at exactly 100mph on the speedo 98mph on the GPS...

  9. #34
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prmurat View Post
    Same must apply to a lot of bikes/cars etc... There is a speed limitation on the RT, like it or not. Even on the 2014 at exactly 100mph on the speedo 98mph on the GPS...
    There is no speed limiter on the Spyder, only a rev limiter. The stock Spyder will not even reach redline (rev limit) in high gear...it just runs out of horsepower. It is a matter of wind resistance, or more correctly drag, which increase exponentially as the speed increases. All vehicles hit the limits of their power to overcome the drag at some point. The same model production vehicle will run out of steam at approximately the same spot as any other one of the same model. It is not a conspiracy, no matter what you wish to believe, it is merely a matter of physics and the amount of power provided by the engineers.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
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  10. #35
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    This is so untrue.... The 2014 running out of steam at 5200rpm (100mph speedo)??? Funny I saw 7000rpm on any gears very often... And being on an hill, up or down, or a flat is not changing anything either, nor being one or two up?? Wind direction is not a factor either? 100mph (on the speedo AGAIN) is a magic aerodynamic number?? Too funny!!

  11. #36
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    Default Looking for a windshield actuator unit.

    Does anyone in the USA know where I may be able to source a used windshield actuator module. My 2011 RT broke its arm and I replaced it with a stronger one made here in Australia but the mechanism itself seems to be damaged - a couple of broken teeth and can't move it up or down. I really don't want to pay the price for a new actuator which only comes as a complete unit, so any suggestions/help would be most welcome.

    Robert

  12. #37
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollingstone View Post
    Does anyone in the USA know where I may be able to source a used windshield actuator module. My 2011 RT broke its arm and I replaced it with a stronger one made here in Australia but the mechanism itself seems to be damaged - a couple of broken teeth and can't move it up or down. I really don't want to pay the price for a new actuator which only comes as a complete unit, so any suggestions/help would be most welcome.

    Robert
    .


    OK, I had the window arm replaced.
    The new one looks EXACTLY like the other one that has already broken TWICE

    I'd be interested in the source of this new improved one, even if it's from Australia.
    I also heard that this mechanism will no longer be covered under the BEST warranty because it's a body part.
    There is a slight possibility that BRP may begin supplying this arm as a separate piece instead of part of the entire module.

    I may try to get an arm manufactured out of stainless steel.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  13. #38
    Very Active Member Pandy's Avatar
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    Default By coincidence,yesterday

    My own @!$%& windshield arm broke again. Looks like the weld didn't penetrate. So, speaking of weld, it's JB Weld and a hose clamp for now. I'll replace it after I get other mods done.
    Disgusted,Patrick
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  14. #39
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    Default Are Arms usually in bottom position?

    Has anyone done a poll to see if the breakage is position related? A buddy's '11 broke recently and it cost a bunch to replace; he didn't have Best, but BRP kicked in with some help.
    Anyway, someone suggested the breaks were caused mostly on WS that usually are full down and resting on the "stop" which increases vibrations, etc, etc.
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  15. #40
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    After mine was replaced; I started taking it up off the stops, and letting it ride there...
    There has been a lot of reports of these breaking...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Has anyone done a poll to see if the breakage is position related? A buddy's '11 broke recently and it cost a bunch to replace; he didn't have Best, but BRP kicked in with some help.
    Anyway, someone suggested the breaks were caused mostly on WS that usually are full down and resting on the "stop" which increases vibrations, etc, etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    After mine was replaced; I started taking it up off the stops, and letting it ride there...
    There has been a lot of reports of these breaking...
    Mine broke last month at less than 30K miles. I rarely rode with the shield down on the stops. Not saying it couldn't be related but that was my experience. New arm assembly is same part number as original (2011) and looks just the same.

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  17. #42
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Here is the worst (best) part.
    My mechanism was replaced under the BEST warranty
    Rumor has it BRP is going to stop including this in the BEST program, saying it's a body part.
    The good news is, if BRP is going to stop warrantying it, they will start carrying the arm as a separate piece. Right now you have to buy the whole arm and motor as a single module.
    I'm still going to take some time this winter and see if I can get an arm made out of Stainless.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  18. #43
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    A body piece???
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  19. #44
    Active Member bitsy224m's Avatar
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    Default broken dogbone arm on windhield

    The arm that is mentioned here broke on my 2011 rt....Best warranty will not cover this....the dealer said I have to pay for the whole unit.....that they cannot replace just the arm.....this is a cost of $800.00 including labor and with the dealer taking off $100.00 for me.....
    has anybody just replaced the arm and if so where did you get it.....I cannot find one online....

  20. #45
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    They're not available as a separate piece...
    Unless you look to the aftermarket; or a really good machine shop!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by prmurat View Post
    This is so untrue.... The 2014 running out of steam at 5200rpm (100mph speedo)??? Funny I saw 7000rpm on any gears very often... And being on an hill, up or down, or a flat is not changing anything either, nor being one or two up?? Wind direction is not a factor either? 100mph (on the speedo AGAIN) is a magic aerodynamic number?? Too funny!!
    REALLY???
    In sixth gear; each 1,000 rpm is worth just about 20 mph...
    So; were you REALLY seeing 140 mph???
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitsy224m View Post
    The arm that is mentioned here broke on my 2011 rt....Best warranty will not cover this....the dealer said I have to pay for the whole unit.....that they cannot replace just the arm.....this is a cost of $800.00 including labor and with the dealer taking off $100.00 for me.....
    has anybody just replaced the arm and if so where did you get it.....I cannot find one online....
    My unit was replaced under warranty. But the list price was $573 -- I see it's now up to $604 in the latest parts manual. Part number 705004774. When mine was replaced, the dealer only charged 1/2 hour labor to the warranty claim. He said that's all he is allowed for that job. I looked up the flat rate from BRP and that's correct. BRP says it's a half-hour job. So $800 with a $100 discount is a bit of an overcharge. Should be $604 plus a half-hour not counting any discounts. Still crazy expensive but at least a little better than $800.

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  23. #48
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    Unhappy Windshield Braking

    Today I had my 5th(!) windshield break since I bought my 2011 RT (had a Spyder Sportsmodel 2009 1st). Needless to say this is way too frustrating! I am almost at 20,000 miles and drive all year round unless snow is still on the roads here. A friend directed me to this forum to show I am NOT alone. -If not for that and many other minor problems all covered by the warranty the Spyder is pretty cool. I have a towel stuffed into windshield till it's fixed. Maybe try the fix I saw on this site
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  24. #49
    Active Member bitsy224m's Avatar
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    Default 2 1/2 hr.

    Quote Originally Posted by gypsy_100 View Post
    My unit was replaced under warranty. But the list price was $573 -- I see it's now up to $604 in the latest parts manual. Part number 705004774. When mine was replaced, the dealer only charged 1/2 hour labor to the warranty claim. He said that's all he is allowed for that job. I looked up the flat rate from BRP and that's correct. BRP says it's a half-hour job. So $800 with a $100 discount is a bit of an overcharge. Should be $604 plus a half-hour not counting any discounts. Still crazy expensive but at least a little better than $800.
    The dealership told me that it would take 2 1/2 hrs to replace the windhield arm unit....when i did my temp repair and had the tupperware off there are maybe 6 or 7 bolts holding the unit on so as i see it the dealership is ripping me off....i guess i need to make a visit befor they start working on my spyder and place a complaint....

  25. #50
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    Vicki your dealer is trying to screw you. Take this thread to them and show them that this gas been an ongoing issue since at least 2011. I had the bracket replaced under BEST warranty on my 2010 RTS by Pitbull Powersports. Cost to me $50 deductible
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