Brake Failure message

[GaryTheBadger]

Now it's my turn to ask for help.

10k miles across 2.5 years, 2008 SE-5, stock powertrain. Three weeks ago, got "Brake Failure" scrolling message for the first time ever. NOT in limp-home mode, no other codes, could not make it go away until dealer hooked up BUDS, went through brake bleed program (didn't crack open any bleeder valves), the code went away. Cost me $60.

Three weeks later, same thing. Have an appointment with the dealer, but he has no specific ideas of the cause.

What I seek is anyone who's had this failure code and what was the remedy. I don't want to repeatedly pay just to get the code reset without finding the underlying fault.

The manual says low fluid (its not), leak (none), or faulty sensor (which one?). By the way, the brakes are working fine.

Thank you for your help

[ThreeWheels]

I had the same problem and it was low brake fluid. I know you said it's not in your case, but these machines are VERY sensitive to low fluid. I think mine took about half an ounce total. Sorry, that's all I got.

Now it's my turn to ask for help.

10k miles across 2.5 years, 2008 SE-5, stock powertrain. Three weeks ago, got "Brake Failure" scrolling message for the first time ever. NOT in limp-home mode, no other codes, could not make it go away until dealer hooked up BUDS, went through brake bleed program (didn't crack open any bleeder valves), the code went away. Cost me $60.

Three weeks later, same thing. Have an appointment with the dealer, but he has no specific ideas of the cause.

What I seek is anyone who's had this failure code and what was the remedy. I don't want to repeatedly pay just to get the code reset without finding the underlying fault.

The manual says low fluid (its not), leak (none), or faulty sensor (which one?). By the way, the brakes are working fine.

Thank you for your help

[sabunim5]

Don't know if they are good ones, but here goes.
1. Are you an early enough addition to have undergone the brake reservoir cap swap?? Of course if you were supposed to do it and did not, it probably would have been problematic before now.
2. On the 08 models, like my PE, I have to fill the reservoir so full to avoid a brake failure warning that the reservoir will leak. This leaking can only be prevented by being sure that both cap vents are centered pointing at the rear of the Spyder. This puts the vents at their high point. It stunk figuring that out. During the process brake fluid ate the paint off part of my frame. It is a little bit of a pain to get the vents in the proper position, but it solves the problem for me.
I hope your solution is that simple.

[MMcc]

For me it was the rear brake sensor. Fluid was checked and OK. 2008 SE-5

[GaryTheBadger]

The caps were swapped a long time ago. I always point the vents rearward. Yup, they still leak, I've always had paper towel wrapped around the caps to absorbe up the leaked fluid before it damages anything.

Question for ThreeWheels - when you topped off the fluid, did the "Brake Failure" code go away by itself, or did you still have to have BUDS reset the code?

[NancysToy]

The caps were swapped a long time ago. I always point the vents rearward. Yup, they still leak, I've always had paper towel wrapped around the caps to absorbe up the leaked fluid before it damages anything.

Question for ThreeWheels - when you topped off the fluid, did the "Brake Failure" code go away by itself, or did you still have to have BUDS reset the code?

It should go away by itself once the float level rises.

[GaryTheBadger]

Then its not fluid level, they're very topped off and the error message did not clear.

MMcc- To clarify, do you mean the anti-lock sensors? (the ones that are close to, and point towards, the toothed gear)

[ThreeWheels]

The caps were swapped a long time ago. I always point the vents rearward. Yup, they still leak, I've always had paper towel wrapped around the caps to absorbe up the leaked fluid before it damages anything.

Question for ThreeWheels - when you topped off the fluid, did the "Brake Failure" code go away by itself, or did you still have to have BUDS reset the code?

Brake light went out on it's own.

[MMcc]

Yes, I used the wrong term. It was the ABS sensor that was replaced. First time it happened they said it was out of adjustment ( improper gap). Thought that they corrected that but brake failure scroll came back in less than 50 miles. BRP said replace it this time.

[lonnibdd]

I REALLY REALLY hope dealer wouldnt keep charging you for same code resets that would not be cool at all once MAYBE thats a big MAYBE twice after that its time to get down and find cause boys? Hope you get it resolved.

[skeetshooter]

Mine did the same thing on a trip Yellowstone last year. I checked everything i could think of.I wiggled the E brake cable at wheel,pushing it back, light went out .Light has never come on again.I think the cable was stuck just enough to make light come on.

[Firefly]

I had the same thing. Bled the brakes and it went away --- only to come back a few days before my trip to TN even though the brakes worked fine.

Stopped at a dealer in Dry Ridge near Cincinnati -- the hooked it to buds- cleared the code-- topped off the fluid--- tested brake pressure and sent me on my way.

No charge at all.

Not sure why your dealer is charging you for clearing the error.

[AMTJIM]

I have the current caps as well. Many people(mainly sportbikes/track riders) wrap motorcycle reservoirs to reduce vibes and foaming. I wrap my lids to do that and absorb fluid trails. I still got some faint evidence, bubbled some paint. My brake symbol comes up occasionally when riding down from elevation expediently. A quick twist of the cap restores to normal. I don't like the location of the reservoir or the lack of security the hoses had, I think it sees to much lash. I changed the hardware a little and added some rubber washer, also secured the hose lines.

[Desert Spyder]

I had the same situation with my GS. Turned out to be low brake pressure/air in the lines although the Master Cylinder was topped. Thats why my brakes worked better on the second pump.

[SpyderWolf]

The only time I had this error message appear was when the 10 AMP fuse in the front fuse box was blown, and I got on the brakes hard. I am sure you would have already noticed this though as you wouldn't have any taillights working.

Best of luck getting it sorted out.

[Firefly]

My 2008 GS has never leaked fluid and I do have the caps with the "v" cut. Dealer shouldn't be charging just for clearing the code.

[WrapFactory]

I kept having this issue with only a few hundred miles on my spyder, I topped it off then ended up over-filling light wouldn't go out. I ended up pulling the sensor out of the bottom and zip tied it up out of the way, 3k miles later no problems!

[FlynBryan]

I had the same thing. Bled the brakes and it went away --- only to come back a few days before my trip to TN even though the brakes worked fine.

Stopped at a dealer in Dry Ridge near Cincinnati -- the hooked it to buds- cleared the code-- topped off the fluid--- tested brake pressure and sent me on my way.

No charge at all.

Not sure why your dealer is charging you for clearing the error.

I was the guy at PVM Powersports in Florence ky. that worked on your bike. I am glad I was able to help you out. Hope you had a great trip. If your ever back in Kentucky stop by.

[coz]

this is coz ,i have the silver 08 gs that was in a few weeks ago, the one with the stickers and skulls and duct taped lights. its very different now very clean and de-junked . it cleaned up very well. welcome to the sight and thanks for your help.

[SteveMac]

I was the guy at PVM Powersports in Florence ky. that worked on your bike. I am glad I was able to help you out. Hope you had a great trip. If your ever back in Kentucky stop by.

Great to see you here on the board reading and posting. More dealers and techs should be here IMHO. Very cool.

[GaryTheBadger]

This is a follow-up to the original post that started this thread:

Dealer did full brake bleed process this time, including opening bleeder valves, not just computer steps. Technician said he got very, very few tiny, tiny bubbles. Brake Failure scrolling error is gone. Time will tell if its a permanent fix, as it took a couple hundred miles between the 1st and 2nd failure. And of course all through this, the brakes work fine. They had it four work-days, and I'm out another $60.

[RoadHammer]

For what it's worth, the tech suggested to me that i jack up the rear of the spyder and open up my filler caps, air rises and gets out of the system. I do this periodically now if i know my ride wont be moving for a few days or more.

[GA-SPYDER]

What about brake pedal excessive travel? It would then make the overtravel switch on the pedal.