Front Spark Plug Removal on RT???

[dvandal]

Is the 2013 RT as difficult as the previous years?

I would think that the procedure is the same.

[SPYD3R]

WHAT IS THE AVERAGE MILEAGE CHANGE OF A SET OF PLUGS.....?
OR DO MOST PEOPLE CHANGE THEM ONCE A YEAR REGARDLESS OF MILEAGE...?

[bruiser]

I was able to get the air box lower half out without removing the support. I did bend the panel attaching "ear" down on the support. I can't explain the full procedure I used. I guess anyone who has worked on older fighters and bombers can do things. I've been told that removing the glove box helps too. I didn't do that either. I looked at the manual on removing the support and it doesn't look too hard and there are more than 5 bolts holding it. I'm going to be changing the plugs on my '12 RT soon. I'll see how that one goes.

[bruiser]

Look at the service guide. I think on the 997 it's around 12,000. I don't have mine at hand so I can't say for sure.

[jtoro1]

Look at the service guide. I think on the 997 it's around 12,000. I don't have mine at hand so I can't say for sure.

Do 2012 RTS have irdium spark plugs and how long will there last

[bruiser]

Yes, they are Iridium/platinum (Laser Series) The ones that Ron sells are all Iridium (IX Series).

[jwulf74]

While you have your air box out to do the plugs, I highly reccomend leaving it out and putting JT's filter in instead.

[dadof4]

I'm getting an alignment done which means taking the frunk off. While they're at it I'm having the plugs changed to iridium, so I won't ever have to worry about plugs again.

I don't know anything about changing the plugs but if removing the frunk, or entire front end, makes it easier here is a video on doing it in less than 13 minutes. I found this video after spending over 3 hours removing mine. Ugh!

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NvGbgxB...%3DNvGbgxB14PQ

[lyonsden]

WHAT IS THE AVERAGE MILEAGE CHANGE OF A SET OF PLUGS.....?
OR DO MOST PEOPLE CHANGE THEM ONCE A YEAR REGARDLESS OF MILEAGE...?

I have over 18k on my 2011 and still going strong. I think I'll wait till they act up.

[bruiser]

I have over 18k on my 2011 and still going strong. I think I'll wait till they act up.

That's why I changed them on the wife's bike. The front cylinder went down. Because the dealer only changed the rear plug.

[SpyderGirl]

Just finished. Took 3.5 hours. Not bad. Taking that frame piece and swinging it out of the way made a huge difference. No cussing this time.

[AbNormy]

Got just over 34k on my 12 RT and my dealer put BajaRons iridiums in @ 14k so Im wondering how much longer I can go on these. Still running strong just hoping they're not seized what concerns me. Thanks for all your guidance

[yamahog]

I did the plug and wire change once with the factory air box, I swore never again, my plugs fouled at 12000 miles, 5 min on rear and 4 to 6 Hr's on front, plus at least another hr for wires, I still have night mares LOL but no more, thanks JT for the wonderful air filter kit it is worth every penny about 30 min with plug wire change now

[yamahog]

I agree with Rhino79, it can be done from the LH side for both plugs.
Caveat, the smaller you arms the better.
You only have to remove the LH middle side panel, LH mirror, LH top side panel, and the plastic sheild under the top side panel.
At this point you can get to the rear plug, after changing that plug if you take a flashlight and shine it over the front cylinder you can see the plug wire for the front plug.
Before reaching in you may need to tuck some connectors that reside over the front cylinder up out of the way, this will make it easier to get your arm in.
Reaching across the front cylinder you can pull the plug wire for the front plug (hopefully grease was used so that it is not overly difficult to pull off), next using a STUBBED rachet you can then remove the plug.
From this side you also have access to the distributer and you can fish the front plug wire out for inspection (I used a 18 gauge wire fed through to fish the wire back after inspection, there is a tie rap that the plug wire goes through on the far side, but it is loose and easy (within reason) to guide the plug wire back through using the guide line wire.
Like a said, the smaller the arms the better and use of a stubbed rachet is almost needed. I didn't have one, but wish I did, the job was still not that bad and after the first one I feel that I can changed both plugs within an hour.
One other thing that will help someone who does it, is to keep in mind that when reaching across to put the plug back in the socket you need to angle it back in toward the cylinder so that you hit the hole. It took me a couple of attempts, but finally got it in.

One note on taking my front plug out, I have been noticing a miss under heavy load. When I went to remove the front plug with the rachet I was expecting to give it a reasonable wrenching for it to come loose, well it was already loose! It wasn't rattling loose, but I did not have to use any force to get it to start turning. The plugs them shelves actually looked pretty good (I had about 10,000 miles on them and they are the second set, first replaced at approx. 12,000 miles) they are whitish to grayish in color and no visible signs of blackening or improper burn.

Glad that method worked for you but my arm was to short and hand to old and fat to reach it LOL.

[oldman]

Had the iridium plugs install in one of my past bikes. First run of hundred miles had to limp home on one cylinder then it died. Check spark good. Took a lawnmower plug put in the first cylinder that died.
The bike started took to dealer got refund and regular plugs. I will not use them again.