Or in lieu of a trailer for short trips try this Luggage / Cooler Carrier CLICK
I used it this weekend. Frunk was full and we tossed a couple of small bags on and strapped them down for a weekend trip. Doesn't interfere with lights at all as long as you don't overload.
Originally Posted by jedd
Thanks Gentlemen very helpful indeed I like the E-Bay alternative.
Thanks Gentlemen very helpful indeed I like the E-Bay alternative.
Now to decide if I'm old enough to pull a trailer
Jim
I bought one of these, and very happy with it. I don't pull a trailer with it, but it did what I wanted it to. Easy to install, and seems to be very firm.
Last edited by Blue Star; 06-08-2011 at 12:23 PM.
Reason: added to post
Is it Friday yet? ... Oh yeah, I forgot. I'm retired
Past bikes
2010 RS - Sold
2012 RT - Sold
2014 RT - Testing completed
2016 F3-T Audio package - Sold
I have the factory RT hitch and an aftermarket trailer. Is there an adapter that converts the plug on the Spyder to the 4-pin set-up on the trailer. Surely there is.....I hope.
Thanks
You will need a powered 5 wire to 4 wire converter, Hopkins makes one. When I did mine, I got a 4 wire flat car side connecter with mounting holes in it, took the extension included with the converter, and built a harness long enough to go from the tailight area forward to where the wires come down for the rear wheel sensors, then along the swing arm on the muffler side to the back - drill and tap #8-32 holes to mount the plug, heat shrink on the splices, split plastic tube over that, tie it down and go.
I have the factory RT hitch and an aftermarket trailer. Is there an adapter that converts the plug on the Spyder to the 4-pin set-up on the trailer. Surely there is.....I hope.
Thanks
You will have to make your own adapter, using the BRP Trailer Tongue Harness, or the matching Deutsch connector and pins. Most people have had the best luck with adding separate turn signals to the 4-wire trailer, converting it to 5-wire. Converters don't seen to work with the RT trailer module. The 2010 Trailer harness works well in that case, and it can even be directly wired into the trailer instead of using it as the basis of an adapter. The 2011 RT-622 trailer is a 4-wire with a nine-pin connector, so it is likely that using the 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness will work without the separate turn signals, but I know of nobody who has tried this approach yet.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
The EBAY trailer hitch mounts to the swing arm..Any troubles with that?..I'm confused on the 5 wire to the 4 wire question..Is this the same way if i want to wire a 2009 rs to an aftermarket trailer?
Last edited by cyclelover63; 06-30-2011 at 11:28 PM.
according to the install instructions, you have to remove the axle bolt. do you not have to re-set belt tension after this install or am I missing something ?
according to the install instructions, you have to remove the axle bolt. do you not have to re-set belt tension after this install or am I missing something ?
You do not remove or loosen the axle with the BRP hitch, you merely remove the cotter key and insert the additional hitch bolt through the hollow axle. If an aftermarket hitch requires loosening or removing the rear axle, you will need to seat the axle against the adjusters before tightening. After that you should check tracking and tension just to be sure nothing moved.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
according to the install instructions, you have to remove the axle bolt. do you not have to re-set belt tension after this install or am I missing something ?
Yes, that is true. You do have to remove the axle. Nice hitch BTW. I like mine. Especially the price.
Originally Posted by NancysToy
You do not remove or loosen the axle with the BRP hitch, you merely remove the cotter key and insert the additional hitch bolt through the hollow axle. If an aftermarket hitch requires loosening or removing the rear axle, you will need to seat the axle against the adjusters before tightening. After that you should check tracking and tension just to be sure nothing moved.
Yes, this is true also. I just took my GS/RS in for a belt tension check after I installed the hitch and adjusted the belt afterward. I was way over on the tension.
Love my
Statistics show that most motorcycle accidents are caused by a defective nut holding the handlbars.