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  1. #26
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SPYDERPOPS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfjames View Post
    Would this work on my 2009 RS SE5?
    We do make the air management system, however it makes all of the hot air go out the vent and under the body. This keeps your right foot from roasting with your foot on the stock peg and brake pedal. Without the air mansgement we have discovered that the heat when either going slow or stopped can be unbearable on the right foot. By adding HWY pegs you can at least get your foot in the moving air where when holding the brake it's not an option.



  2. #27
    Registered Users taggtr's Avatar
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    Installed mine this morning and went riding today in 100+ AZ temps! Amazing difference! Was pretty east to install including the removal of the plate underneath! Looks sweet too!

  3. #28
    Very Active Member freebob's Avatar
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    Default RT heat shield

    Harvey, I installed Shield yesterday and heat on ankle area is 100% Improved, Rode today here and outside temp still in the 90's...and
    I was comfortable no excessive heat on ankle area...Thanks..


    Freebob...

  4. #29
    Very Active Member IWN2RYD's Avatar
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    Talking

    Now we just need to find the pretty blue paint to match it... Or just airbrush the amount of frowns turned upside down on it

    BlUe SpYder RT-S SE5 #303I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it ... Proud Member of A.S.S. (Average Senile Spyderryder)

    Our 2010 RT-S Mods... *Warning* If you can read this, it is already too late and there is no known cure. You have Spydervirus.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member spyder3's Avatar
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    Default Heat

    Both myself and my passenger seem to be getting high heat on our right foot/leg using the stock pegs. Does this system help this out at all? is there anything to help this heat?

    I have highway pegs, but havent used them yet so not as concenred about them yet.

    john
    Rewaco RF-1 GT




    Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
    0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
    5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
    Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
    Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
    Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
    10.57 gallons

  6. #31
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SPYDERPOPS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder3 View Post
    Both myself and my passenger seem to be getting high heat on our right foot/leg using the stock pegs. Does this system help this out at all? is there anything to help this heat?

    I have highway pegs, but havent used them yet so not as concenred about them yet.

    john
    Yes, the catalytic converter shields will help this problem for sure. I first made a set for a friend that was experiencing that same problem and found that the converter hung down below the casting on both sides over an inch. By blocking the high heat coming from the converter he and his bride ride very comfortable now.

    Check them out at www.spyderpops.com



  7. #32
    Very Active Member spyder3's Avatar
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    Default installation

    Hi, thanks. your link for the installation isnt working, what does it take for a mechanically challenged person to install.
    Rewaco RF-1 GT




    Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
    0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
    5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
    Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
    Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
    Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
    10.57 gallons

  8. #33
    Teddys favorite human CyncySpyder's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Great Product & Service Too

    Harvey, we were the last in line at SpYderFest to get the Air Management System & WOW!!! Teddy & I both Thank You

    The heat shield is glossy black, but when in place, you just really don't notice it & you don't see an unfinished looking gaping hole on your RT Roadster either. That along with the catalitic guards make all the difference in the world.

    Just yesterday, we got stuck on the Insterstate that had just been closed do to construction & an accident & we had to just sit there for over 20 minutes in the blazing sun, temp gauge on TEDDYS Was reading 102. I was afraid that with having this new system, and the not moving, it would overheat, but no dice the temp gauge didn't go above 5 bars

    And I can now comfortably use the new fin guards and love them. I actually rode to the store the other day in shorts, & yeah, I can still tell there is a heat source there, but NOTHING like it was before. And with pants & boots, it's a game changer for sure Good Work. Thank You.

  9. #34
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SPYDERPOPS's Avatar
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    Sorry about the link! Yes they are very easy to install even for the challenged.

    If you want to see the instructions before we get the link fixed PM me your email address.
    Harvey

    Quote Originally Posted by spyder3 View Post
    Hi, thanks. your link for the installation isnt working, what does it take for a mechanically challenged person to install.



  10. #35
    Very Active Member IWN2RYD's Avatar
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by spyder3 View Post
    Both myself and my passenger seem to be getting high heat on our right foot/leg using the stock pegs. Does this system help this out at all? is there anything to help this heat?

    I have highway pegs, but havent used them yet so not as concenred about them yet.

    john
    Yes this will help that. Just an FYI... in regards to heat in the factory peg position... Most feel this heat on most any bikes. Some of us get used to it and forget all about it. Some of us wear thicker boots than others and never feel it.

    For a personal example... I got so comfy with the stability of the Spyder that a few "Grocery" runs I wore tennis shoes and went Yipes! What is all this heat! Took me two times for my brain to go.. Um... Silly... No boots...

    Bottom line, this is normal. And this item will reduce this heat to your feet.
    BlUe SpYder RT-S SE5 #303I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it ... Proud Member of A.S.S. (Average Senile Spyderryder)

    Our 2010 RT-S Mods... *Warning* If you can read this, it is already too late and there is no known cure. You have Spydervirus.

  11. #36
    Very Active Member spyder3's Avatar
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    Default thanks

    Thanks guy, my email is john7777@ol.com

    I'll place an order shortly....

    john
    Rewaco RF-1 GT




    Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
    0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
    5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
    Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
    Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
    Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
    10.57 gallons

  12. #37
    Invalid Emails
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    After 90 mile ride today in mid 90s on my RT, I just ordered both heat mods! Hope you have some good directions posted up soon or included in box with them. LOL

  13. #38
    RT-S PE#0031 MarkLawson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REPOPS View Post
    I'm looking into it, can you pm me a picture of the HWY peg so I can see where if is located?

    Harvey,

    Here you go:





    Thanks!
    Mark & Mary Lou Lawson
    Snellville, GA USA
    '10 RT-S PE #0031
    '10 RT-622 Trailer
    '08 Yellow SM5 #2332
    '01 Black GL1800A Goldwing #0930

    "Remember in the darkness what you have learned in the light." - Joe Bayly



  14. #39
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SPYDERPOPS's Avatar
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    CAUTION! When you install the "La Bloc" it is absolutely mandatory that you remove the belly pan under the RT. This pan is located to the rear of the radiator and under the RT on the right side.

    It has 2- 10mm bolts attaching it to the frame and 1- bolt and nut 10mm under the outer edge.

    Harvey



  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPYDERPOPS View Post
    CAUTION! When you install the "La Bloc" it is absolutely mandatory that you remove the belly pan under the RT. This pan is located to the rear of the radiator and under the RT on the right side.

    It has 2- 10mm bolts attaching it to the frame and 1- bolt and nut 10mm under the outer edge.

    Harvey
    Not trying to be contrary but can someone help me understand the mandatory requirement to remove the right side belly pan? Looking at the different heat management systems, I would think that the remaining lower port on the right side of my RT should be sufficient heat exhaust especially if the fan is active. Just my HO.

  16. #41
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yol Bolsun View Post
    Not trying to be contrary but can someone help me understand the mandatory requirement to remove the right side belly pan? Looking at the different heat management systems, I would think that the remaining lower port on the right side of my RT should be sufficient heat exhaust especially if the fan is active. Just my HO.
    If you don't remove the right bellypan, you reduce the air exit area by about 60%...and you wil move much less airr than before. The free exit are is a carefully engineered parameter, and any severe modifications to it will impact the ability of the cooling system to do the job it was designed to do. Removing the belly pan compensates for the area you cover with the heat management kit.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    If you don't remove the right bellypan, you reduce the air exit area by about 60%...and you wil move much less airr than before. The free exit are is a carefully engineered parameter, and any severe modifications to it will impact the ability of the cooling system to do the job it was designed to do. Removing the belly pan compensates for the area you cover with the heat management kit.
    Okay, here we go. Me trying to discuss/understand Scotty on this one.

    Givens: I will be mounting Lamont's NBV highway mounts in the near future and have SpyderPops LaBloc already on hand.

    Alternatives to hot air exhaust (besides me closing my orifices - haha Bob, beat you to that one)
    1. remove belly pan (installed as a sound suppressor) which is radically more exhaust capacity,
    2. cut hole in belly pan equivalent to the 'La Blocked area
    3. use another device which redirects hot air in different directions (through what appears to be a significantly smaller vent) relying on the fan to move the volume.
    4. Allow fan to push air out the remaining exhaust port following installation of the LaBloc, or does the fan only function as a booster when the system deems necessary? If so, where does that leave us with item 3?

    Has anyone opted not to remove the belly pan and had any negative results there of?

    How can we here determine what was "carefully engineered" versus "gee, that looks nice" engineering? (which I believe most body lines/openings to be)

    Perhaps, this whole discussion would be better at SpyderFest with appropriate beverages (alcoholic/non-alcoholic TBD) on hand.

  18. #43
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    The fan only runs when the Spyder is quite hot. It is not running during normal operation. Without the fan, I would very much doubt you could move enough air, especially at lower speeds. That might just make the fan run more (which makes your foot hotter), or it might still allow insufficient air volume, resulting in overheating. A flowmeter and some recording equipment would tell you, but that is a lot of trouble and expense just to answer the question.

    Even the "hole in the bellypan" option will reduce airflow. By moving the outlet farther away from the radiator, with a "dirtier" path, you increase friction losses as it is, and theoretically need to add more exit area than you closed. A 3"-4" hole in the bellypan is certainly not going to replace or exceed the upper outlet area you block...and it will negate any noise reduction the bellypan provided.

    Why the reluctance to remove the bellypan? The amount of noise it reduces is insignifcant, affecting only the overall volume of the Spyder at idle, reducing it a few decibles to meet regulatory requirements. Once you start moving, you would never know it is gone. If you are worried about crud splashing up into the engine compartment, I wouldn't. Many of us have done tens of thousands of miles without one or both bellypans, and nobody has complained about the dirt accumulation yet. I get far more crud thrown up in there by the belt than I do from leaving the pan off, and even that isn't enough to dirty a shop towel between oil changes.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

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