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radiator heat shield and air redirector
hi guys
has anyone used radiator heat shield and air redirector from tricled or other products to cool down the spyder??
http://web.me.com/reggystan/Tricplat...guard_acc.html
thanks
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by spyder_addict
I have the ones from spyderpops, which tricled sells. I find with the spyder moving that I went from 5 bars to 3 bars during the summer months. I no longer feel much heat on my right foot. However, right after I installed the spyderpops package, I had the 'Y' gaskets changed to the Honda ones; the right side gasket was just about history. If the right side 'Y' gasket goes, that will add to the heat you already feel on a stock spyder; at least for the GS/RS model. I know nothing of the RT.
But, I do feel the spyderpops (tricled) kit has helped.
I have no knowledge of the fan can, which I believe (but could be wrong) is the ISCI design.
I'm sorry, I completely missed it: Welcome aboard.
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enjoy the site and ryde
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Registered Users
I also have the spyderpops version and it works very well but i have to be honest if the other one was available at that time i would have bought that one just because it looks easy to mount i dont know how it works but it must?
Roger
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Senile Member
Originally Posted by spyder_addict
Don't like the design of the fan shroud as it redirects the heat into the engine bay. Unless you have the engine floor plate removed, heat will have to escape thru the seams. Plus it's metal so it might rattle if its loose or touching something. Definitely not my cup of tea for sure.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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Originally Posted by M2Wild
Don't like the design of the fan shroud as it redirects the heat into the engine bay. Unless you have the engine floor plate removed, heat will have to escape thru the seams. Plus it's metal so it might rattle if its loose or touching something. Definitely not my cup of tea for sure.
thnx
but i do care about the bike engine heat its more important than the heat which comes out the foot especially in traffic it gets very hot and on my first ride idint know about it which made the spyder goes to the limp and vss error then i had to call a recovery to take it bak home and took a taxi bak home loool thats why i wanted to know what is the best stuff for cooling the engine and i hope brp will do somthing in the futre about it ..
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by spyder_addict
thnx
but i do care about the bike engine heat its more important than the heat which comes out the foot especially in traffic it gets very hot and on my first ride idint know about it which made the spyder goes to the limp and vss error then i had to call a recovery to take it bak home and took a taxi bak home loool thats why i wanted to know what is the best stuff for cooling the engine and i hope brp will do somthing in the futre about it ..
VSS fault is most commonly caused by brake fluid that is a tiny bit low (although it won't look it).
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Registered Users
I just did an oil change on my daughters bike and i remember a thread by lamonster that he left off the pan below the engine to make it easier to do next time and to reduce the heat so far so good. Now i have to go get the mobil 1 out of my bike and leave the pan off. AAAAAH some nice fresh amsoil.
Roger
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Senile Member
Originally Posted by spyder_addict
thnx
but i do care about the bike engine heat its more important than the heat which comes out the foot especially in traffic it gets very hot and on my first ride idint know about it which made the spyder goes to the limp and vss error then i had to call a recovery to take it bak home and took a taxi bak home loool thats why i wanted to know what is the best stuff for cooling the engine and i hope brp will do somthing in the futre about it ..
It shouldn't be so hot that makes the Spyder go into limp mode unless there is a reason (i.e. increased heat due to leaky exaust gasket, or long period if idling in stuck traffic with breeze against the heat exaust port). Check your fan to make sure it goes on when it reaches 4 bars. If not, check the fan relay next. It only happened for me once as I was stuck in traffic waiting for a long train to go by on a very hot day. I changed to RP oil and added ICE to the radiator and that seems to have done the trick and keeps the temp in check at 5 bars. SpyderPops AMS just help move the heat out of the way when the bike is IN MOTION. It won't do nothing if it is stuck in traffic.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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