Mounting a Zumo up high

[CyncySpyder]

Just do it yourself. It is not difficult, I did the install myself.After nearly rear ending SEVERAL cars because the GPS was SO FREAKING FAR OUT OF MY LINE OF SIGHT I moved it up high after seeing CyncySpyders mounted on top. Took me about 2.5 hours to move it, it is installed EXACTLY the way BRP would do it using all the same wiring. The only difference is the position.Piece of cake!

[BitSlayer]

OK, I know this thread has not been active for a bit, but wanted to ask a question. From what I have read, you have been able to use the BRP wiring harness to reroute from the handlebars up to the dash. There is enough slack in the BRP harness for that? Is there a preferred routing path? I also find it dangerous to have it low since you have to look so far down to see it. Also, sun reflection can be pretty bad in that position and when that occurs, it becomes useless...

[SpydermanCT]

OK, I know this thread has not been active for a bit, but wanted to ask a question. From what I have read, you have been able to use the BRP wiring harness to reroute from the handlebars up to the dash. There is enough slack in the BRP harness for that? Is there a preferred routing path? I also find it dangerous to have it low since you have to look so far down to see it. Also, sun reflection can be pretty bad in that position and when that occurs, it becomes useless...

I did use the factory harness and had no problem at all mounting it up on top of the dash. I think I just pulled my harness up top by going behind the right headlight, there was plenty of wire and holes to get to where you need to.

[Littlebadwolf]

So much for the factory mount for the Garmin...mine snapped in half yesterday while riding with other forum members...Was just riding along and pieces of the mount started flying all over the place and my GPS was free gliding at the end of the harness which thankfully hung on...Grrrr...and my helmet shield started sticking and wouldn't let me take the d_*m thing off my head...and yes..all the bolts were secured tightly..I check them before every ride. Not a pleasant day for me equipment wise but the Spyder ran great.

[BitSlayer]

I did use the factory harness and had no problem at all mounting it up on top of the dash. I think I just pulled my harness up top by going behind the right headlight, there was plenty of wire and holes to get to where you need to.

Thanks, SpyderMan, that is what I was hoping to hear. How much of the tupperware did you have to take off to get the cable rerouted? Sorry if this is in this thread, but I looked and did not see it. Did you have to take off the side panel, front facia, windshield, windshield mount and the top of the dash? Don't mind doing it, but don't want to tear down too much if I don't have to...

This will be my first mod so I am trying to do my homework up front so I don't get any surprises while I have it torn apart...

I agree with Cyncy, or is that Teddy , that the current location is a disaster waiting to happen. Too low and out of the safety zone for my line of site...

[SpydermanCT]

Thanks, SpyderMan, that is what I was hoping to hear. How much of the tupperware did you have to take off to get the cable rerouted? Sorry if this is in this thread, but I looked and did not see it. Did you have to take off the side panel, front facia, windshield, windshield mount and the top of the dash? Don't mind doing it, but don't want to tear down too much if I don't have to...

This will be my first mod so I am trying to do my homework up front so I don't get any surprises while I have it torn apart...

I agree with Cyncy, or is that Teddy , that the current location is a disaster waiting to happen. Too low and out of the safety zone for my line of site...

Some more details here :

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...n-Dash-Install

[BitSlayer]

Perfect! That is what I was looking for. I will let you know how it goes. I ordered the Ram parts tonight. Hopefully this heat will let up a little to let me get out and do this. Outside, or in a garage, at 111 in Oklahoma is no fun.

Thanks again for digging that up.

BitSlayer

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[MtlBen]

Do not mean to highjack the thread, but added material here to make it easier for other forum users to find information in one location.

I just installed a Zumo 350 on a Spyder RT with A/C, heavily "inspired" from other user's experience and recommendations.

Here are my thoughts/advice if you consider doing the install: Note that I had never removed any tupperware before this.

1. It is worth it. IHMO beats hands down BRP's factory location. (I first did a test ride with temporary install close to the factory location)
2. Remove the body parts to have good access to your work area. Even though there is a long list of body parts to remove, they are all easy to remove if you follow the instructions. Don't let that discourage you. Just do it when you are not in a rush or don't have a deadline.
3. Get the shop manual. Do your search in the forum, there are many available. I paid $24 for mine and I am satisfied. It helped me a lot identifying what to remove and in which order.
4. Measure, measure, measure. Once you think you have found a location on the dashboard where you think the GPS base should go, check what's underneath. I used my kid's play-doh and squished it between the 2 pieces of the console to figure out how mush space I had for the lock nut and washer, and I found out it is pretty tight in many areas.
5. Find the exact location where you want it to be and do the drilling on a good work bench. You don't get a second chance.

After crosschecking with the electrical diagrams, I followed NancyToys advice on the power hookup http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ource-Question.


Here are a few pics of the install. The original High-Res pics can be seen here: http://bchauvette.smugmug.com/Forums...2362150_fb2wtC

Do yourself a favor: remove the body parts and get a good access to the working area:



Mark your location. Note that I ended up locating the mount further left (viewed from the driver's position) after I realized there was some obstruction below one of my planned screw location.


Look for obstruction and check the clearance under your planned location. (I used Play-Doh and measured clearance)



I used a square RAM mount plate with large washers underneath for increased stability. I also selected a short RAM connecting arm to reduce the chances of unit vibrating on harsh roads.


In my mount, one of the screws ended up a bit too close to the edge and it was a bit of a struggle to slide the console cover back into its location. Do not mount it any closer to the edge than I did.


I used power taps on the fuel gauge to get the power



Having removed the console cover gave me a good location to install the Gamin power module:



I attached the power cable to prevent it from being pulled out too far, but gave it enough loose to allow the GPS position to be adjusted. I only slotted the lower portion of the console to run the cable and did not touch the cover to make it less noticeable.




Pics of the final product:







Mounted on the left, I found the GPS is easier to reach and it occupies an area that is already obstructed by the windshield mount so it could be a good option for shorter riders.



My first test ride showed that the overall mounting is very sturdy and very stable. You really have to look hard to see any vibration that does not follow the console itself, even on rough roads. I am extremely happy with the end results and I am glad I did it.


Tx to all other forum members who's posts helped me make this a successful install.


...Ben...

[BitSlayer]

Great write-up. Thanks for all the pics as well. I received my Ram parts a couple of days ago, but still waiting for the heat to break here in OK before I tackle it.

[2manycars]

I thought I had an original idea when I replaced the dash screw with a longer one in much the same manner Lamont did to attach a Ram mount. That location offers some glare protection due to the overhang of the top of the dash. For power I replaced the left hand gauge with the cover from the "basic" RT since I liked having the temp. and fuel better. I had the dealer install the BRP power plug (a cigarette lighter) in the cover rather than in the trunk. I removed the dash cover (4 bolts) and spliced into the lighter plug wires. The factory plug is only on when the RT power is on so I get the advantage of the unit power going. off when the engine does.

I am on the fence about a separate GPS unit. It looks like one of the pictures is of a Garmin ZUMO 350 LM. How do you like the unit. It seems expensive for a somewhat basic unit. The other unit I am considering the "older" 665. I already installed the XM unit in the glove box and ran the wires (antenna and audio) back to the rear trunk. I would use the already run cable for the 665 XM. The 665 is a cleaner option and it is only $100.00 more than the 350. I do like the size, ruggedness and newness(a newer model) of the 350.

My other concern about the 665 is the A2DP (?) bluetooth profile it uses. I have a Uclear intercom, and I know when I use my iphone with it, the GPS does not interrupt the intercom when talking to my wife since the intercom has a higher priority than the A2DP music profile the Iphone uses for GPS.

Does anyone have any experience with this combination of Uclear and 665, and does the GPS mute the intercom to give voice instruction? Uclear says the HF profile of the 350LM will interrupt the intercom to give instructions but is not sure how the 665 wil handle the intercom override I seek.

Either way I already have the Ram Mount issue resolved since I used the same screw replacement
method he used.

665 or 350LM? Opinions being solicited

Thanks

[CyncySpyder]

[QUOTE=MtlBen;495648]Do not mean to highjack the thread, but added material here to make it easier for other forum users to find information in one location. I just installed a Zumo 350 on a Spyder RT with A/C, heavily "inspired" from other user's experience and recommendations.
Here are my thoughts/advice if you consider doing the install: Note that I had never removed any tupperware before this.[QUOTE=MtlBen;495648]

Another reason Teddy & I LOVE this Forum

People are always willing to help and share their experiences

[MtlBen]

665 or 350LM? Opinions being solicited

As you saw in my post, I bought the 350LM. I have not used the 660/665 so I can't really compare.

The fact that the 350 does not link to a phone seemed like a step back at first, but while looking for an intercom I realized that the intercom itself will pair simultaneously to both the GPS and the phone, so there is no real need for the GPS to do it. The 350 is not an MP3 player either, but then again I already have an ipod in the trunk and I do not really use it, as I find the sound is just horrible on my RT.

I bought it hoping that their new "app" approach would add additional features in the future, and also hoping that the bluetooth interface get improved, as I read that it seems to have some limitations.

Although it is available for everyone to buy, the 660 series design seems to be more geared toward OEMs, allowing them to add a bluetooth option to their radio without having to design it themselves. This would explain why they have 2 models of different generations with almost identical feature set, and at similar price point: you probably can't just kill the OEM model without fullfilling your contractual commitments.

I found that the screen gets hard to read when riding towards the sun with a light colored jacket. (see the recent thread about that: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-GPS-White-out)

The other annoyance I found is that the 350 will not sync with anything that does not have an hps bluetooth profile. If the device only has a2dp, it is a no-go. I am looking for a bluetooth adaptor that I can connect to the 3.5mm aux audio input in the trunk and tried 3 so far: only 1 would pair but had horrible audio.

As for the GPS itself, it does a very good job: I am very satisfied. You can plan either with Garmin Basecamp or HD Ride Planner and send the route straight to the GPS, then read back the track logs. But the 665 probably does that also.


...Ben...

[Ride Master]

I am considering purchasing a Zumo 660 and really would like it mounted high center like you guys have done; however, I am mechanically deficient and would have to ask my dealership to do this. I have a 2011 Spyder RT-S SE5. I am wondering if they would do it as they normally use the BRP mount that goes at the apex of the handle bars.

Any suggestions on what I should say to them regarding how this mount can be done? What is the full name of the mount you are using and lastly........is this something that would/could void the warranty.

Any help will be appreciated greatly!!!


"I would never ride anything I built"

Mine did

[BitSlayer]

I love this site!!!

Thanks for all the feedback and pictures. I did get my Zumo move up to the top of the dash and man, what a difference it made. We just got back from a week long ride where we put on over 2500 miles. The new position was fantastic as it allowed me to view the navigation and still keep the road in sight.

Instead of removing the old mounting bracket in the middle of the handlebars, that became a new Ram mount point.

While I had the top of the dash off, I also added some Ram mounts to each side of the dash just above the speakers as discussed by Lamonster. Very nice to have those availalbe for use as well.

[capt.jim]

I have the Madstad windshield on my 08 GS. The aluminum piece that replaces the factory windshield is very sturdy, I mounted the Zumo 660 on the underside with only the brackets that came in the box. I can raise it up high when needed or lower it down or to the side. Minimal vibration also.DSC00008.jpgDSC00009.jpgDSC00010.jpgDSC00012.jpgDSC00014.jpg

[dizzyspots]

Ok...so I need to clarify the Zumo high mount option. i have a factory installed Zumo...on the handlebars
I have all the Ram mount parts to move it to the top of the dash
I have read the posts that say that I can use the BRP Zumo harness..and that it has enough reach.
My question is...what is the process to re-route the existing cable...after unbolting the cradle...can I wriggle the harness out from under stuff and get the cradle up to the top of the dash...
this weekend project, so Im ready for Spyders in the Redwoods....
Thanks in advance

Mike