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Registered Users
It's back home!
My Spyder RT Limited is back in the Spyder Den, now I just need some nice weather!
This was an expensive lesson for the dealership. The wiring harness alone was $246.93 so with the labor and additional part, the paperwork they gave me a copy of showed a total of $501.68!
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Registered Users
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Rando
Spydie still no workie! Anyone know if Michigan has a lemon law that covers motorcycles?
It worked when they loaded and unloaded it from the trailer. It sat overnight due to the bad weather. Yesterday we tried to take it for a ride and it wouldn't start. %#@*&! At this point I think the dealer didn't prep the battery correctly or it's just a lemon of a battery.
It was hooked up to the battery tender overnight so I will run some voltage checks on it when I get home after work today.
Did you check it after it was hooked up all night? I hope it's just the battery. Like I said when we talked on the phone, so far your issues are dealer issues and not RT issues.
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Randy I'm sorry to hear you are still having problems. As Lamont said it sounds like things your dealer have done incorrectly. I hope that they get you on the road quickly. Are you planning on going to Spyderfest?
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Rando
Spydie still no workie! Anyone know if Michigan has a lemon law that covers motorcycles?
It worked when they loaded and unloaded it from the trailer. It sat overnight due to the bad weather. Yesterday we tried to take it for a ride and it wouldn't start. %#@*&! At this point I think the dealer didn't prep the battery correctly or it's just a lemon of a battery.
It was hooked up to the battery tender overnight so I will run some voltage checks on it when I get home after work today.
Michigan's Lemon Law doesn't cover motorcycles. You wouldn't have met the requirements yet, anyway. I know these teething problems are frustrating, but they should be able to be readily resolved (by a decent dealer), and you should be enjoying the new toy in short order. The weather has been too crummy to enjoy the Spyder, anyway. Hang in there!
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
It breaks my heart when I see this. You are getting help from two of the best experts here I know it is tough to be patient at times, to bad I was not in your neck of the woods or I would stop by and have a look...
BTW... A local member here had this issue with his 2010 Limited... Long story short... We unplugged and plugged back in all the relays we could get our hands on, snugged up all the grounds and he has been problem free ever sense.
BlUe SpYder RT-S SE5 #303I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it ... Proud Member of A.S.S. ( Average Senile Spyderryder)
Our 2010 RT-S Mods... *Warning* If you can read this, it is already too late and there is no known cure. You have Spydervirus.
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Lamonster
Did you check it after it was hooked up all night?
It was on the charger for 5 hours and then I had to go to bed since I get up at 4am for work. After 5 hours it was still a steady red. This morning it was flashing green, indicating a trickle charge. I disconnected it and it was putting out 13.65 volts. I will check it again when I get home around 4pm.
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Registered Users
I just finished checking the battery. This morning, after sitting on the charger overnight, it was 13.65. Eleven hours later it was 13.02. With the key turned on, it was 12.46. Cranking, 10.87. At idle, 14.14. At 4,000 rpm, 14.14.
Sounds like the battery just ran low after sitting at the dealership for 5 days? Ok to go for a ryde or is it going to leave me stranded?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rando
I just finished checking the battery. This morning, after sitting on the charger overnight, it was 13.65. Eleven hours later it was 13.02. With the key turned on, it was 12.46. Cranking, 10.87. At idle, 14.14. At 4,000 rpm, 14.14.
Sounds like the battery just ran low after sitting at the dealership for 5 days? Ok to go for a ryde or is it going to leave me stranded?
I would think the battery with a full charge would not drop to 10.87 volts under load. Sounds to me it has a bad cell.
MODS: Elka Shocks, ESI RT HMT Brake Light, ESI RT Brightsides, ESI Fender TIPS, ESI RIPS, ESI RT Day Runners, Grip Puppies
AmerSeal Sealant, KewlMetal Kewlock, Scorpio I900 Security System, Stebel Nautilus air horn, KewlMetal Highway Brackets & ISO Wings
Corbin seat, trunkrest & driver backrest, Capt.Jim's Belt Tensioner, SpyderPops LaBlock, Cat Shields, Bumpskid & Belt Guard
Seal PUP Floorboards, BRP chrome, Ron's Anti-Sway Bar, Lamonster LED Head/Fog Lights & BRP Air Scoops
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Y Rider
I would think the battery with a full charge would not drop to 10.87 volts under load. Sounds to me it has a bad cell.
If it were me having those problems, I would put in a new battery. Especially if your concerned about being stranded.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rando
I just finished checking the battery. This morning, after sitting on the charger overnight, it was 13.65. Eleven hours later it was 13.02. With the key turned on, it was 12.46. Cranking, 10.87. At idle, 14.14. At 4,000 rpm, 14.14.
Sounds like the battery just ran low after sitting at the dealership for 5 days? Ok to go for a ryde or is it going to leave me stranded?
How are you measuring the voltage? Did you have a volt meter with probes directly on the battery terminals?
MODS: Elka Shocks, ESI RT HMT Brake Light, ESI RT Brightsides, ESI Fender TIPS, ESI RIPS, ESI RT Day Runners, Grip Puppies
AmerSeal Sealant, KewlMetal Kewlock, Scorpio I900 Security System, Stebel Nautilus air horn, KewlMetal Highway Brackets & ISO Wings
Corbin seat, trunkrest & driver backrest, Capt.Jim's Belt Tensioner, SpyderPops LaBlock, Cat Shields, Bumpskid & Belt Guard
Seal PUP Floorboards, BRP chrome, Ron's Anti-Sway Bar, Lamonster LED Head/Fog Lights & BRP Air Scoops
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Y Rider
I would think the battery with a full charge would not drop to 10.87 volts under load. Sounds to me it has a bad cell.
No, the load test spec is 10.0 volts, or more. This battery tests out OK, according to the shop manual. The 12.5 volts after the key is turned on seems low to me, and may be the cause of the symptoms, but it does not have a spec in the book. The only reason I can think of for such a drop, as the computers and such fire up, would be a poor ground or other major connection, that increases the resistance under load, and drops the voltage as a result.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Y Rider
How are you measuring the voltage? Did you have a volt meter with probes directly on the battery terminals?
Positive on the battery side of Spyder. I pulled the red plastic cap off, negative on the ground opposite side of seat/battery location. I believe they are there for jumping the Spyder?
By the way, the wife and I had a really nice ryde after I got off work today. She drove it out and I drove it back. We both enjoyed being a passenger since it was a first for both of us!
Last edited by Rando; 04-21-2011 at 08:47 PM.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Rando
Positive on the battery side of Spyder. I pulled the red plastic cap off, negative on the ground opposite side of seat/battery location. I believe they are there for jumping the Spyder?
By the way, the wife and I had a really nice ryde after I got off work today. She drove it out and I drove it back. We both enjoyed being a passenger since it was a first for both of us!
Curious if this was the end of the problem for you, Did the Battery hold the charge and the other problems go away as a result
Thanks
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by redfox
Curious if this was the end of the problem for you, Did the Battery hold the charge and the other problems go away as a result
Thanks
Yes, thanks for asking. It was in the shop yesterday for the 600 mile service and to replace the faulty turn signal switch. I was shocked by the amount of parts that had to be removed just to replace the left handle bar control assembly!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Rando
Yes, thanks for asking. It was in the shop yesterday for the 600 mile service and to replace the faulty turn signal switch. I was shocked by the amount of parts that had to be removed just to replace the left handle bar control assembly!
That's good about the battery holding it's charge and eliminating one set of problems, sounds like it was not preped right by dealer. Sorry to hear about the turn signal problem though glad they got that fixed for you.
I have about 25 days left to sign up for the Best without the $75/yr surcharge, sounds like I better get it for the 3 yr additional warranty. I have about 450 miles on a new RTS, love it, but am very apprehensive about the electrical/electonics and computer brain on these machines. Had Harley's, Yamaha's, Honda's and Kawasaki's over the last 50 yrs with zero major and only about 2 minor problems. I never felt as fearful of electonic and mechanical problems as I do with this machine with the dealer 60 miles away. The 3 wheels have put me back on the road though. Wish it would stop raining so I could get more miles on it.
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by redfox
I have about 25 days left to sign up for the Best without the $75/yr surcharge, sounds like I better get it for the 3 yr additional.
Berts Mega Mall has the best pricing or do what I did and get your dealership to match the price!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rando
Berts Mega Mall has the best pricing or do what I did and get your dealership to match the price!
Randy,
Good to hear your enjoying the RT ... other than this weather we're having. We stood out in the rain for about 3 hours yesterday watching our daughter and son-in-law compete in the Grand Rapids River Bank Run. We were hoping to get in a long ride today ... NOT. I don't even want to look outside, let alone be outside.
Anyway, hope to see you on the road.
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Registered Users
[QUOTE=Lamonster;304834]Sorry you had trouble with your new RT but glad it wasn't too serious.
This is the panel under the seat to access the battery. It's two screws.
(just out of curiosity what is the top right round plug looking thing? Does it come out or need to? Can it made to be an after market power outlet? I tried to pry it off and felt like I would break it so I walked away defeated)
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Jon Galt
2011 Spyder RT-S SE5 - OEM
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Motorbike Professor
Passenger comm system jack.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Passenger comm system jack.
Thanks, guess I was just hoping.
_____________________
Jon Galt
2011 Spyder RT-S SE5 - OEM
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by JonGalt
Thanks, guess I was just hoping.
If you bought this used, it could be a power outlet. Lift the flap and look inside. It it is a large opening with contacts on the side and bottom, it is power, if it has many small contacts, it is comms of some sort. It is the location for the optional comm port, but someone could have put anything there.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Active Member
I follow Lamonster's post about the 2 screws for accessing the battery to check connections on the battery. However if you had to completely remove the battery on a 2011 RTS could you get it out that way or do more panels have to come off. I have seen a tech take off the rear side panel after removing only the middle side panel. Would that be it or is there more stuff like the side storage compartment that has to come off to get the battery out. God I hope not but it looks like it to a novice. Will be working on it this week-end to check connections on the battery.
Reason I am asking is we have a 2 car garage, Miata and Spyder occupy it in the summer. In the winter the 2 Subaru's have to go in there. We live in the mountains and have wicked winters. They use tons of salt and sand on the roads here so no winter riding anyway. We have great dry storage for the summer toys that we rent very resonably but no battery tenders are allowed, so I will have to remove the battery and keep it on a tender on the work bench in the cellar.
Also any computer memory that could get messed up by removing the battery for the winter (5 months). Don't want Nanny to get mad in the spring.
Thanks
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