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  1. #26
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG RED 1 View Post
    Thanks for the tip! I will be checking things out today. I have been charging the battery all night. The tender charge light has yet to turn green after 15 hours! I am able to start it now, but I'm convinced the battery is not holding a charge. I will check all of the connections.

    Jon, I have seven Wal-Mart battery chargers (maintainers) of the old design. I just bought one to plug in Big Red 1 and put it on my four wheeler. It stayed red for over 12 hours, never flashed or turned green. I returned it, thinking it was defective and got another one. I have not plugged it in yet.

    It is one that detects whether it is a 6v or 12v. I don't like it or the new design. Let me know IF your's ever turned green. Mine should have gone green immediately as my battery was fully charged.

    FYI. I bought a pig tail that plugs in the trunk to charge my battery as I keep a charger on 24/7....on my scoots.
    It took about 16 hours to start flashing GREEN . This indicates it is 80% charged. I bought a $30 "Deltran Battery Tender Junior" at Battery Plus yesterday. I was going to get the PLUS model, but they said it was overkill for a CAN-AM or a motorcycle. It outputs 12Vdc @ 750mA and the directions indicates that it takes 16 hours to charge a battery to 80% which is spot on with what I experienced! This may indicate that the problem may not be a drain or the battery, but rather the alternator not properly charging the battery maybe due to a bad connection? Otherwise this may simply be that it was never charged long enough or properly at the dealership to begin with. Seems if there was a drain, short, or the battery had bad cells the charge time would have exceeded 16 hours to reach 80%. I wish I bought the Plus model because it outputs 1.25Amps and charges a 12Vdc battery to 80% in 9 hours. They talked me out of spending more so I went the conservative route instead of my typical "OVERKILL" response. I'm now just waiting for the light to go solid green and maintain that state after some riding or removing the tender.
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  2. #27
    Very Active Member retread's Avatar
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    When you get things sorted out, one thing to keep in mind; Spyders have a magneto to charge the battery, and it's output doesn't max out till around 4k rpm. I generally keep mine on a BT jr, but with a decent battery, you should be able to let it go a week or so with no charger hooked up.

    john

  3. #28
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by retread View Post
    When you get things sorted out, one thing to keep in mind; Spyders have a magneto to charge the battery, and it's output doesn't max out till around 4k rpm. I generally keep mine on a BT jr, but with a decent battery, you should be able to let it go a week or so with no charger hooked up.

    john
    Ah yes, gotcha! No alternator...I forget this is not car! This is my first motorcyle-esque vehicle aside from a honda scooter when I was 17 years old! I have much to learn.
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonGalt View Post
    ... "motorcyle-esque vehicle"...
    That is a GREAT way to describe these!! We've had several (well... many!) running battles over what to call them... YOU WIN!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #30
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonGalt View Post
    It took about 16 hours to start flashing GREEN . This indicates it is 80% charged. I bought a $30 "Deltran Battery Tender Junior" at Battery Plus yesterday. I was going to get the PLUS model, but they said it was overkill for a CAN-AM or a motorcycle. It outputs 12Vdc @ 750mA and the directions indicates that it takes 16 hours to charge a battery to 80% which is spot on with what I experienced! This may indicate that the problem may not be a drain or the battery, but rather the alternator not properly charging the battery maybe due to a bad connection? Otherwise this may simply be that it was never charged long enough or properly at the dealership to begin with. Seems if there was a drain, short, or the battery had bad cells the charge time would have exceeded 16 hours to reach 80%. I wish I bought the Plus model because it outputs 1.25Amps and charges a 12Vdc battery to 80% in 9 hours. They talked me out of spending more so I went the conservative route instead of my typical "OVERKILL" response. I'm now just waiting for the light to go solid green and maintain that state after some riding or removing the tender.
    As you have discovered, it takes a long time to fully charge a 21 amp hour battery at a mere 0.75 amps (theoretically 28 hours if it was completely dead). That is OK, a slow charge is a safe charge. The good news is that you are close to full charge now. If the battery tender never flashes green, there is either a bad connection or the battery is FUBAR. If you get a solid green, the battery is almost certainly good. A weakened (sulfated) battery may flash the indicator, but never turn it solid. Sounds like you will be good to go, real soon.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  6. #31
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    That is a GREAT way to describe these!! We've had several (well... many!) running battles over what to call them... YOU WIN!
    I don't often win...let me take this all in!
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  7. #32
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    As you have discovered, it takes a long time to fully charge a 21 amp hour battery at a mere 0.75 amps (theoretically 28 hours if it was completely dead). That is OK, a slow charge is a safe charge. The good news is that you are close to full charge now. If the battery tender never flashes green, there is either a bad connection or the battery is FUBAR. If you get a solid green, the battery is almost certainly good. A weakened (sulfated) battery may flash the indicator, but never turn it solid. Sounds like you will be good to go, real soon.
    I got solid Green! I took it out on the highway to a friend's place. Came home after a great ride (put about 40 miles on her) a few minutes ago and right as I pulled up to my garage I got a DPS error flashing, VSS icon came on, ENGINE light flashing, oil light flashing, orange handlebar light, & limp home error. I'm like son-of- ! It was a Kobayashi Maru scenario! I can't win for losing! I powered it down in the garage and cranked her back up a few minutes later and most of the "RED Alerts" were gone, but the engine light didn't go off until a few seconds. I called the dealer and they are scheduling a pickup. I'm disheartened. I am ready to take up smoking again!
    Last edited by JonGalt; 03-29-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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  8. #33
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonGalt View Post
    I got solid Green! I took it out on the highway to a friend's place. Came home after a great ride (put about 40 miles on her) a few minutes ago and right as I pulled up to my garage I got a DPS error flashing, VSS icon came on, ENGINE light flashing, oil light flashing, orange handlebar light, & limp home error. I'm like son-of- ! It was a Kobayashi Maru scenario! I can't win for losing! I powered it down in the garage and cranked her back up a few minutes later a few minutes later and most of the "RED Alerts" were gone, but the engine light didn't go off until a few seconds. I called the dealer and they are scheduling a pickup. I'm disheartened. I am ready to take up smoking again!
    The cascading failure codes are usually a sign of low voltage (or a loose wire), or of a loose main relay. Look on the bright side, problems that are easily seen and repeated, are usually readily found and repaired. A good dealer should be able to readily resolve it. Don't get discouraged...it is only a speed bump.

    If you want to test the battery yourself, charge fully, then measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter anywhere from several hours after removing the charger, to overnight. The battery should retain at least 12.6-12.7 volts. Holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, crank the starter. The voltage when cranking should remain above 10.0 volts. At 4,000 rpm. the Spyder should charge between 13.0-14.8 volts.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  9. #34
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    The cascading failure codes are usually a sign of low voltage (or a loose wire), or of a loose main relay. Look on the bright side, problems that are easily seen and repeated, are usually readily found and repaired. A good dealer should be able to readily resolve it. Don't get discouraged...it is only a speed bump.

    If you want to test the battery yourself, charge fully, then measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter anywhere from several hours after removing the charger, to overnight. The battery should retain at least 12.6-12.7 volts. Holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, crank the starter. The voltage when cranking should remain above 10.0 volts. At 4,000 rpm. the Spyder should charge between 13.0-14.8 volts.
    I will pick up a voltmeter tomorrow. I finally picked up a good socket set to get in there and tighten everything, but since the dealership wants to pick it up and get this resolved I will give them the opportunity. I'm glad I got to my driveway when all these diagnostic lights went off, I might have freaked out on the highway if it happened at 70mph half way home on the interstate. I just wish my initial experience was more positive, I have little faith in the quality of this product. I am used to Toyota, Honda, & Lexus quality. This...well...not so much.
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  10. #35
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    make sure your foot is not tuching the brake it will cause all kinds of falts and limp modes. i mean not tuching any where till your ready to stop.ask me why i know.i had no idea the side of my foot was brushing the brake enough to cause all that crap.

  11. #36
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by napper39 View Post
    make sure your foot is not tuching the brake it will cause all kinds of falts and limp modes. i mean not tuching any where till your ready to stop.ask me why i know.i had no idea the side of my foot was brushing the brake enough to cause all that crap.

    I covered the brake a bit much on my 40 mile trip and wondered if I was touching it too much. Funny all the warning happen when I am stopping & crawling to get the spyder into the garage. Maybe it didn't like my jerky cautious stop and go into the garage. Temperamental comes to mind!
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  12. #37
    Very Active Member clueless's Avatar
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    also you can get a battery tester for cheap at Harbor Freight.

    but did you check the bolt under the seat next to the fuse box yet? seriously check it now...

  13. #38
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clueless View Post
    also you can get a battery tester for cheap at Harbor Freight.

    but did you check the bolt under the seat next to the fuse box yet? seriously check it now...
    I checked that connection. It was very tight. I can't get it tighter. (This is the one with the black ground wire attached, next to the fuses)

    I will go out to harbor freight, we have one down the street. They are cheap!

    I am still waiting for the dealer to schedule a pickup. I am hoping then get it today. It's rainy and cold again. Yesterday was perfect weather and tomorrow through Sunday is also suppose to be warmer and sunny.

    On the plus side the battery tender is not having to charge the battery and is only in monitoring after about an 45 minutes solid red it turns green and no flashing inbetween! So at least the battery is staying charged and holding a charge now.
    Last edited by JonGalt; 03-30-2011 at 08:39 AM.
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  14. #39
    RT-S PE#0032 2Gunns's Avatar
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    Jon,

    I sent you a PM.... hang in there my freind. I too felt I had made a huge mistake with my RT purchase. It all worked out, and now I feel it's the best purchase I ever made.

    Better days are just around the next corner


    Spyder Bytes: Kury ISO Grips, GL1500 Windshield Vent w/ accent, Heel-Toe Shifter(inspectorgadget), HMT Brake Light, 12v outlet in frunk, GPS-Phone mount w/ case(techmounts.com), seat seal, Right Side Grill Covers(customdynamics.com), Fan Can10(ISCIrides.com), CAT Shields(SpyderPops.com), Elka Shocks, PressurePro TPMS, Cobra CB....and of course Cup Holders(mycupholders.com)

  15. #40
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2Gunns View Post
    Jon,

    I sent you a PM.... hang in there my freind. I too felt I had made a huge mistake with my RT purchase. It all worked out, and now I feel it's the best purchase I ever made.

    Better days are just around the next corner
    Got it, and back at ya
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  16. #41
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    Please don't let some relatively minor issues sour your mood just yet! Hang in there and DON'T start smoking!!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Well good luck! and let us know how the situation proceeds...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  18. #43
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Well good luck! and let us know how the situation proceeds...
    Thanks, They picked it up yesterday and it should be ready and delivered tomorrow. I'm done time to chill out.
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  19. #44
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    Congratulations on your purchase!
    I purchased a 2010 RTS SE5 Black and have had so far, no issues: not even gas smell.

  20. #45
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjohn View Post
    Congratulations on your purchase!
    I purchased a 2010 RTS SE5 Black and have had so far, no issues: not even gas smell.
    Yeah, I just have bad luck, technology doesn't like me. God enjoys my consternation.
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  21. #46
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    lrt us know when you get it back how things go and put a picture on we love to see pictures.hope it works out and you have a blast.

  22. #47
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    Default Maybe I should start a new thread

    Quote Originally Posted by napper39 View Post
    lrt us know when you get it back how things go and put a picture on we love to see pictures.hope it works out and you have a blast.
    Will do, I am hoping they deliver it today. I will also take a QIK video with my phone or use my HD LOGITECH camera to upload a YouTube video when I get my Lenovo X201T Tablet back from the shop. I was at Triangle Cycles in Durham, NC yesterday to get a bigger riding jacket to accomodate my back-brace & to pickup my CAN-AM ST1 HYBRID Helmet.

    (BTW: I'm plugging the dealership ..I want to help them stay open in this economy because 10 motorcyles dealers have folded in the triangle area including the Raleigh Can-Am dealer!)

    I probably need to get the handle-bar modded to accomodate me not having to lean forward when I'm riding. It exacerbates my 2 torn discs something terrible the day after riding. Suggestions?

    Does anyone have a recommendation for GPS, MOUNT, and Helmet COMM.

    I am really leaning towards a pair of Scala Rider G4 PowerSet Headsets for my CAN-AM ST-1 HYBRID Helmet. I didn't order my helmet with the optional communication kit, but I did get the optional chin-guard. (Looking at ebay I could have got the helmet with the mic/headphones for $369. I paid that just for the helmet with a chin guard. I would have to pay the dealer an additional $189 for a headphone/mic that is wired and I wasn't sure I wanted to be wired).

    If I spend $339 (heavely discounted on ebay from the retail price of $499) I can get a pair of wireless scala rider G4 PowerSet Headset that will let me talk to another rider a mile away wirelessly while intregrating with a GPS via Bluetooth + FM, MP3 compatible. This allows me to eschew the Can-am CB which is a prerequisite (as I understand it) for ZUMO GPS audio integration with the Spyder's Audio and Can-AM ST1 Hybrid Helmet's audio which I don't have, is a wired solution vs wireless, and will cost me another $189.

    Maybe I should start a new thread? Suggestions?

    FYI: This CAN-AM ST1 HYBRID helmet is very impressive. The optional top air vents are great for the summer. The optional/removable modular chin guard (several to choose from) is a nice option. The hidden sun-visor with easy to reach release mechanism is so sleek and makes me feel like spy! The biggest reason I got this helmet is that my head is between Medium and Large & to the parts manager surprise they offer a Medium Large size! They have sm, med1, med2, large,...! I am impressed with the helmet & it fits perfectly.

    I will stop there...lunch is ready! Boy...The coffee must be working today! It's a tug-a-war with the morphine and muscle-relaxers I take for my back)
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonGalt View Post
    It's Timeless Black
    So is my 2010 RTS SE5 but I have not rode it yet as bought it just before winter and dealer is storing it for the winter. Will be coming out soon as soon as DPS is replaced
    Glad to hear that you are getting things resolved

  24. #49
    Registered Users JonGalt's Avatar
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    I got my Spyder back yesterday. Dealer acknowledged they found 2 low voltage conditions codes when they ran diagnostics. They cleared the computer codes. Drove it around and said it was fine. They assumed that the problem was due to the battery being low, but I explained to the GM that the battery was 100% charged when I got the cascading warnings. This fact seem to escape him. I asked did they check for loose connections and he was like "sure..sure...sure". I may be cynical, but I am less than convinced. I drove the Spyder and everything seems fine, but when I was done for the day I put the battery on the tender charge. It took 4 hours for the red light to blink green (battery charged to 80%) and 2 more hours for the light to turn steady-on (100% charged). Is it normal after riding the vehicle that the battery should be discharged this much that it requires 6 hours of charging? I have 0% faith that problem is resolved and fully expect to find a battery that gets more and more discharged over the next few days. I will not use the tender anymore and monitor the voltage drop.

    If the battery remains strong, then I will recant at a later date. Is it really true that the magneto does not charge the battery until 4K rpm is reached? This seems odd as I rarely see the Spyder reach 4K rpm when in 5th gear at average city cruising speeds. Why didn't Can-Am just go with an alternator? Isn't a magneto a bit dated?

    Aside from this...I had a great time riding yesterday. This thing guzzles gas like my twin brother puts away Vodka!

    I that the problems are resolved. Fingers-crossed.
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    Hi John!
    I've only used a Battery Tender for one Winter so my epxerience with them isn't nearly as extensive as otheres who are here...
    I kept my Soyder tethered to it;unhooking it only for startups and runtime over the" Dark Season". After shutting it down ind plugging it back in, I noticed that it was always taking a charge for about a half-hour or so and then it'd be full and "snooze" until the next time I woke it up...
    6 hours seems a bit long...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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