Spyder RT-S Handle Bar Control Cluster -- Loose?

[SilverSurfer]

I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

I've noticed on my '10 Spyder RT-S that the left-hand control cluster ... the cluster that includes the mode button, turn signal control, windscreen adjustment, mode-directional up/down/left/right ... seems loose. It's not 'flopping around' or anything and all the external screws are in place, while there was some room to tighten a little. The 'looseness' means that the assembly is able to move up/down around its axis on the handle bar by aobut 1/4 to 3/8th inch. Its position affects how solidly my thumb hits the turn signal. I try to nudge the cluster position to it's highest point which works the best. But is this normal, and if it isn't how does one tighten its position on the the steering/handle bar?

*Help*?

Thanks

[IWN2RYD]

3/8" is to close to 1/2"... If this is the case I think that there is an issue. Having never taken the RT apart I cannot comment if they have the little plastic pin that lines it up and keeps it from flopping around to much or not.

All I can offer... Ours always moved a total of 1/4" ish at the most (1/8" one way from center 1/4" total) and we thought it was normal...

[Dudley]

Loosen it up some, slip and stick some electrical tape as a spacer, tighten back up. Problem solved.

[BikerDoc]

Mine has always been loose also as have a couple of others I checked.. Jury rigging with the tape may just be the easiest answer..

[NancysToy]

Both ended up loose on my 2010. They were replaced under warranty.

[Marker]

Both ended up loose on my 2010. They were replaced under warranty.

Sounds like a trip to your dealer is in order

[Havasu Rider]

I took mine to the dealer last week for the same thing, only the pods on both handle bars were loose. They called BRP and I am taking it in for a fix on Tuesday. They said BRP is working on a permanent fix for the problem.

[SilverSurfer]

Thanks everyone for your responses and insight. I now have a direction. Just a question. when you take the screws out to open her up, what is underneath? I'm imagining a plug coming out of the stearing bar that snaps into the instruments.

Just don't want to break anything when I open it to layer in some gaffers tape for thickness.

Thanks

[Bob Denman]

That's a good quesiotn... Mine left side pod is also loose so I'm planning a session this weekend to pull things apart...

[bruiser]

Mine's loose too. I need to get in to the dealer to get the new fuel gauge, I'll have them look at the cluster as well.

[granpa in Cincy]

Mine's loose too. I need to get in to the dealer to get the new fuel gauge, I'll have them look at the cluster as well.

My dealer looked at mine and tried to tighten it with no success.

He said that won't hurt anything because there were pins inside that would keep it from moving too far.

[Bob Denman]

...They said BRP is working on a permanent fix for the problem.

I was told the same thing, but no service bulletins or recalls have been offered up as of yet...
It doesn't appear to be a seriuous issue in that the thing is screwed on there pretty tight. It's not going to fall off but it is a bit annoying...

[NancysToy]

My dealer looked at mine and tried to tighten it with no success.

He said that won't hurt anything because there were pins inside that would keep it from moving too far.

It may not hurt anything, but it sure can leave a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach, or distract you and possibly cause an accident. When it gets bad, and you go to push a control like the headlight dimmer, windshield height, or kill switch, and the darned thing moves away from you rather than performing the required function, it is unsafe...IMO. I would lean on the dealer for replacement or an alternate, permanent fix.

[Dragonrider]

Dealer fixed mine, & it's tight as a tick now....

[JohnS_Rosamond]

I never noticed that the left side could move until I read it here. The rear part of the hand control is only a cover and you should be able to remove it to put something in there (like the tape solution posted previous). However, when I tried to remove the rear part, it was so close to the master cylinder housing that I could not get enough room to remove the part. The instructions say the first thing to do to remove the switch housing is to remove the rear section of the housing, but I couldn't make it happen. Perhaps if the grip were removed I could slip it out. It really hadn't ever bothered me, so I left it alone.

[Havasu Rider]

My dealer called BRP and was told they were having a problem with loose pods. They told him how to fix it and the shop tried the fix. The right one is now tight but the left one is still loose. Service manager is contacting BRP again and I am still waiting to hear.

[eddieshep999]

My Left hand Cluster (RECC) is loose

The bolts have been checked and are as tight as they will go

I would like to take the Cluster off and Pack it out with Tape or Rubber and refit it to make it tight

Can I just undo the bolts and the Cluster will seperate to allow access

Will I have a problem with springs, Contacts etc within the Cluster switch , if I try to remove it

Anyone else managed to fix this problem and if so How?

Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

[Lamonster]

You might want to check with your dealer first and have them contact BRP. They have tightened up the specs on those now. As far as taking it apart it should be no problem.

My Left hand Cluster (RECC) is loose

The bolts have been checked and are as tight as they will go

I would like to take the Cluster off and Pack it out with Tape or Rubber and refit it to make it tight

Can I just undo the bolts and the Cluster will seperate to allow access

Will I have a problem with springs, Contacts etc within the Cluster switch , if I try to remove it

Anyone else managed to fix this problem and if so How?

Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

[NancysToy]

You might want to check with your dealer first and have them contact BRP. They have tightened up the specs on those now. As far as taking it apart it should be no problem.

Both handlebar controls had to be replaced on my 2010, under warranty.

[smurfette]

My dealership replaced it under warranty. They got a service bulletin on it I believe..

[Marker]

I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

I've noticed on my '10 Spyder RT-S that the left-hand control cluster ... the cluster that includes the mode button, turn signal control, windscreen adjustment, mode-directional up/down/left/right ... seems loose. It's not 'flopping around' or anything and all the external screws are in place, while there was some room to tighten a little. The 'looseness' means that the assembly is able to move up/down around its axis on the handle bar by aobut 1/4 to 3/8th inch. Its position affects how solidly my thumb hits the turn signal. I try to nudge the cluster position to it's highest point which works the best. But is this normal, and if it isn't how does one tighten its position on the the steering/handle bar?

*Help*?

Thanks

Hi

I had the exact same issue as you are experiencing and the cluster would not tighten when my dealer tried to tighten it . My dealer had to replace the cluster under warranty and now the new cluster is tight and does not move. You need to contact your dealer and have your 's cluster replaced

[canam9]

It may not hurt anything, but it sure can leave a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach, or distract you and possibly cause an accident. When it gets bad, and you go to push a control like the headlight dimmer, windshield height, or kill switch, and the darned thing moves away from you rather than performing the required function, it is unsafe...IMO. I would lean on the dealer for replacement or an alternate, permanent fix.

[cougar]

My dealership replaced it under warranty. They got a service bulletin on it I believe..

Same here.

[eddieshep999]

Some of the torx bolts which secures both halfs of the handlebar cluster together have started to become rounded off -
Just wanted to ensure they are fully screwed up
I would like to replace and damaged ones - can someone just confirm the size needed

e.g M4 X 20 or M5 x 15 etc

Just want to make sure I get the correct size so I can replace any as a straight swap out

Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK