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Sounds good, but does has anyone seen where can it be pruchased in Florida?
I am using Mobile 1 now in my RT and it has the correct API Service SL.
Purchased at Wal-Mart for $28.00 5 Qt container 10-W-40.
Thanks for the update. C-YA RL
Last edited by InspectorGadget; 03-04-2011 at 01:15 PM.
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At least one member here has had a clutch failure as a result of using this new formulation. That puzzles me, and may be coincidence, but until I see more evidence that this oil works, it is off my preferred list. Please also keep in mind that this oil is marked with an API SM rating, which is expressly prohibited by BRP. Any oil-related failure when using this oil, would likely not be warrantied. Use at your own risk.
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It was me that had the clutch fail. My mechanic was very positive it was the oil, Mobil 1 4t motorcycle oil. I was very lucky they warranted the failure but was told not a second time. Staying with BRP from now on. I know there are other brands but I just dont want to pay in excess of $500.00 for a replacement clutch.
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Is this oil ok to use???
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
willy
When the going gets tough...Downshift..
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Originally Posted by billythekidd
Is this oil ok to use???
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
willy
Not in my opinion! BRP specifies a full synthetic or synthetic blend with a viscosity of 5W-40. While 10W-40 shouldn't pose problems, 20W-50 is too heavy, IMO.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by billythekidd
Is this oil ok to use???
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
willy
When I had issues using Rotella on the way to Sturgis I replaced it with that oil and it worked fine and saved my clutch. I'm still running that clutch and didn't have to change it out like I thought I would. I have 50K on the Spyder now and I think that was at 20K or so if I remember right.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...hlight=rotella
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Originally Posted by sandrunr1
It was me that had the clutch fail. My mechanic was very positive it was the oil, Mobil 1 4t motorcycle oil. I was very lucky they warranted the failure but was told not a second time. Staying with BRP from now on. I know there are other brands but I just dont want to pay in excess of $500.00 for a replacement clutch.
1 question...how hard do you ride? A clutch failure could be due to a faulty component (my bet since they fixed it), abusing it "I ride it like I stole it" or wrong oil.
As has been pointed out the clutch is a wear item and as such its service life will vary greatly depending on use. I just find it hard to believe that Mobil would screw their bike oil up that bad
RAL
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Mobile 1 4T 10 w 40 motorcycle oil
Originally Posted by NancysToy
At least one member here has had a clutch failure as a result of using this new formulation. That puzzles me, and may be coincidence, but until I see more evidence that this oil works, it is off my preferred list. Please also keep in mind that this oil is marked with an API SM rating, which is expressly prohibited by BRP. Any oil-related failure when using this oil, would likely not be warrantied. Use at your own risk.
I seriously doubt that if he was indeed was using Mobile 1 4t motorcycle oil and not Mobil auto oil he would have had any problems, I have used the
4T in all my wet clutch bikes for years and used it in my 2008 GS sm5 exclusively for 2 yrs. with no problems and now in my 2010 RT-S SM5, I swear by this oil, Someone on here said he bought Gallon or 5 qt container
for 28.00 I have only seen the 4T motorcycle oil in Quart bottles @ 9.00 ea. he better use that reg Mobile 1 oil in his Auto not Spyder
Freebob...
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Originally Posted by MMcc
I understand the warranty restrictions but my question is. If I change the oil and filters myself based on mileage and I use oil that meets the BRP specs but not BRP oil and there is a clutch failure. 1. How would they know which oil was used? 2. Suppose that I use a oil of higher viscosity and have a failure, how would they know ?
In theory I could use any brand/viscosity when I change and if there was a problem it would be simple to then put in the BRP oil and say that is what I always use.
I do keep my receipts for filters and oil purchases just in case but without chemical analysis it would be very difficult to prove that you used the "wrong" oil.
Your receipt should show the type of oil, in this computer age. At any rate, the burden of proof would be on you, if you did your own service, to show that the oil used met the specs, and was changed in a timely fashion. In reality, it would, indeed, take chemical tests for positive proof, but it is your receipts and records that they would look at...and question. Like I said, use at your own risk.
Originally Posted by freebob
I seriously doubt that if he was indeed was using Mobile 1 4t motorcycle oil and not Mobil auto oil he would have had any problems, I have used the
4T in all my wet clutch bikes for years and used it in my 2008 GS sm5 exclusively for 2 yrs. with no problems and now in my 2010 RT-S SM5, I swear by this oil, Someone on here said he bought Gallon or 5 qt container
for 28.00 I have only seen the 4T motorcycle oil in Quart bottles @ 9.00 ea. he better use that reg Mobile 1 oil in his Auto not Spyder
Freebob...
I have used the old Mobil1 4T formulation. It worked just fine with wet clutches. With a JASO MA rating, the new stuff should, too. The API SM rating remains a mystery, however. An oil meeting JASO MA should not meet API SM standards, and vice versa...at least that has never been able to be done before. Unfortunately, we have little user data on this new oil in a Spyder. What we have shows problems. That is good enough for me to avoid using it in a Spyder until there is some experience with the new stuff.
I am beginning to wonder if the difference lies in the peculiarities of the Spyder clutch. Yes, it is a wet clutch, but it is not conventional. Dry sump engines usually do not have wet clutches...at least not the old stuff I am used to, or my BMWs. The SE5s have shown some sensitivity of the clutch and shifting mechanism to low oil levels. This is not typical, and it may have to do with the fact that the Spyder clutch does not ride in a full sump oil bath, but in a smaller amount of trapped oil, with an additional pressure feed. Just speculating wildly, but the added stresses from this arrangement might make the properties of the oil more critical. I am a mechanic, not an oil scientist, so I am just guessing here. In reality, who knows?
At any rate, I prefer to use an oil that meets the BRP specs, and change it at specified intervals, to assure that my warranty remains intact. Others will havbe to make their own choices.
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I changed my oil last summer and put in the Mobil 4T and notice that my clutch was slipping, today I drained it all out and replaced it with Motul 300V 4T racing oil. Later today I will ride and see how it is, just hope I did not damage the clutch with the Mobil oil in it.
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Valvoline/1 qt. SAE 10W-40 4T 4-Stroke full synthetic motorcycle oil
Here is the oil that is full synthetic by Valvoline
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Originally Posted by Rover's Spider
Link doesn't work.
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I see that a photo of the Valvoline front label has already been posted; thanks. Attached is a photo of the rear label but it may not be very legible because of small print size - I shot it horizontally in order to get more of a closeup but it's looks as if it will still be mostly too small to read. The part number is listed as 507679.
Originally I had suggested this might be an excellent oil choice for our Spyders, especially for anyone concerned about potential warranty issues with Mobil 1 4T because of its SM rating. Based on the Valvoline specs, especially the lack of the SM rating, does anyone else have an opinion, pro or con? I used Mobil 1 for my first oil change but plan to go with the Valvoline in the future as it doesn't seem wise to me to use an oil with a rating specifically prohibited by BRP in the owner's manual.
Mike
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I am going to look for this locally. The Net says that Advance Auto carries it here...Autozone says it is not available. It would make a good substitute for the BMW oil in my Beemer. BMWs don't even like SL oils, and the SG label is hard to find. I agree that it is not so wise to use an oil that conflicts with the written spec...even if the manufacturer of the oil says it is OK. Be aware that 10W-40 does not meet the written spec, either, however. I'll probably try the Valvoline at Nancy's next oil change...if I can find it. Their dino oil has always been excellent in my other cycles.
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