Fixed HORRIBLE Squeaking Rear Brakes

[Questions]

Well my rear pads started to really squeal bad at stops now and again (usually at the most embarrassing time), along with slight chirping sounds from the front pads. Sick of hearing that horrible noise and from reading others posts I attempted to remedy the situation. Well I didn't have CRC brake squeak stop GOO available at home so I decided to improvise. I decided to use black electrical tape(Regular found at True Value) on the back of the Generation 1 rear brake pads. Nothing else was done, didn't clean the rotor, didn't spring the pads apart, didn't adjust anything, except lube the slides and apply a single layer of black ELECTRICAL TAPE. I have driven over 100 miles so far not ONE PEEP FROM THAT REAR BRAKE PAD SO FAR on two different days. I will keep everyone posted on my experiment. I will do my front pads later to see if they will benefit from my .79 retrofit.

[manoman14]

Nice fix. That is the way to grab the bull by the horns and try something new. Sometimes the best fixes are the simplest ones!

[ThreeWheels]

Have you tried beveling the leading edge of the brake pads ?

That's worked for me in the past.

[M2Wild]

Make sure the e-tape don't melt off when heated up. Plastic and metal don't tend to mix well.

[NancysToy]

I have to recommend strongly against this approach! Yes, it works, because it pads the back of the brake, reducing the vibrations that cause the noise, but it has a safety issue. This tape is not rated at a high enough temperature to prevent a possible fire! If you use the brakes hard, especially in hot weather, you could catch the tape on fire. This could easily spread to the Spyder itself...or adversely affect the braking system to the point that you have no brakes. Never, ever, ever use a product on brakes that is not designed for brake use! You are taking the lives of yourself and others into your hands when you do.

[Questions]

Well I put another 45 miles of city stop and go driving today on the Spyder. Still no Squeaks. I must state that this is my personal experiment wanting to see if vibrations between the pad and caliper were to blame for the squeak. I think this confirms surface dust on the rotor, type of pad material,etc are not responsible for the horrific rear brake squeals(IN MY CASE). I looked at the electrical tape on the pad and it is not shriveled/melted seems to be intact. Let me leave this disclaimer since disclaimers must be ALWAYS stated nowadays; Do not try this at home and always carry a fire extinguisher.
Long Live the Republic!

[bruiser]

Are you sure it's not related to Ratigans problem!

[SpyderRider]

Well as they always say, "Duck and Electrical Tape are a mans best friend!"

[Bob Denman]

What sort of tape is stout enough to take the heat and perhaps also quell the vibrations??

[Marker]

I have to recommend strongly against this approach! Yes, it works, because it pads the back of the brake, reducing the vibrations that cause the noise, but it has a safety issue. This tape is not rated at a high enough temperature to prevent a possible fire! If you use the barkes hard, especially in hot weather, you could catch the tape on fire. This could easily spread to the Spyder itself...or adversely affect the braking system to the point that you have no brakes. Never, ever, ever use a product on brakes that is not designed for brake use! You are taking the lives of yourself and others into your hands when you do.

My spyder cost too much to try experiments on it esp using improper materials for the experiment. Just my $.02 worth

[bcspyder]

What sort of tape is stout enough to take the heat and perhaps also quell the vibrations??

Please don't use tape. I like to hot rod stuff as much as the next guy but this is just a little too "backyard". Use a brake squeal compound and be done with it. I have several thousand K's and no squeaks, I used a product that only cost a couple of bucks instead of a few cents and is designed for the heat from a brake system. Remember that a brake system can generate enough heat to boil the fluid, so what do you think will happen to tape??? What if it binds up and forces the pad against the rotor?? Certainly if you can afford a Spyder you can pick up a $5 can of brake squeal. You have to take it apart either way....

[jmkipp]

Do you get a brake squeal compound from a auto supply store and what do you ask for

[bullant12]

Do you get a brake squeal compound from a auto supply store and what do you ask for

Auto Zone sells a brake lubricant that is pretty effective. I have used it one time on my RT and so far . However, I am not close to my garage to tell you the name and I have searched all over the forums because that is where I got the brand name. Once I get home I will post it in this thread.

[NancysToy]

Do you get a brake squeal compound from a auto supply store and what do you ask for

CRC manufactures two different compounds, either of which may help. It is acceptable to use either, or both. They are available at most auto parts stores.

CRC De-Squeak Brake Conditioning Treatment is a spray product containing aluminum and graphite. It is sprayed onto both sides of the rotors. (Be very careful not to get it on anything else!) Ride slowly, and apply the brakes several times to burnish it in. It fills the tiny scratches and pits in the rotor, that can set up vibrations. IMO, it reduces the braking efficiency slightly.

CRC Disk Brake Quiet is a rubbery compound. It is applied to the back of the brake pads, evenly, after they are removed from the vehicle. Let it dry, then reinstall the pads. The rubbery backing acts as an insulating shim, reducing vibrations that cause noise. Use of this material was BRP's first fix for the squealing brakes, before the Gen 2, and then the Gen 3, pads. I use it, and it works pretty well...but is not necessarily a cure-all.

While you are at the auto parts store, pick up a can of CRC Brakleen. Either these treatments should only be applied to brakes that have been thoroughly cleaned and blown dry. In my experience, periodic cleaning alone helps keep the brakes quiet.

You should also pick up some CRC Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease, or another disk brake lube, if you disassemble the brakes to apply Disc Brake Quiet. The caliper pins and bushings should be inspected and carefully lubed, so the calipers slide easily. You will often find that dried brake sleeve (rubber) bushings are the cause of a lot of brake noise.

[boborgera]

CRC manufactures two different compounds, either of which may help. It is acceptable to use either, or both. They are available at most auto parts stores.

CRC De-Squeak Brake Conditioning Treatment is a spray product containing aluminum and graphite. It is sprayed onto both sides of the rotors. (Be very careful not to get it on anything else!) Ride slowly, and apply the brakes several times to burnish it in. It fills the tiny scratches and pits in the rotor, that can set up vibrations. IMO, it reduces the braking efficiency slightly.

CRC Disk Brake Quiet is a rubbery compound. It is applied to the back of the brake pads, evenly, after they are removed from the vehicle. Let it dry, then reinstall the pads. The rubbery backing acts as an insulating shim, reducing vibrations that cause noise. Use of this material was BRP's first fix for the squealing brakes, before the Gen 2, and then the Gen 3, pads. I use it, and it works pretty well...but is not necessarily a cure-all.

While you are at the auto parts store, pick up a can of CRC Brakleen. Either these treatments should only be applied to brakes that have been thoroughly cleaned and blown dry. In my experience, periodic cleaning alone helps keep the brakes quiet.

You should also pick up some CRC Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease, or another disk brake lube, if you disassemble the brakes to apply Disc Brake Quiet. The caliper pins and bushings should be inspected and carefully lubed, so the calipers slide easily. You will often find that dried brake sleeve (rubber) bushings are the cause of a lot of brake noise.

For what it's worth, I've tried all of the above, Plus a few other things.
And all of them had to be revisited from time to time ;ie washing the wheels, going though mud sand and going through salt puddles left over from snow removal.
Finally went with Gen 3 pads, 3 thousand + miles not even a peep.

[NancysToy]

For what it's worth, I've tried all of the above, Plus a few other things.
And all of them had to be revisited from time to time ;ie washing the wheels, going though mud sand and going through salt puddles left over from snow removal.

Finally went with Gen 3 pads, 3 thousand + miles not even a peep.

When the time comes, I am looking forward to these for the 2008. For now, applying the brakes hard from time to time, keeping them clean, Disc Brake Quiet, and Tatt2r's rear brake return spring trick, keep Nancy's Spyder quiet most of the time. My 2010 RTS had fewer brake noise problems, save an occasional bout due to the humidity or the morning after riding in wet weather. I expect the 2011 will be pretty good, with the Gen 3 brakes as standard issue.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks! We used to just cut grooves in the pads with hacksaws...
Anything to change the vibration characteristics of the brake...

[draboo]

After I replaced the pads on our first spyder, ol' #200, they still made some noise.

Our '10 RT is almost brake noise free. Once in a great while we get a howl when backing up, especially after its been sitting for awhile.

[M2Wild]

we get a howl when backing up, especially after its been sitting for awhile.

Dat the back up warning device?