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Unbolt the old, bolt in the new. It is that easy. I went right to the max setting and love it. A little firm but much better in the corners. Kind of like a stock BMW turned into an "M" car.
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Originally Posted by Raptor
Dude, go with the shocks and the springs. Makes all the difference in the world in terms of handling characteristics. But I charge pretty hard, so for me it's the preferred setup. Others may like a softer ride. I went with the 2010 assemblies, as the 2011's are stiffer yet and may make the ride feel a bit too hard. But you can always back the preload off a little.
I had my dealer install them for me. They hooked me up for 40 bucks! As I recall they had to change something to make the RT shocks/Springs fit the RS. I can't remember what it was at the moment, but I can find out easily for you if you like.
Yeah please do as it makes it easier for those who don't know.
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Senile Member
Great thread. I am keeping my eyes on this one.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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Most folks use both the 2010 RT springs and shocks. The RT springs have a higher rate than the RS springs. The RT shocks have stronger compression dampening, and possibly other changes. Your experiment with the RT shocks and the RS springs sounds interesting. Let us know how it turns out. BTW, the change in the adjusters may be because the old ones broke so often.
Last edited by NancysToy; 02-03-2011 at 09:06 PM.
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That was a great explanation, Scotty. I am also interested to see how the RT shock/RS spring combo is going to turn out. It actually sounds promising!
One other thing to note is that I also replaced the stock sway bar with the Evo performance sway bar. It's a very simple swap and teamed up with the shock/spring replacement made a significant improvement in chassis roll. I would recommend that also...
Last edited by Raptor; 02-03-2011 at 11:34 AM.
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Very Active Member
Happy owner of Silver PE #1232
All The Gear All The Time - ATGATT
Gulf Coast SpyderRyders
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Originally Posted by Raptor
As I recall they had to change something to make the RT shocks/Springs fit the RS. I can't remember what it was at the moment, but I can find out easily for you if you like.
OK Everyone, here is the scoop!
The part that had to be changed was the Top cap that holds the spring in place. It had to be changed because the RT spring is beefier and therefore has a different diameter than the RS spring. The shock itself was a direct replacement. So because I was going with the RT spring as well as the shock, the caps had to be replaced accordingly. Somehow they just were not ordered, as shocks and springs are different assemblies and are not sold as a single, assembled unit. This of course means you will need a spring compressor to do this job. I guess this is kind of obvious though!
So, if one wanted to replace the RS shock with the RT shock but retain the RS spring, keep the original RS spring retainer cap and you should be good to go!
Last edited by Raptor; 02-03-2011 at 06:04 PM.
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I bought the shocks with the springs already on them. So that made the swap pretty easy. I don't think there would be any difference with the RT shock and the RS springs. It's kind of a package deal. I have the RT shocks/springs set at the stiffest setting. I love it that way.
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Well this sucks... I am rather bummed. Sounds like I will feel zero change for my money and should have only paid $60 ish for new springs instead...
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The shocks and springs are different for the RS and RT. That is not to say that an RS shock can't be used with an RT spring and vice versa. The adjuster rings and caps must be coordinated with the springs for each. That being said, I'm also curious about trying the RT shocks with the RS springs. I would also love to see someone who has both try the RS shocks with the RT springs. It is a less expensive way to go if the results can be had.
I wish BRP would chime in on this topic.
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Originally Posted by IWN2RYD
Well this sucks... I am rather bummed. Sounds like I will feel zero change for my money and should have only paid $60 ish for new springs instead...
Don't be bummed. Trust me, you will feel the difference. Use the entire RT shock/spring assembly. It is a great mprovement...well worth the money. Elka-like performance for a fraction of the cost.
Remember, if you swap the entire assembly, this only takes a half hour or so. If you don't like it, you can change back to stock, and sell the RT shocks. Someone will want them. What do you have to lose but a bit of your time?
Last edited by NancysToy; 02-04-2011 at 08:41 AM.
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SpyderLovers Founder
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RT Shocks
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I defintely think you will feel an improvement. The RT shock is a better shock than the RS shock for sure, even without the associated spring. I think it will be a kind of "middle ground". It just might provide a better ride without it getting too hard for you. Add the sway bar upgrade and you will be doing great I'm sure! You will definitely have to keep us posted...
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Very Active Member
The RT springs are MUCH beefier ---- and pretty cheap.
When I did mine I ordered the springs, shocks, adjustment cams and top plates-- then had a buddy who owns a local auto repair shop compress the springs and mount them on the shocks.
Then it was just 30 minutes to swap them with my old shocks.
LOVE the ride.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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