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Active Member
Rear wheel removal
Ok yes it a really basic question for some of you guys but how hard is it to remove and re-install the rear wheel on a rs spider. I am playing on doing some mods this winter and I would like to chrome or powder coat my rims and trying to get a feel if I should attempt the rear wheel. Thank in advance!!
Open up your Mind and let your Fantasies Unwind!
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Registered Users
It's not too big of a job. The belt alignment is the hardest part. Just get a copy of the shop manual, so you have all the proper torque specs.
Old Spyder Mods:
No Magic Neon Triple Play II, Leo Vince SBK Exhaust, MMG Backrest, BRP Seat Skin, XOPRODOX Grips & Throttle Rocker, Paint By Tallant's Hot Rods, Kewl Metal Air Filter, Juice Box, Evoluzione O2 Mod, DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap, Ride Wright Mojo Wheels and Pulley, Custom Handlebars, Relocated Ignition Switch, Madstad Robo Brackets, Evoluzione Swaybar, RT Shocks/Springs, Toyo R1R, Odyssey Battery, Lowered Shock Mount, SFB Floorboards, Fenderless w/ Custom License Bracket.
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Motorbike Professor
.....And don't forget to properly mask the critical parts where you don't want chrome or the powder coat. It will cause interference issues.
BTW, if you want to powdercoat to black, it may be easier to just buy the accessory parts from BRP.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
I copied these instructions from an earlier post that I can't find at the moment. They worked great for me. I added Step 1A and made a note at the beginning of Step 3. All the credit goes to the original poster!
Changing Rear Tire1. Remove the four 13mm hex head bolts from the rear brake caliper and tie the caliper up out of the way.
1A. Remove the lower bolt from the rear shock.
2. Using a 36mm socket on the right and another 36mm wrench on the left, loosen the axle nut on the right.
3. DON'T DO THIS STEP AND BELT TENSION WILL BE GOOD. I STILL HAD THE DEALER CHECK MINE AFTER AND IT WAS TOO TIGHT. Loosen the two (2) belt adjustment Allen-head screws by about five to seven full turns. Keep track of how many turns... will use later to re-install. MAY NOT NEED THIS STEP4. If you're running a stock rear fender, remove the four fender Torx bolts and the fender itself.5. Now, complete the loosening and removal of the axle nut in (2) above.6. Jack the bike up just enough to remove the rear tire from the ground. Remove the axle to the leftif needed, use a Phillips screwdriver or punch to push the axle out.7. Slip the drive belt off of the rear sprocket to the left. If you didn't loosen the adjusters in (3) above,do it now or you won't be able to remove the belt.8. Remove the wheel/tire by rolling straight back between the rear fender supports.9. If needed, remove the rear sprocket from the wheel by pulling straight out. A jiggle or three might beneeded in alternating spots around the sprocket. It's a force-fit between rubber dampeners in the wheel hub.Before reassembling in reverse order, check the bearings on both sides of the wheel and thedrive sprocket with your finders... they should turn easily with no binding or "clicks".Also check to make sure that the o-ring on the hub is intact and lubricated before you slide the beltdrive back on. Go slow and "wiggle it" to ensure that you don't break the o-ring (I did, once).
Ryde Safe!
"There are two things you can never get back. A word after it is said and time after it is gone."
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I just got done replacing my rear tire. Removed wheel and went right back on without belt issues. If you want pictures and my steps let me know..
On going mods..
Can-Am fog lights, foot peg ext., back rest, spoke wheels. Kewlmetal windshield trim, mirror ext., highway peg mounts. Heli bar riser. Tricfender lights. LED's in frunk and fender tips. Red Glowrider wheel lights. Modified tag light. Glowire "Spyder" on bumper. Hindle exhaust. Soft saddle bags. Brite Thread pin striping. Orginal yellow paint redone in gloss black. Crampbusters on both grips. Driving lights on fender mounts.
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cheeseologist
Getting mixed signals about removal of rear tire on my 2019 Spyder RT. Want to be sure before I make a fool of myself
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cheeseologist
Getting mixed signals about removal of rear tire on my 2019 Spyder RT. Want to be sure before I make a fool of myself
Hahaha ..... I think you have just set the record for resurrecting the oldest thread, Cheeseologist . Things have changed a bit since 2010. What exactly are your concerns?
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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some remove the bolt for the shock and some don't for one thing. And having the right tools to loosen that axle bolt
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mikey
Some times I forget to look at the dates of the posts and get pulled in myself
Hahaha...your’e not alone, Mikey.
Cheeseologist, Mikey has covered a lot above. Taking the shock bolt out allows you to remove the belt without impacting the axle alignment adjusters, which is a bonus. But you DO have to lift the bike to the millimetre to slide the bolt out. Also, with the 2019, you are probably going to have to deal with 160ftlbs of torque on the axle bolt. This is a LOT. I needed a long breaker bar to undo the nut/bolt, and needed to use the extension on the torque wrench when reinstalling. As Mikey says, allow plenty of time, and rake constant photos of where everything goes. I think it took me a couple of hours to remove it the first time, going very slowly.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
A substitute for 36 mm wrench is a 1 and 7/16 inch wrench. That is what i use. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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