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  1. #1
    Active Member mclaw44's Avatar
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    Default Rear wheel removal

    Ok yes it a really basic question for some of you guys but how hard is it to remove and re-install the rear wheel on a rs spider. I am playing on doing some mods this winter and I would like to chrome or powder coat my rims and trying to get a feel if I should attempt the rear wheel. Thank in advance!!
    Open up your Mind and let your Fantasies Unwind!

  2. #2
    Registered Users SSG Bean's Avatar
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    It's not too big of a job. The belt alignment is the hardest part. Just get a copy of the shop manual, so you have all the proper torque specs.
    Old Spyder Mods:
    No Magic Neon Triple Play II, Leo Vince SBK Exhaust, MMG Backrest, BRP Seat Skin, XOPRODOX Grips & Throttle Rocker, Paint By Tallant's Hot Rods, Kewl Metal Air Filter, Juice Box, Evoluzione O2 Mod, DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap, Ride Wright Mojo Wheels and Pulley, Custom Handlebars, Relocated Ignition Switch, Madstad Robo Brackets, Evoluzione Swaybar, RT Shocks/Springs, Toyo R1R, Odyssey Battery, Lowered Shock Mount, SFB Floorboards, Fenderless w/ Custom License Bracket.

  3. #3
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    .....And don't forget to properly mask the critical parts where you don't want chrome or the powder coat. It will cause interference issues.

    BTW, if you want to powdercoat to black, it may be easier to just buy the accessory parts from BRP.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Texmac1011's Avatar
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    I copied these instructions from an earlier post that I can't find at the moment. They worked great for me. I added Step 1A and made a note at the beginning of Step 3. All the credit goes to the original poster!

    Changing Rear Tire1. Remove the four 13mm hex head bolts from the rear brake caliper and tie the caliper up out of the way.
    1A. Remove the lower bolt from the rear shock.

    2. Using a 36mm socket on the right and another 36mm wrench on the left, loosen the axle nut on the right.
    3. DON'T DO THIS STEP AND BELT TENSION WILL BE GOOD. I STILL HAD THE DEALER CHECK MINE AFTER AND IT WAS TOO TIGHT. Loosen the two (2) belt adjustment Allen-head screws by about five to seven full turns. Keep track of how many turns... will use later to re-install. MAY NOT NEED THIS STEP4. If you're running a stock rear fender, remove the four fender Torx bolts and the fender itself.5. Now, complete the loosening and removal of the axle nut in (2) above.6. Jack the bike up just enough to remove the rear tire from the ground. Remove the axle to the leftif needed, use a Phillips screwdriver or punch to push the axle out.7. Slip the drive belt off of the rear sprocket to the left. If you didn't loosen the adjusters in (3) above,do it now or you won't be able to remove the belt.8. Remove the wheel/tire by rolling straight back between the rear fender supports.9. If needed, remove the rear sprocket from the wheel by pulling straight out. A jiggle or three might beneeded in alternating spots around the sprocket. It's a force-fit between rubber dampeners in the wheel hub.Before reassembling in reverse order, check the bearings on both sides of the wheel and thedrive sprocket with your finders... they should turn easily with no binding or "clicks".Also check to make sure that the o-ring on the hub is intact and lubricated before you slide the beltdrive back on. Go slow and "wiggle it" to ensure that you don't break the o-ring (I did, once).
    Ryde Safe!

    "There are two things you can never get back. A word after it is said and time after it is gone."

  6. #6
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    I just got done replacing my rear tire. Removed wheel and went right back on without belt issues. If you want pictures and my steps let me know..
    On going mods..
    Can-Am fog lights, foot peg ext., back rest, spoke wheels. Kewlmetal windshield trim, mirror ext., highway peg mounts. Heli bar riser. Tricfender lights. LED's in frunk and fender tips. Red Glowrider wheel lights. Modified tag light. Glowire "Spyder" on bumper. Hindle exhaust. Soft saddle bags. Brite Thread pin striping. Orginal yellow paint redone in gloss black. Crampbusters on both grips. Driving lights on fender mounts.

  7. #7
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    Default cheeseologist

    Getting mixed signals about removal of rear tire on my 2019 Spyder RT. Want to be sure before I make a fool of myself

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeseologist View Post
    Getting mixed signals about removal of rear tire on my 2019 Spyder RT. Want to be sure before I make a fool of myself
    Hahaha ..... I think you have just set the record for resurrecting the oldest thread, Cheeseologist . Things have changed a bit since 2010. What exactly are your concerns?

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  9. #9
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    Default

    some remove the bolt for the shock and some don't for one thing. And having the right tools to loosen that axle bolt

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    If you don't have the 36mm wrenches you can use two large adjustables, as far as the shock bolt they say it's easyer to get the wheel out if you do remove the bolt first! And if you have the air ride system make sure you unhook your little arm on the adjuster before you take the shock bolt out or you'll brake the arm or switch and you don't want that! Other than that, just watch the video's a couple times and take it slow, be safe and you can do it!!!
    P.S If you have questions about a project you got planed you don't need to drag out the old posts, make your own!!! Some times I forget to look at the dates of the posts and get pulled in myself
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Some times I forget to look at the dates of the posts and get pulled in myself
    Hahaha...your’e not alone, Mikey.
    Cheeseologist, Mikey has covered a lot above. Taking the shock bolt out allows you to remove the belt without impacting the axle alignment adjusters, which is a bonus. But you DO have to lift the bike to the millimetre to slide the bolt out. Also, with the 2019, you are probably going to have to deal with 160ftlbs of torque on the axle bolt. This is a LOT. I needed a long breaker bar to undo the nut/bolt, and needed to use the extension on the torque wrench when reinstalling. As Mikey says, allow plenty of time, and rake constant photos of where everything goes. I think it took me a couple of hours to remove it the first time, going very slowly.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  12. #12
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    A substitute for 36 mm wrench is a 1 and 7/16 inch wrench. That is what i use. Bruce
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
    Gone but not forgotten
    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


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