I changed my back tire this weekend

[bluestratos]

I got just a bit over 14K on my back tire, if it had been spring I would have been good for a couple thousand more but as fall has fell I decided to mount my Kumo AST. Pulling the old tire was pretty easy, I put the front wheels up on ramps then jacked up the rear end about 18" off the ground with a large bottle jack and blocks. I took out the two bolts that hold the break caliper in place and suspende the calper assembly to avoid putting strain on the hydraulic line. I put my floor jack under the back tire then took out the lower bolt from the back shock and slid the drive belt off than pulled the axle bit lifting and lowering the tire to get slack on the belt. This took about 1/2 an hour to drop the tire. 15 mins later I had the drive pully off and the hub (you do not need to remove the break disc if you have a flex head ratchet) then I took it to my brother inlaw's tire shop, Zelstra Tire in Lynden WA (bought the tire there as well) and they change the tire for me.

I reinstalled the hub (had to leave the pully off as the wheel ballancer was not wide enough with it on) and then balanced the tire using a Harbour Frieght motorcycle tire balancer which took way too long until I figured out the axle shaft they supplied was slightly bent. I cut a new axle out of some scrap I had on hand and was able to get the balancing done in less than a minute after that. Next came the pully, it was had to slide back into place so I coated the O ring and dampers with a small amount of grease after which it slid back on effortlessly.

Reinstalling the back tire was not bad, I rolled the tire under the bike then put my other floor jack under it and jacked it up until the axle holes lined up then slid the axle in place. The caliper mount has to slide in between the break disc and the bike frame so using the jack this made it easy. Leaving the jack in place I was then able to raise and lower the tire to work the belt back on to the pully then to install the bolt into the shock mount. I lightly torqed the axle nut, removed the jack then started the engine to be sure the belt was sitting correctly on the pully which it was. I then torqued the axle nut to 96 ft/lbs and was off for a test run in the pouring rain.

Excellent test run, the tire stuck like glue to the slick roads, the first rain of the season came the day before and I slid all over the road with my work truck so I was not expecting much. Man was I suprised. I came into a 20 mph corner at 30 expecting at least to feel the Nanny take control but no need. It was raining too hard to go too far but I did get up to 60 for short burst and it was great. I had the tire set at 25lbs air pressure by the way.

So, definately doable for the weekend mechanic. I had all the tools but the only thing you need is a basic set of metric sockets and wrenchs, a size 36 socket and large cresent for the axle nut, torque wrench, flex head retachet (not necessary but helps) jacks and floor ramps. Doing it yourself will save enought to pay for the tools the first them so if necessary, it is still a good way to go. I completed the work alone but some steps would be nice to have a good helper if you have one (my good helper was baby sitting the grand kids, lol... way too much help in this case so I choose to go it alone).
Well thats my story and I am sticking to it, lol...

Regards,

Randy

[Bob Denman]

Now you're just going to have to report back with a long-term tire test on the Kumho...

[bluestratos]

Yup, you know I will. I was acutally pretty happy with the stock tire for the millage I got considering how I load and ride the RT.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yup, you know I will. I was acutally pretty happy with the stock tire for the millage I got considering how I load and ride the RT.

Curious about what type of machine they used on the rear wheel/tire......I have had difficulty finding any car/trk shops that can do it with their equipement ?????......Mike

[lyonsden]

Curious about what type of machine they used on the rear wheel/tire......I have had difficulty finding any car/trk shops that can do it with their equipement ?????......Mike

Sam's Club must have the right machine. They mounted mine.

[rcturner]

I got just a bit over 14K on my back tire, if it had been spring I would have been good for a couple thousand more but as fall has fell I decided to mount my Kumo AST. Pulling the old tire was pretty easy, I put the front wheels up on ramps then jacked up the rear end about 18" off the ground with a large bottle jack and blocks. I took out the two bolts that hold the break caliper in place and suspende the calper assembly to avoid putting strain on the hydraulic line. I put my floor jack under the back tire then took out the lower bolt from the back shock and slid the drive belt off than pulled the axle bit lifting and lowering the tire to get slack on the belt. This took about 1/2 an hour to drop the tire. 15 mins later I had the drive pully off and the hub (you do not need to remove the break disc if you have a flex head ratchet) then I took it to my brother inlaw's tire shop, Zelstra Tire in Lynden WA (bought the tire there as well) and they change the tire for me.

I reinstalled the hub (had to leave the pully off as the wheel ballancer was not wide enough with it on) and then balanced the tire using a Harbour Frieght motorcycle tire balancer which took way too long until I figured out the axle shaft they supplied was slightly bent. I cut a new axle out of some scrap I had on hand and was able to get the balancing done in less than a minute after that. Next came the pully, it was had to slide back into place so I coated the O ring and dampers with a small amount of grease after which it slid back on effortlessly.

Reinstalling the back tire was not bad, I rolled the tire under the bike then put my other floor jack under it and jacked it up until the axle holes lined up then slid the axle in place. The caliper mount has to slide in between the break disc and the bike frame so using the jack this made it easy. Leaving the jack in place I was then able to raise and lower the tire to work the belt back on to the pully then to install the bolt into the shock mount. I lightly torqed the axle nut, removed the jack then started the engine to be sure the belt was sitting correctly on the pully which it was. I then torqued the axle nut to 96 ft/lbs and was off for a test run in the pouring rain.

Excellent test run, the tire stuck like glue to the slick roads, the first rain of the season came the day before and I slid all over the road with my work truck so I was not expecting much. Man was I suprised. I came into a 20 mph corner at 30 expecting at least to feel the Nanny take control but no need. It was raining too hard to go too far but I did get up to 60 for short burst and it was great. I had the tire set at 25lbs air pressure by the way.

So, definately doable for the weekend mechanic. I had all the tools but the only thing you need is a basic set of metric sockets and wrenchs, a size 36 socket and large cresent for the axle nut, torque wrench, flex head retachet (not necessary but helps) jacks and floor ramps. Doing it yourself will save enought to pay for the tools the first them so if necessary, it is still a good way to go. I completed the work alone but some steps would be nice to have a good helper if you have one (my good helper was baby sitting the grand kids, lol... way too much help in this case so I choose to go it alone).
Well thats my story and I am sticking to it, lol...

Regards,

Randy

Did you do anything to disconnect the air bag when you dropped the swing arm ?

[bluestratos]

They just have the old fashion type, theirs looks to be pretty well worn in, lol.. I did ask that they use the plastic jaw protectors to protect the lower rim edge and they used a second guy at one point to help protect the upper rim edge when they installed the new one. It (Spyder) is exactly the same as any car tire in that respect. The couldnot balance the tire though, that does take a special machine/adapters for such a small opening in the rim.

Curious about what type of machine they used on the rear wheel/tire......I have had difficulty finding any car/trk shops that can do it with their equipement ?????......Mike

[bluestratos]

No, I just undid the bolt and nut at the lower shock mount and removed the long bolt. This is what I had read that Mr. Lamount did so he could just slide the belt off when he changed his tire.

Did you do anything to disconnect the air bag when you dropped the swing arm ?

[jerpinoy]

Good job, I wonder if LES SWAB have the know how to balance your rear wheel?

[fastfraser]

Did you swap out the bearings at the same time and if not were they in good shape.

[rcturner]

No, I just undid the bolt and nut at the lower shock mount and removed the long bolt. This is what I had read that Mr. Lamount did so he could just slide the belt off when he changed his tire.

The video is not an RT. I don't know if it has the air bag or not but, I have been told that if you don't disconnect the sensor link that you will likely damage that unit.

[bluestratos]

I had followed Mr. Lamonts earlier discussion and did not see anything related to the sensor link but if it is required I must have lucked out as everything works fine. I had a couple more rides with it and it handles the same as the orginal but bites better in the corners on wet roads. Of course, being a fresh tire it may just be that I gradually got use to the old tire as it wore down so it would not be a fair comparison.

My Bearings were tight so I left them alone this time, next tire I will plan on a change.

Regards,

Randy

[NancysToy]

I had followed Mr. Lamonts earlier discussion and did not see anything related to the sensor link but if it is required I must have lucked out as everything works fine. I had a couple more rides with it and it handles the same as the orginal but bites better in the corners on wet roads. Of course, being a fresh tire it may just be that I gradually got use to the old tire as it wore down so it would not be a fair comparison.

My Bearings were tight so I left them alone this time, next tire I will plan on a change.

Regards,

Randy

Lamont's video was on a GS/RS, I believe. There are some slight differences. You did luck out! The plastic ACS sensor link (on the RTS or LTD) can be readily damaged or broken if it is not disconnected, when jacking the Spyder up with the rear shock disconnected. The swingarm drops too low, and the link ends up trying to take all the weight of the swingarm, wheel, and tire.

[bluestratos]

Yes, I went to the manual and see the sensor. I had the jack under the shock mount so that may have keep the wieght off of the sensor arm. Thanks Nancy's Toy

[NancysToy]

Yes, I went to the manual and see the sensor. I had the jack under the shock mount so that may have keep the wieght off of the sensor arm. Thanks Nancy's Toy

Yes, I recommend using the jack under the shock mount or flat of the swingarm. It does relieve strain on the ACS link. The link is a pain to disconnect, but that is always the safest route.

[Gordy]

if you find that it rides a little rough check the rear sensor bracket thats what gets bent ask me how I know.If its bent it is easy to remove and staightend.I never noticed any difference but the better half noticed it first ride

[johnwinslow]

i did not touch the shock on my 2011 rts when i changed the rear tire, i used the craftsman motor cycle jack under the bike toward the front edge of the catalytic converter jacked it up just enough, until the tire could just spin freely, once i had all the brake assemble and axel out, i jacked it up until the wheel would roll out. no trouble with belt removal and did not touch the belt tension adjustments, the worst part was removing my trailer hitch it was stuck. i used a craftsman bar clamp the kind with the reversiblejaws between the tire and the hitch. then just pressed it off.