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Thread: RT-S Speakers

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdminc View Post
    Hey crtravelnmore, I'd love to put these in mine too. Please let us know how it works out. Thanks!
    I will post my result in a few weeks as I'm out of the country right now. I talked to a guy on Ebay and he's gonna make some custom 12db high pass X-overs for these. I think it's going to be a great sounding

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderRider View Post
    As a long time head banger, I guess old habits are hard to break!
    I've got four high end Onkyo systems in the house, a kicking Infinity System in the 2003 Ford F-150 Harley-Davidson 100 Year collectible truck, a Polk Speaker System on the 2001 Valkyrie Interstate, so darn-it, I want my newest toy tricked out too!
    Maybe I am just > ROFL!
    I'm with you. Keep us posted.

  3. #28
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Guys,

    I should know more Monday as I am going to call BRP for the speaker specs and while I am at it I am going to ask what the wattage is for the stock HU!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

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  4. #29
    Very Active Member clueless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderRider View Post
    Guys,

    I should know more Monday as I am going to call BRP for the speaker specs and while I am at it I am going to ask what the wattage is for the stock HU!

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    polk audio is basically THE choice for this application.
    their mm521 will be a easy replacement but you will get little more out of the 5 1/4" speakers with db5251. db5251 has much better cross over but you will have to mount the tweeters either by cutting a hole for them next to the woofers or on the dashboard(it comes with a holder to mount them externally). 200 hertz bass blocker would be a bit much thou. 90 hertz at least 12db should block out distortion causing low's.

    as far as replacing the amp goes, you probably will not be able to do it as RT's amp will have spyder-specific connectors but you can add a amp with speaker level input to the factory amp but there will be cutting and splicing of factory wiring. alpine and audiocontrol makes factory sound system interface but may or may not work with spyder. if the factory amp has rca input, a line-driver and/or equalizer should do the trick without replacing the amp.
    posted wattage in car audio does not mean anything. there is no regulation on how it's measured. unlike home audio, manufacturer can put whatever they want to basically. low priced 300 watt amp may produce only 20 useable watts where mid priced amp like alpine or kenwood will produce true wattage(300 watts amp will do 300watts) and high end amps are under rated. 50 watts amp could produce 400watts or more.
    Last edited by aka1004; 08-12-2010 at 11:01 AM.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  6. #31
    Very Active Member clueless's Avatar
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    Question

    anyone confirm size yet?

  7. #32
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    I looked yesterday. the front oem speakers are 5 1/4's. The tweeter pods will fit near the corners under the grill. They rotate so you can get good imaging for those who like a "brite" tweeter. I didn't get to the backs as the grill is tough and I'm going to call BRP. I think 90hz will hinder the cleanest and be non effective with the volume 3/4's + at highway speeds. This is why I choose 200hz. Not sure I will do 12db or 18db. My goal is to use the oem amp setup with great clarity at highway speeds. I just have to find factory plugs to tie my xovers in so I don't void my extended/factory warranty.

  8. #33
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    Sorry guys as I have been after BRP on this since Monday.

    I called and after holding quite some time got through to Jonathan in Customer Service. After an hour or so asking him for the information (he really had no clue) he could only tell me the mounting holes in the rear speakers were @118.97mm which is the SAE equivalent of 4.68" of which still doesn't answer what are the REARS? He suggested I contact my dealer whom could call BRP's Tech support folk. I did this yesterday and still not a return call to dealer today over 24 hours later...frustrating!


    I cannot believe the Owners and Service Manual say nothing about the size nor wattage of the stockers. I also asked about the Spyders HU Wattage output and got nothing back here as well. Jonathan suggested I take apart the rear console to get to the speakers to measure them. I told him I did not want to do that twice as I would not want my bike apart while I ordered and waited for the replacements to come in. You would think with an excellent product such as the Spyder RT-S, they would be able to tell us some basic information!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

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  9. #34
    Active Member sinkhole's Avatar
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    Default false info...

    BRP needs to educate their tech operators. Before I purchased the RT I called to find out the overall width at the front wheels. I wanted to make sure that the Rt would fit in an alocated spot in my garage.The brochure had one dimension, and the website had another. The info I received from tech support turned out to be false... close to a foot wider than the RT actually is.
    Dave
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  10. #35
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    OK some information at last, though not what I want totally. The dealer called me to tell me the technical guy called and said the Spyder Head Unit puts out 20 Watts RMS. I guess that's a start and they said they are still checking on the speaker sizes.

    I hate to say this but this is a little funny/serious if these guys don't have a clue regarding the accessories they place on their own manufactured machines. The tech guy said he would call my dealer back as soon as he could verify the front and rear speaker sizes. I might have to just breakdown the rear to get the measurements myself!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderRider View Post
    Hey Gang,

    Anyone changed out those "premium" speakers on the RT-S yet? I've had my Spyder for a week now and ready to chuck the stock units as they sound horrible. Tinny and can't handle any bass...YUCK! Any thought or recommendations?

    I am looking at Polk Audio units but have not tore into unit yet. Does anyone know their sizes...I guess either 3 1/2" or 4"?

    Thanks in advance.
    That's odd I have yet to have anyone complain about the quality of the sound. Have you checked your audio settings? I have had people who own GoldWings say the sound quality coming from the Spyder is far Superior.

  12. #37
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garganos View Post
    That's odd I have yet to have anyone complain about the quality of the sound. Have you checked your audio settings? I have had people who own GoldWings say the sound quality coming from the Spyder is far Superior.
    I have a 2001 Honda Valkyrie Interstate (a Gold Wing with lots of chrome) and upgraded the stockers with the Polk's as you could not hear any clarity at highway speeds. The results are fabulous. Now I also have an RT-S and same thing...the stockers sound good sitting still and you can hear them OK up to about 40 mph but beyond that no clarity unless you drive the volume way up, subsequently you have trash distortion.

    Regarding my settings, yes I have "dialed" them in numerous times using various levels of bass/treble/fader settings trying to get to the "sweet spot"! I have a church audio/visual business and have been an audiophile for 40 years so I know good "sound" when I hear it. In most cases manufacturers do not put in the "best" speaker as stockers, thereby the huge aftermarket speaker/audio business. The Spyders units are good, but can be improved on greatly putting the Polk's in. They are also certified for marine use.
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

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  13. #38
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    This really helped the front sound out.

  14. #39
    Banged Up Member MouthPiece's Avatar
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    That's odd I have yet to have anyone complain about the quality of the sound. Have you checked your audio settings? I have had people who own GoldWings say the sound quality coming from the Spyder is far Superior.

    I agree 100%

  15. #40
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    I guess "Once a Head-banger, Always a Head-banger"!

    Need my tunes just right or I can't ryde straight!

    Seriously, enough other members have expressed an interest in changing out their speakers as well so there must be something hear (pardon the pun) for them as well. As in everything, everyone has personal preferences and sound reproduction is one of my pet peeves. I simply cannot abide by the high rates of volume needed to drive the stocker speakers, subsequently resulting in high volumes of distortion.

    I recently trashed out the stock Ford F-150 "premium" sound system in my 2003 "Collectible" 100th. Anniversary Harley-Davidson edition as I thought the system lacked depth and clarity (Stockers were paper speakers with "whizzer cones" for tweeters). I replaced all speakers with truly high-end Infinity Kappas speakers along with an Infinity Bass Link Sub-woofer driving the bottom end...Ahh - nirvana finally. I know many don't even have this type of system in their homes (I won't detail you with this item). The Polk's should fit nicely into the Spyder configuration and sound great across all ryding situations (if I can ever find out the rear speaker sizes)!

    Alright, I'll stop
    I appreciate everyone tolerating my rants and tirades!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  16. #41
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garganos View Post
    That's odd I have yet to have anyone complain about the quality of the sound. Have you checked your audio settings? I have had people who own GoldWings say the sound quality coming from the Spyder is far Superior.
    I think the quality of sound stinks! That has nothing to do with the Spyder sound system, though. Wind buffeting, helmet noise, and engine and exhaust noise conspire against the rider at highway speeds, to make sound fidelity a mere dream. Add earplugs and the sytem doesn't stand a chance, since they filter different frequncies selectively. IMO, sound systems are a useless frill on motorcycles.
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  17. #42
    Banged Up Member MouthPiece's Avatar
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    This is more of a question than a response, but will ear plugs or head phones prevent a person from being "aware of their surroundings"? I've never worn them so I don't know. I do see people walking, riding their bicycles, etc., with them on, and I wonder whether that is prudent or not. Just a thought.

    Chris PE # 0004

  18. #43
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    Chris,

    That is a great question.

    I have both the quad speakers on my aforementioned Honda Valkyrie Interstate along with the Helmet Stereo/Two Way Voice Activated Intercom System. I got the top of the line J&M system and use it sparingly as I feel from a safety aspect, it robs you of being able to hear local as well as distant sounds that may convey a warning to you. This is exactly why many municipalities ban auto drivers from wearing headphones while driving and for that matter, extremely loud car sound systems. Same issue as texting or speaking on the phone while driving and subsequent distraction follows.

    I ride bicycles as well and have occasionally ridden with my iPod and find I cannot hear the "road" sounds and any coming dangers. So as far as being prudent it is not and you have to assume risk for yourself and those around you should you use earplugs or headphone systems. I prefer the "open air" canopy of being able to hear my tunes as well as that big GMC truck on my rear!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  19. #44
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    Stock sounds pretty good to me but I do want to upgrade now.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    Stock sounds pretty good to me but I do want to upgrade now.
    The music sounded fine on your video, but it sure doesn't sound that good with a helmet on that covers your ears.
    I agree with Jim... the RT sound system is pretty much useless except at slow speeds, or without a helmet.
    Dave
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  21. #46
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    I am able to hear the stereo just fine at any legal speed on the freeway with my full face helmet. My wife on back has trouble sometimes understanding what is being said when listening to talk radio shows. It varies on which direction the wind is coming from and how high I have the windscreen set. As far as rear speaker size goes... I just had the bike apart to install the Corbin arm rests which includes removing the speakers. They appeared to be in the neighborhood of 3-4 inch in diameter (definitely not 5 1/4") from what I recall when I visually looked at them. I did not measure them though. They are coaxial.

    It would take about 1 hour to remove the rear speakers and replace them. Fairly simple job requiring the following tools: T-30, T-20, 7mm, 8mm and 10mm sockets. Be careful with the nuts located in the speaker / arm rest assemblies as they can be pushed out fairly easily. They are for the six T-30 bolts inside the rear trunk facing outboard into the speaker / arm rest assemblies. Speakers have the standard spade type connections...no wiring should have to be altered to install aftermarket speakers. There is plenty of room behind the speakers to accomodate larger voice coil magnets. The factory voice coils are very small.

    Removal order would be:
    1) Passenger back rest (2 screws and 3 bolts)
    2) Loosen back trim piece by removing the 4 bolts visible when the rear trunk is opened.
    3) Remove the L/H and R/H arm rest / speaker assemblies (6 bolts inside the trunk facing outboard with three on each side). Antenna connections require the 7mm, 8mm and 10mm sockets.

    From there it is just a matter of disassembling the arm rest / speaker assemblies which is fairly straight forward.


    Chris

  22. #47
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    Thanks Chris,

    I ordered the fronts last evening, the Polk db521's as they are relatively inexpensive on Amazon.com and I know the front speakers are a 5.25" size. I looked at the db5251 components but felt they would be overkill, especially with the Spyder HU only putting out 20 Watts. The db521's are a coaxial with a tweeter that swivels making it directional...it is also certified for marine use!

    Still waiting to hear from BRP through my dealer regarding the rear sizings. At least for now I can get some quality sound coming out and will turn the rears down so as not to continue to hear their distortions. Once I get the rear sizing information I'll pass along as I am assuming for now they are a 4.0" speaker. Should be this hard to obtain information from the manufacturer!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  23. #48
    RT-S PE#0027 widowmaker2011's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderRider View Post
    Thanks Chris,

    I ordered the fronts last evening, the Polk db521's as they are relatively inexpensive on Amazon.com and I know the front speakers are a 5.25" size. I looked at the db5251 components but felt they would be overkill, especially with the Spyder HU only putting out 20 Watts. The db521's are a coaxial with a tweeter that swivels making it directional...it is also certified for marine use!

    Still waiting to hear from BRP through my dealer regarding the rear sizings. At least for now I can get some quality sound coming out and will turn the rears down so as not to continue to hear their distortions. Once I get the rear sizing information I'll pass along as I am assuming for now they are a 4.0" speaker. Should be this hard to obtain information from the manufacturer!
    Couple things- Has anyone looked at the backside of the front cavities where the speakers reside? I have not (I've only had the grills off when running accessory wires) and I am wondering on how it is acoustically. (Is it a wide open area with no enclosure (bad) or does it have a chamber. If its just a wide open area the upgrade in speakers will not do anywhere near the change you are looking for unless you install baffles- Second- Most dealers I have been to have the rear speaker kit in stock (for adding to the RT Audio and convenience) Call around and have a dealer pop open the box and measure the speaker. I think it is 4" as you said.
    Last edited by widowmaker2011; 08-16-2010 at 09:38 AM.
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  24. #49
    Very Active Member Sopher's Avatar
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    So as not to hijake this thread, I will make a new one:
    How to replace the RTS speakers. Sizes and video included.
    RT-S # 352; Timeless Black... faster than any other color. Mods: EasternBeaver PC8 Fuse Box, 12v digital dashboard display, RearTrunk internal Lights.
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    Other secret mods.

  25. #50
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Sopher View Post
    So as not to hijake this thread, I will make a new one:
    How to replace the RTS speakers. Sizes and video included.

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