Stupid Question: Ideal RPM to shift gear?

[Al Gully]

I have a 2018 F3T SE6 what is the best RPM to shift up?

What you can do is set it in the Eco mode and you will see where the BRP computer wants you to shift at.
I like 3500-4500 RPM.

[Bob Denman]

The 1330 isn't the least bit fussy:

Floating Your Goat.jpg

[Kasper86]

When is the best mph or rpm to paddle shift between gears for any year or model with a SE6 1330. Need a good direct answer no guessing please.

1st to 2nd-- between mph to mph or rpm
2nd to 3rd-- between mph to mph or rpm
3rd to 4th--- between mph to mph or rpm
4th to 5th-- between mph to mph or rpm
5th to 6th-- between mph to mph or rpm

Shoot me a email apffap@yahoo.com

[RayBJ]

Looks like you asked the same question in 2019.

There's no "best" shift/speed point IMHO.
My experience has been that the shift points vary depending on the acceleration pace. If I'm cranking thru the gears with a hot foot, the shift points are at higher rpms to "stay on the pipe" (best pull). If I'm riding casual, the shifting is done at lower rpm (3500-4000).

But in any case, you don't want to 'lug' the engine by running too low an rpm under load.

[ARtraveler]

When is the best mph or rpm to paddle shift between gears for any year or model with a SE6 1330. Need a good direct answer no guessing please.

1st to 2nd-- between mph to mph or rpm
2nd to 3rd-- between mph to mph or rpm
3rd to 4th--- between mph to mph or rpm
4th to 5th-- between mph to mph or rpm
5th to 6th-- between mph to mph or rpm

Shoot me a email apffap@yahoo.com

You are making this a little harder than it has to be. I note you have a 2018 F3. If you want a gear by gear reference of when to shift...just put your F3 into "eco" mode. Hold the mode button in a smidge longer and the green "eco" icon will pop up on your dashboard. You will get a "shift" light each time it wants you to upshift. Downshifts are automatic.

OR...as your are shifting up...3500 seems to be about right for all gears. You know it is the sweet spot when it shifts virtually noisless. You will quickly learn to do this by ear. I don't like ECO because it is a large distraction to me looking for the shift light all the time.

The 1330 is very forgiving, A hundred rpm's or two either way...does not matter much.

Hope this information helps.

[EdMat]

In slow traffic I will shift around 3,000. In a hurry about 5,500.

[missouriboy]

...But in any case, you don't want to 'lug' the engine by running too low an rpm under load.

You cannot damage anything by "lugging" the engine, except by opinion, since the automatic downshift timing is engineered to prevent that. In fact, that's the sole purpose of that downshift, I think. Same with the upshift: the paddle only "requests" the shift... Nanny then performs it only when RPM is sufficiently high.

But, hey, I've been known to be wrong before!

[Peter Aawen]

You cannot damage anything by "lugging" the engine, except by opinion, since the automatic downshift timing is engineered to prevent that. In fact, that's the sole purpose of that downshift, I think. Same with the upshift: the paddle only "requests" the shift... Nanny then performs it only when RPM is sufficiently high.

But, hey, I've been known to be wrong before!

I doubt very much that you are wrong on either of those facts missouriboy!

More than one BRP Trained Spyder Tech/Engineer/Guru here in Oz has said exactly that & others very much the same thing when directly questioned about those 'auto' downshifts - they are all pretty unanimous that the auto-downshift's major purpose is to protect the engine from lugging & clutch/transmission from running too high a torque load & the consequent damage that may occur whenever road speed drops below that viable for the given revs/gear/road speed; with the 'auto-downshift' feature promoted by the marketing & sales team simply tagged on as an after-thought! And as you suggested, they all also said the same goes for shifting up too early - no matter how often you flap the flappy paddle, if you don't have suitable revs/road speed for the next higher gear to pull that gear safely, then the computers just don't let the up-shift happen until you do!


So Kasper, you can up-shift from whenever/whatever revs the computers will let you right out to the red line without issue, cos the computers won't let you up-shift too low & the rev limiter feature of the engine's computer control unit will cut you off if you rev it out too far past that red line!

As for that ECO thing, it certainly works to help you learn the lowest viable up-shift revs for a given revs/gear/road speed combination & might even give you the misapprehension that you're actually saving more than just a dribble of fuel, but do be aware that when you select ECO Mode, it not only turns on that Green Arrow, but it also downgrades the 'fly-by-wire' throttle input by a fairly significant amount! So if you do choose to use ECO Mode, you'll really be further restricting the engine's potential power output and the Spyder's performance capability from the already 'de-tuned for Spyders' levels that we get from the factory (just to make sure you don't have too much fun! ) because in ECO Mode, you'll NEVER achieve Wide Open Throttle or Full Revs in any gear, not even for the moment that the 'normal' factory tune allows!


Just Sayin'

[vito1943]

What do you mean by "best" in terms of when to shift? Some might say "best" is when it is more fuel efficient. Some might say it is when power is maximized. Anywhere above where the engine lugs, and up to redline is ok to shift. Personally I have no idea at what rpm I normally shift, although I suspect its around 4,000 on on 2021 RT. I do it by sound, just as I have done for decades with 2 wheel motorcycles. I've compared my normal riding to a stretch where I put the Spyder in Eco mode and shift accordingly, and have not found a significant difference in terms of mpg. So now I never use Eco mode, and I shift by sound, and so far have had no problem.

[exbrc1]

3,150 no clunk from trans !