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  1. #51
    Registered Users SpyderWolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1VENOM View Post
    Done! Used a crescent wrench to widen the female ends of the pipe, this allowed the gasket to slide in with no mallet needed, and anger management was not required. I coated the inside of the gaskets with Permatex and they slide on effortlessly. I'll give it a run tomorrow to check for leaks and reduced heat. My left gasket was almost completely burned out. Right one and the lower one were in great shape. Heat wrap is the next project. After I install my new LED rear side markers. Waiting for fedex to show.Now!!
    You should definitely be able to tell a difference.
    Very Happy Spyder Ryder!


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  2. #52
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Default 2 Tips!

    Just did mine yesterday and have 2 tips-
    I used a couple different stacks of wood for support plus a jack .
    1- Follow the Oxygen sensor about 12-14 inches and under the gas tank cut the zip tie that attaches it to another wire AND you add about 6 inches of PLAY in the sensor! Replace zip tie when done!
    2- I did it solo and would seat one pipe a 1/2 inch but could never get the other pipe on! Tried a few times from different sides? THEN put a stack of wood under the exhaust and instead of just loosening the bolt on the exhaust I took the Nut off and slid the bolt out so the exhaust pipe itself sat about an inch lower on a stack of wood. Now both ends had the flexibility to seat - I braced them from underneath and lifted the pipe back on the bolt till the end of the process.
    3- Hope this helps if you have to do it solo!

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  3. #53
    Very Active Member SethO's Avatar
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    great pics dan, anyone got a link to get the gaskets quick and cheap?
    I am existing right now, would give anything to live again. Fix my sci and you have everything I own.

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  4. #54
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    I did mine a couple of days ago. I could not have done it without the picts and instructions provided by Dan. Thanks much.
    I got my gaskets at a local Honda store. I think $7.00 per. Seth, I know you can get them cheaper on line. Just google the part no.
    Love my

    Statistics show that most motorcycle accidents are caused by a defective nut holding the handlbars.

  5. #55
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    Thank you, WackyDan! Did the wife's tonight and now the only exhaust noise is coming out of the muffler.

  6. #56
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Default Not a misprint

    Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

  7. #57
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.
    Thanks for pointing that out.... I went a bit over, but not too over... They seem to be holding fine.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
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  8. #58
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    I've been reading, re-reading and re-re-RE-reading this thread as I keep imagining that my Spyder is getting louder...
    Thanks for a great write-up; I'm going to print this whole thing out when it comes time to crawl around under the bike a little bit...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #59
    Active Member Crisis's Avatar
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    Default Y Gasket Question

    What are the symptoms that you need to replace these gaskets. I have 7,500 miles on my RS SE5.
    Thanks



    Quote Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
    Tools: Metric sockets, Socket extensions, Pry bar (optional), ATV lift or ramps, and either wood blocks or floor jack to support Y manifold.

    Oh... And a big rubber mallet and anger management. * Very important.

    A second pair of hands is required for only five minutes towards the end of the install. My wife was able to do this no problem.

    Parts: Either the BRP Y gaskets or the Honda GL 1800 Gaskets. The Honda Gaskets will last longer according to others here that have used them. They are also cheaper. Part number for the Honda GL1800 gasket is 18392-MAM-000

    First... This is what we are talking about below in the picture. You will need to remove the lower kick panels on both sides for the best access. I found that to be easiest, though getting the pipes back together was a challenge. Left side and then right side in pics below.



    This is what we need to get in there. A new Gasket on the left and right side.



    You will need to have the Spyder elevated several inches to do this comfortably.

    Before you start attacking the pipes, have a floor jack or stack of wood handy to support the entire Y pipe manifold from underneath.

    To start disassembly, you will need to remove the spring on each side. I used a pair of vice grips but others have used some sort of hooked tool.

    You then will want to loosen the 10mm bolt on each clamp assembly in the pictures above.

    You will need to unhook the rubber exhaust hanger that is supporting the whole assembly. it is easier to slide it off the top hook. Please make sure you have blocking in place to support the pipes, as you do not want to put pressure on the O2 sensor wire harness which feeds back up above the swing arm.

    Hanger and O2 sensor are noted in the following pics:



    Picture with the jack in place to support the whole assembly as I worked it loose. Floor jack was nice as I screwed the white plate on the jack up or down as I needed play... You could do the same with multiple wood boards in a stack.



    Once you have the jack in place, you can loosen the muffler bolt found here:


    Now you can fully loosen the pipe clamps if you haven't already and work the Y manifold free from the headers.

    Once they are free, you will need to pull the old gaskets out. I found pulling them out to be a challenge. The left side was in great shape and was the hardest to pull out. The right side wasn't terrible, but it wasn't in as good shape as the left side and pulled out rather easily. In fact, I was surprised by the right side. I thought it would have been in worse shape than it was. You will probably find that the old gaskets are baked onto and into the female ends of the Y-Pipe.

    No you can take the new gaskets and place them on the male ends of the header pipes which is the header side of the connection. It should look like the picture below.



    That is about it. A second pair of hands is handy. Let me say that getting the pipes up over the new gasket and fully seated required some anger, some light prying, and the application of anger via a large rubber mallet. Once I had the lower pipe on one side started by hand, I used the mallet to smack that side from the bottom of the manifold. Got one side up half way, had my wife hold it to make sure it didn't slip, and then worked on the other side. Used the mallet to fully seat them, partially tightened the clamps, and reinstalled the springs.

    The service manual calls for 13 Nm or 115 pounds of torque. Pretty sure that 115 is a misprint as that is way different than 13Nm. I set the torque wrench at 15 pounds and finished tightening. The weird thing is that as the gaskets compress a bit and it screws with the torque wrench actually working normally. Just had to be careful.

    EDIT AND NOTE ABOUT TORQUE ON THE CLAMPS ( FROM BILLYBOVINE) : Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

    After all that, make sure the rubber hanger is put back in place, and the muffler bolt is tightened again!

    Start up the bike, let it run for 5 minutes or so. You will smell the new gaskets "cooking" in. After that I put the wrench back on the clamps for another 1/4 turn or so.

    I think that sums it up. This wasn't hard at all. I already had the bike torn down for oil change and plug changes so this was a good time to do these and upgrade to the honda parts.

    My biggest pain was just getting the pipes back together as they don't line up nicely, though yours might versus mine. I could do this in under an hour now that I've done it once.

    I hope this helps those that don't understand what the Gaskets are or where they go and some of the steps in photos needed to get them done. If I missed something, let me know.

  10. #60
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crisis View Post
    What are the symptoms that you need to replace these gaskets. I have 7,500 miles on my RS SE5.
    Thanks
    Increased heat on thighs, especially on right side; Louder exhaust; possible exhaust popping or "backfiring"; visible leakage upon removal of body panels.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
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  11. #61
    Very Active Member GaryTheBadger's Avatar
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    No need for a mallet. Line-up both sides, then use a floorjack to push each pipe up. Worked perfectly today, no swearing.
    Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
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  12. #62
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    Take your time goin back togetherFinally got out and replaced my Y gaskets this past weekend.
    This thread with associated pictures was invaluable!!!! Thanks to all who contributed!!!
    Some observations;

    I cut the zip tie on the O2 sensor wire to give me more slack....worked good.
    Take your time goin back together. If its all lined up right it goes pretty easy.

  13. #63
    Very Active Member cyclelover63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crisis View Post
    What are the symptoms that you need to replace these gaskets. I have 7,500 miles on my RS SE5.
    Thanks
    I was installing BRP passenger peg extensions and Baja Ron's spark plug wires tonight and I started my 2009 GS up with the side panels off and heard a loud rumble...If you put your hand down by the exhaust pipe where the gasket is before the exhaust gets hot,you can feel it leaking....I didn't notice any extra heat or noise..It probably happens so gradual,you don't realize it...now I know why i saved this thread to my favorites...What a big help and great instructions!..

  14. #64
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    My RT is in for its 9000 miles tune up...(+ rear tire, swaybar) and an exhaust leak: looks like the Honda gasket is only for the RS not the RT???

  15. #65
    Registered Users Fire911's Avatar
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    Thumbs up excellent tutorial

    Add me to the list of thankful backyard mechanics, specially since i did it in the back yard because I have no garage. This was an excellent instruction.

    The hardest part was removing all the plastics. I bought some ramps and a rubber mallet as suggested, i had everything else I would need. Took a ride to the Honda dealer and picked up a couple of Y gaskets. I went through the owners manual to remove plastics, first time for me. No problems with clamp bolts although next time they may be more rusted. The right side gasket was completely missing, hopefully it disintegrated and didn't get stuck some where downstream. The left side looked good and it came out really easy. Put in new gaskets and the pipes went back together great with a little persuasion from my new rubber mallet. no 2nd person assistance needed. Torqued as stated and then ran the bike for a while then re-torqued. replaced springs and hangers and plastic. Sounds a whole lot better now.


    This forum is awesome
    Stay Safe!

    PaulB

    2011 Orange/Black Spyder RS-S

  16. #66

    GOS Founding Member (Girls On Spyders)


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    Default thanks, WackyDan

    Len and SpyderPops diagnosed a faulty Y-gasket on my 2011 RSS while we were in Branson with the MOGang. I just found this thread and it sounds like something I would attempt to do myself, but I know I don't have the right tools. So I'm sending a link to my dad so he can read up before we tackle this replacement. I still love being my dad's helper on greasy projects like this. Wish us luck!

    Thanks to WackyDan for taking the time to write it up so carefully. And for the other good suggestions for avoiding the need for anger management along the way.

  17. #67
    Registered Users twain's Avatar
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    Replaced my gaskets yesterday with Honda parts. Right side half way gone and left pretty brittle. Video was excellent tutorial. Thanks

  18. #68
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback guys. I enjoyed doing some of the videos and how to posts a lot. I've been mostly MIA due to work and Leah.

    Leah is the perfect excuse for anything actually.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
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    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
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  19. #69
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    I just did mine at 13k. The right side was completely burned out and the left was mostly intact, but leaking.

    This thread has some excellent tips, which I've read after the fact.

    However, I wanted to add my .02 that the Honda gaskets are THE only way to go. The quality of the part is far beyond the stock Can Am part. No Spyder owner should even consider going OEM with the Honda gasket being so much superior and a 1/3 of the cost.

  20. #70
    Very Active Member AbNormy's Avatar
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    Thanks. Is this the same as a 12RT? Invaluable info!

    From Deep in the Hart of Texas!
    2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
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  21. #71
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbNormy View Post
    Thanks. Is this the same as a 12RT? Invaluable info!

    From Deep in the Hart of Texas!
    Yup... For the most part anyway, you guys with the RTs have different panels to deal with, but the same design of the pipes, etc are there.

    Not sure about the 2013's, but they are probably close enough due to have the same engine. The new BRP gaskets are said to be improved so the first factory set should last longer than the old ones on the newer Spyders... I have 20k on my honda gaskets and no issues so far.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
    *Mower deck in development*
    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
    26,000 miles.

    Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.

    HAPPY SPYDER OWNER

  22. #72
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
    Yup... For the most part anyway, you guys with the RTs have different panels to deal with, but the same design of the pipes, etc are there.

    Not sure about the 2013's, but they are probably close enough due to have the same engine. The new BRP gaskets are said to be improved so the first factory set should last longer than the old ones on the newer Spyders... I have 20k on my honda gaskets and no issues so far.
    The 2010-2012 RT pipes/gaskets are not the same design as the 2008-2012 GS/RS...nor do I believe they are the same size.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  23. #73
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    The 2010-2012 RT pipes/gaskets are not the same design as the 2008-2012 GS/RS...nor do I believe they are the same size.
    Good to know. Anyone ever find a honda or other alternative for those models then?

    2008 GS JOINT DE TUYAU *SLIP JOINT
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    2010-2013 RT and ST JOINT TUYAU *SLIP JOINT
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    Last edited by WackyDan; 08-09-2013 at 10:44 AM.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
    *Mower deck in development*
    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
    26,000 miles.

    Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.

    HAPPY SPYDER OWNER

  24. #74
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    Default Y Gasket

    Can someone give me the Honda part numbers for these gaskets please? Thank you

  25. #75
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    Default Exhaust Y Gasket replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderWolf View Post
    You should definitely be able to tell a difference.
    Part Numbers please. Thnx

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