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Originally Posted by WackyDan
Burg... forgot about the torque wrench question... I would suggest you tighten the bolts until "stiff", and then maybe another turn more. Run her, and then give them another 1/2 turn or more depending on the resistance you feel. The torque wrench only let me know I was in the neighborhood in regard to specifications. Due to the new gaskets having some "give" to them, it was hard to know if I was accurate in regard to torque anyway.
Whenever I am in this fix, with something that "gives" when it is tightened, I use a 3/8" drive ratchet, and choke up on it, putting the extension or socket between my middle and ring fingers. That way I can only get so much torque on it, like a screwdriver. Maybe it takes some experience to get the feel for it, but it has always worked for me.
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I am going to replace mine in the next few days.Ordered 2 y gaskets ($15.00 each )from the honda dealer
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Originally Posted by nudle
I am going to replace mine in the next few days.Ordered 2 y gaskets ($15.00 each )from the honda dealer
$15 each? Holy crap man. I think mine were $5 bucks or so.
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Originally Posted by nudle
I am going to replace mine in the next few days.Ordered 2 y gaskets ($15.00 each )from the honda dealer
Mine were $6.49 each from the Honda dealer about 1.5 hours away. At $15 you may want to double check they are getting you the right part number. Otherwise, one of us can get them and ship them to you next time to save you some money.
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I just did this last night. Thanks for the write up. Took me 1 hour with removing the panels. My honda dealer only had them in a sealed 3 pack but they cost me $13. 10 times easier than I thought this would be.
Chuck
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Dan, a great write up. A perfect example of what is so great about this forum, like others have mentioned, now when I do this, I know just what to expect.
Thanks,
Tom
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderWolf
The exhaust wrap idea sounds intriguing. I was actually thinking of wrapping my exhaust, but was unsure about covering up the Y section. There is a part of me that thinks with the new Honda Gasket in, if I totally wrapped the exhaust everything would last a whole lot longer, and the Spyder would be cooler in the summer as well. The only down side I can see is if I have to replace the Y gaskets again all of the wrap will have to come off. Decisions, decisions.
I don't think I would want to weld the Y to the headers. I am assuming they did not do that for a very good reason, but I could be mistaken as well. I may also check with the local muffler guys about cutting the slots in my Hindle connection.
FWIW-- I've been told that wrapping the pipes on a fuel-injected bike is a no-no.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Originally Posted by Firefly
FWIW-- I've been told that wrapping the pipes on a fuel-injected bike is a no-no.
Now that is interesting. I wonder what the reasons for that might be? Everything I have read so far says it helps by getting the exhaust gasses to move to the muffler faster.
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y gaskets
replaced my y gaskets yesterday. may I make a suggestion that you put the gasket on the small end of the exhaust pipe as it will let the y pipe slide on easier.
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First let me say... WackyDan... "Great presentation".
Last time I bought the honda gaskets they were $8 each and I bought 20 of them. However, I have know for years that anything in Lake City FL is higher than most other places except the "gold coast". Ken krb1945
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Guess what I did today? I replaced them with the Honda gaskets. Only 9,000 miles! It was uneventful, thanks to WackyDan.
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I got around to changing my "Y" gasket this morning after a 12 hr shift last night. I say gasket singular, because there was not one in the right side. No remnant of one ever being there. I didn't even have to loosen the clamp. When I took off the spring the pipe just slipped off. I wonder how long this had been that way. I'm going to have to pay more attention to the spyder when it comes back from the dealer. I had the 2nd update less than 1300 miles ago.
The whole procedure start to finish took a little over 2 1/2 hours. Working by myself. I ran into a few obstacles. Lost 1/2 trying to get the right side back on, but the KM highway bracket on that side kept getting in the way. I'm sure I missed some obvious trick. Once I removed it the procedure went like this thread indicates. If you have an extra set of hands? Use them! If not? It is not impossible, but will probably take longer.
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Add me to the Y gasket replacement team. I went with the Honda gaskets.
David
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So how many gaskets are needed to do this install? 1?, 2?, or 3?.
Y
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Originally Posted by 1VENOM
So how many gaskets are needed to do this install? 1?, 2?, or 3?.
Y
You need 2 of them, one for each side.
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There is a 3rd gasket, after the two pipes merge into one, gasket part number is 707600350 or 707600547....Are people finding that gasket also needs replacement, and is there a better brand to use than OEM?
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Originally Posted by GaryTheBadger
There is a 3rd gasket, after the two pipes merge into one, gasket part number is 707600350 or 707600547....Are people finding that gasket also needs replacement, and is there a better brand to use than OEM?
At 12k miles both my fronts were gone and 1/2 the back. From all I have read, Honda is the gasket to use for replacement.
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Originally Posted by GaryTheBadger
There is a 3rd gasket, after the two pipes merge into one, gasket part number is 707600350 or 707600547....Are people finding that gasket also needs replacement, and is there a better brand to use than OEM?
Gary... no one has found a replacement for the big one yet. Still have to go with BRP's.
It's a 2.625" ID, 2.875" OD if anyone wants to continue to hunt.
.
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Originally Posted by pierrelogic
Just a follow-up FYI on my exp.
When I got to the BRP gaskets they both looked a little overly "smooth" but 100% intact. Of course since I was already there I pulled them both out and replaced with the Honda's. Spyder had 8,000 hard earned, hard ridden miles on it at swapout but after reading the threads surely I expected them to be at least a little fried.
Makes me wonder if it was worth all the effort.
Sure it was. Now you have better gaskets at minimal cost, and you know you are good for a long time.. One less thing to worry about.
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y gaskets
I'm in the process of replacing my y-gaskets, I've got all the parts and I have dropped the muffler and the Y-pipe. I removed the electrical connection for the o2 sensor so not to worry about putting weight on the wire.
Now, when I picked up my new gaskets and straps, I was talking to a mechanic who said that he used, Permatex (sensor safe) Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone, on the new gaskets to prevent premature burn out. He also stated that in the three years on doing this he has had no complaints from customers or had to replace any. He works not only on Spyders but Harley's, Honda's, Victory, and custom bikes.
I was wondering if anyone here has used this product on their seals?
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Originally Posted by 1VENOM
I'm in the process of replacing my y-gaskets, I've got all the parts and I have dropped the muffler and the Y-pipe. I removed the electrical connection for the o2 sensor so not to worry about putting weight on the wire.
Now, when I picked up my new gaskets and straps, I was talking to a mechanic who said that he used, Permatex (sensor safe) Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone, on the new gaskets to prevent premature burn out. He also stated that in the three years on doing this he has had no complaints from customers or had to replace any. He works not only on Spyders but Harley's, Honda's, Victory, and custom bikes.
I was wondering if anyone here has used this product on their seals?
I use to use it on the larger exhaust joint below. Works well.
Use the Honda gaskets up high and I don't think you'll have to worry about them again.
.
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Y gasket install
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