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  1. #1
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Default Exhaust Y Gasket replacement

    Tools: Metric sockets, Socket extensions, Pry bar (optional), ATV lift or ramps, and either wood blocks or floor jack to support Y manifold.

    Oh... And a big rubber mallet and anger management. * Very important.

    A second pair of hands is required for only five minutes towards the end of the install. My wife was able to do this no problem.

    Parts: Either the BRP Y gaskets or the Honda GL 1800 Gaskets. The Honda Gaskets will last longer according to others here that have used them. They are also cheaper. Part number for the Honda GL1800 gasket is 18392-MAM-000

    First... This is what we are talking about below in the picture. You will need to remove the lower kick panels on both sides for the best access. I found that to be easiest, though getting the pipes back together was a challenge. Left side and then right side in pics below.



    This is what we need to get in there. A new Gasket on the left and right side.



    You will need to have the Spyder elevated several inches to do this comfortably.

    Before you start attacking the pipes, have a floor jack or stack of wood handy to support the entire Y pipe manifold from underneath.

    To start disassembly, you will need to remove the spring on each side. I used a pair of vice grips but others have used some sort of hooked tool.

    You then will want to loosen the 10mm bolt on each clamp assembly in the pictures above.

    You will need to unhook the rubber exhaust hanger that is supporting the whole assembly. it is easier to slide it off the top hook. Please make sure you have blocking in place to support the pipes, as you do not want to put pressure on the O2 sensor wire harness which feeds back up above the swing arm.

    Hanger and O2 sensor are noted in the following pics:



    Picture with the jack in place to support the whole assembly as I worked it loose. Floor jack was nice as I screwed the white plate on the jack up or down as I needed play... You could do the same with multiple wood boards in a stack.



    Once you have the jack in place, you can loosen the muffler bolt found here:


    Now you can fully loosen the pipe clamps if you haven't already and work the Y manifold free from the headers.

    Once they are free, you will need to pull the old gaskets out. I found pulling them out to be a challenge. The left side was in great shape and was the hardest to pull out. The right side wasn't terrible, but it wasn't in as good shape as the left side and pulled out rather easily. In fact, I was surprised by the right side. I thought it would have been in worse shape than it was. You will probably find that the old gaskets are baked onto and into the female ends of the Y-Pipe.

    No you can take the new gaskets and place them on the male ends of the header pipes which is the header side of the connection. It should look like the picture below.



    That is about it. A second pair of hands is handy. Let me say that getting the pipes up over the new gasket and fully seated required some anger, some light prying, and the application of anger via a large rubber mallet. Once I had the lower pipe on one side started by hand, I used the mallet to smack that side from the bottom of the manifold. Got one side up half way, had my wife hold it to make sure it didn't slip, and then worked on the other side. Used the mallet to fully seat them, partially tightened the clamps, and reinstalled the springs.

    The service manual calls for 13 Nm or 115 pounds of torque. Pretty sure that 115 is a misprint as that is way different than 13Nm. I set the torque wrench at 15 pounds and finished tightening. The weird thing is that as the gaskets compress a bit and it screws with the torque wrench actually working normally. Just had to be careful.

    EDIT AND NOTE ABOUT TORQUE ON THE CLAMPS ( FROM BILLYBOVINE) : Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

    After all that, make sure the rubber hanger is put back in place, and the muffler bolt is tightened again!

    Start up the bike, let it run for 5 minutes or so. You will smell the new gaskets "cooking" in. After that I put the wrench back on the clamps for another 1/4 turn or so.

    I think that sums it up. This wasn't hard at all. I already had the bike torn down for oil change and plug changes so this was a good time to do these and upgrade to the honda parts.

    My biggest pain was just getting the pipes back together as they don't line up nicely, though yours might versus mine. I could do this in under an hour now that I've done it once.

    I hope this helps those that don't understand what the Gaskets are or where they go and some of the steps in photos needed to get them done. If I missed something, let me know.
    Last edited by WackyDan; 07-27-2011 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Grammer and missing content.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    Nice write-up. Mine didn't require a mallet...


    I highly recommend using a good spring puller--- or if you don't have one--- take a T-handle allen wrench that you don't care to ruin and bend the end of it into a hook... like a "U" shape. Works great for pulling springs.

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member sabunim5's Avatar
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    Nice post. Hope it gets moved to the "How To" section.
    Happy owner of Silver PE #1232
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Great Pictures and write -up. Thanks for your time and effort!!!

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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  5. #5
    Registered Users SpyderWolf's Avatar
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    Outstanding job Dan. Thanks for taking the time to do this for us. My new gaskets should be in on Wednesday. It was a very good thing for you to put the part number in the post as well.
    Very Happy Spyder Ryder!


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  6. #6
    Active Member Longlegs's Avatar
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    Cool, I have this on my to-do list.
    Longlegs rides again.

  7. #7
    Registered Users Rando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
    Let me say that getting the pipes up over the new gasket and fully seated required some anger, some light prying, and the application of anger via a large rubber mallet.
    I believe there is a tool that will open up the slotted pipe just enough to allow it to slip over the gasket easier. Does anyone know anything about such a tool?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rando View Post
    I believe there is a tool that will open up the slotted pipe just enough to allow it to slip over the gasket easier. Does anyone know anything about such a tool?
    I think it's called a pipe expander, Something you might use once or twice in a life time, unless you work in a muffler shop. If i have to open up a pipe i stick the handle from a breaker bar into the end of the pipe and rotate in an outward stirring motion.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boborgera View Post
    I think it's called a pipe expander, Something you might use once or twice in a life time, unless you work in a muffler shop. If i have to open up a pipe i stick the handle from a breaker bar into the end of the pipe and rotate in an outward stirring motion.
    Hard to do that with the manifold still on the bike.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
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  10. #10
    Alignment Specialist bone crusher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
    Hard to do that with the manifold still on the bike.

    Your step-by-step rocks...I will be using your pics when I do this in a week or two...(need the gaskets in first!)...

    thanks Dan...really appreciate this!
    Bone Crusher
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  11. #11
    Registered Users SpyderWolf's Avatar
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    I replaced mine this past weekend. No rubber mallet needed, but plenty of anger management and a better jack would have helped quite a bit. My right side only had a little less that half the gasket left, while I had to wrestle with the left side to get it out of the pipe. I also replaced the spark plugs while I was at it, as my Spyder had started running like crap and I figured it definitely couldn't hurt anything to throw new plugs at it. I have 10,000 miles on it now.
    Very Happy Spyder Ryder!


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  12. #12
    Registered Users Some Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderWolf View Post
    My right side only had a little less that half the gasket left
    I did mine 3 months ago and my right side was HORRIBLE!!! It was the size of a postage stamp and looked like a window screen!
    I'm sure the Honda gaskets will last much longer. Much beefier construction.

    Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member Big Arm's Avatar
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    Just ordered four today.....should be in by Fri., then I'll be replacing mine. Thanks for all the pics.

    ....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....

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    the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....

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  14. #14
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    Is there a better gasket to replace the one on the end of the Y pipe for the exhaust.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burg650 View Post
    Is there a better gasket to replace the one on the end of the Y pipe for the exhaust.
    Nope. I think some have tried to find one, but nothing has been found as of yet. I don't think anyone has had issues with that one though.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
    *Mower deck in development*
    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
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    Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
    Hard to do that with the manifold still on the bike.
    Hard but not impossible. In my younger days i did all my repairs in the street, you find a way around any problem, buying extra tools for one repair was not an option.

  17. #17
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Found a PN for the screw that holds the clamp on. Its for a Goldwing that uses the same PN for the "Y" gasket. 90129-MN5-000 Don't know if it will work but worth a try.

    They have them on order for me. Will put the corroded screws back in, then replace them when the new screws come in. Hopefully they will work.
    Joy
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  18. #18
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    I went to a muffler shop today and talk about my hindle/Y pipe leak and this is what I was told to do, they said to go to any auto parts shop and get the exhaust leak tape (comes in black and red) rap it around the male part as much to create a tight fit and this should seal/fill the gap when I clamp the pipe back on they also said that yes cutting the slots might also fix the problem with the pipe going out of round that is mostly caused by the bolt on the clamp but it can also cause a leak as well in between the cut as well. So I will get some of this pipe patch tape and maybe get a new clamp as where the bolt is that little piece is all bent out of shape, another option is to weld the Y to the hindle that sure would fix any leaks for good.

  19. #19
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Wacky Dan,

    Your description and pictures are my bible for this project. My right "Y" gasket was half gone. Taking a break from trying to get the left one out. Everything you said is so spot on. Right down to anger management.

    Thank you so much!
    Joy
    Very Happy Ryder...
    '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S

    If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
    ​If you don't give up, they can't win.
    What a long strange journey its been.





  20. #20
    Registered Users SpyderWolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burg650 View Post
    I went to a muffler shop today and talk about my hindle/Y pipe leak and this is what I was told to do, they said to go to any auto parts shop and get the exhaust leak tape (comes in black and red) rap it around the male part as much to create a tight fit and this should seal/fill the gap when I clamp the pipe back on they also said that yes cutting the slots might also fix the problem with the pipe going out of round that is mostly caused by the bolt on the clamp but it can also cause a leak as well in between the cut as well. So I will get some of this pipe patch tape and maybe get a new clamp as where the bolt is that little piece is all bent out of shape, another option is to weld the Y to the hindle that sure would fix any leaks for good.
    The exhaust wrap idea sounds intriguing. I was actually thinking of wrapping my exhaust, but was unsure about covering up the Y section. There is a part of me that thinks with the new Honda Gasket in, if I totally wrapped the exhaust everything would last a whole lot longer, and the Spyder would be cooler in the summer as well. The only down side I can see is if I have to replace the Y gaskets again all of the wrap will have to come off. Decisions, decisions.

    I don't think I would want to weld the Y to the headers. I am assuming they did not do that for a very good reason, but I could be mistaken as well. I may also check with the local muffler guys about cutting the slots in my Hindle connection.
    Very Happy Spyder Ryder!


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  21. #21
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    Wacky Dan,

    I have a question, changed the gaskets today but I can not get the pipe all the way up as it was with stock gasket for one the new gasket is a bit wider and it also seems a bit longer. I had help and we also had not one but two rubber mallet and we banged the hell out of it but still could not get it up as tight as the stock was, is this a problem also I do not have a torque wrench how important is it to torque it down. You write up and photos made me understand exactly what I needed to do, THANKS.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burg650 View Post
    Wacky Dan,

    I have a question, changed the gaskets today but I can not get the pipe all the way up as it was with stock gasket for one the new gasket is a bit wider and it also seems a bit longer. I had help and we also had not one but two rubber mallet and we banged the hell out of it but still could not get it up as tight as the stock was, is this a problem also I do not have a torque wrench how important is it to torque it down. You write up and photos made me understand exactly what I needed to do, THANKS.
    That is where the pry bar or large wrench to pry comes in. I had to use a pry bar gingerly to get the female and male ends of the pipes to line up. Once you have both female flanges started and moving, a rubber mallet should fully seat them working one side to the other. You'll know when the pipe won't move any further.

    Can you take a picture of what your install looks like now? send to: wackydan at gmail dot com
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
    *Mower deck in development*
    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
    26,000 miles.

    Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.

    HAPPY SPYDER OWNER

  23. #23
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    If the right one wears much more than the left, would it be labor saving to just replace the right one or is that an ill conceived thought?

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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  24. #24
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    If the right one wears much more than the left, would it be labor saving to just replace the right one or is that an ill conceived thought?
    Kinda pointless to not do them both. I think you still risk damaging the left side during dis-assembly and re-assembly anyway.

    Plus... The honda gasket is only like $3 to $5...and you'll already have that left side apart to get at the right side anyway.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
    *Mower deck in development*
    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
    26,000 miles.

    Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.

    HAPPY SPYDER OWNER

  25. #25
    Very Active Member WackyDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burg650 View Post
    Wacky Dan,

    I have a question, changed the gaskets today but I can not get the pipe all the way up as it was with stock gasket for one the new gasket is a bit wider and it also seems a bit longer. I had help and we also had not one but two rubber mallet and we banged the hell out of it but still could not get it up as tight as the stock was, is this a problem also I do not have a torque wrench how important is it to torque it down. You write up and photos made me understand exactly what I needed to do, THANKS.

    Burg... forgot about the torque wrench question... I would suggest you tighten the bolts until "stiff", and then maybe another turn more. Run her, and then give them another 1/2 turn or more depending on the resistance you feel. The torque wrench only let me know I was in the neighborhood in regard to specifications. Due to the new gaskets having some "give" to them, it was hard to know if I was accurate in regard to torque anyway.
    WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
    Charlotte (Matthews), NC
    Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
    *Mower deck in development*
    2008 model -new in crate, April 09
    26,000 miles.

    Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.

    HAPPY SPYDER OWNER

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