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My response is not exactly on point, but here it goes. I was having problems with my VSS after having a new corbin seat installed. The VSS was kicking in when I had never experienced it prior to the seat installation.
My dealer tech found that the sensor located under the seat had been installed upside down by the corbin people. He "righted" it and my VSS has not kicked in since. This includes taking some "power turns" as well as riding in the mountains of North Carolina.
Chris PE# 0004
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Senile Member
Now if someone can come out with a plug in like the O2 modifier to replace the seat sensor and modify the VSS so we can do a little donuts ... that would worth a few bucks in my mind.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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I'm trying to avoid the throttle kill as Lamonster demonstrated in the video below:
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Hold down the brake just enough to engage the switch but not calipers
Works most of the time
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At low speeds it's all about the steering angle sensor
As soon as you get the bars straight you're good for full throttle
Reverse trikes are very unstable at low speed and large steering angles.
I have a reverse recumbent trike with a 50 cc engine on it. No nanny lol it will go 70+ and the only time I ever rolled it was at low speed with a lot of steering angle. It's center of gravity is much lower than the spyder. The roll over is quick unpredictable and very nonlinear.
I can understand why BRP set the threshold low.
Try carrying more speed into those corners and accelerate as soon as you get the steering straightened
Last edited by altonk; 10-21-2010 at 06:05 PM.
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If you disable it you'll end up on your head
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Originally Posted by altonk
If you disable it you'll end up on your head
Agreed. I'm not questioning the intent of the stability control (braking individual wheels) to prevent rollovers. However, I am questioning the inability to turn off traction control.
For example, if you're stuck in the snow you'll inevitably get wheel slippage. That's the primary reason cars equipped with traction control have the ability to turn it off.
I'll try the light pressure braking trick and see if the ECU cuts engine power during a slow turn. Thanks for the article link too.
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It isn't just traction control at low speeds and high steering angles it's easy to roll the trike with power before wheelspin
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Just ran a quick test in a parking lot outside my neighborhood. Closing the brake circuit and/or parking brake circuit does not prevent VSS from cutting engine power.
The primary factor for VSS engagement appears to be steering angle.
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Originally Posted by altonk
If you disable it you'll end up on your head
You can whip endless donuts and not land on your head. Taking off you just tail whip and in the rain you can drift curves. ABS and TCS still work also.
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Originally Posted by lamarguy
Just ran a quick test in a parking lot outside my neighborhood. Closing the brake circuit and/or parking brake circuit does not prevent VSS from cutting engine power.
The primary factor for VSS engagement appears to be steering angle.
When i come out of a parking lot /driveway /side street, I try to Stop in
the direction of the way i want to turn ,at a slight angle. Then then when i gun it the VSS doesn't kick in.
If i try the same turn at a Right angle and gun it the VSS will kick in.
Now that's the way my Spyder reacts, Not all Spyders act the same.
Your right about the steering angle, Maybe that angle can be adjusted'?
so it won't be so sensitive.
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Originally Posted by boborgera
If i try the same turn at a Right angle and gun it the VSS will kick in.
Now that's the way my Spyder reacts, Not all Spyders act the same.
That's how all Spyders react. > 50% steering angle + throttle = engine sputter
I'd be much happier with > 80% steering angle + throttle = engine sputter
Originally Posted by boborgera
Your right about the steering angle, Maybe that angle can be adjusted'?
so it won't be so sensitive.
One could certainly reduce the steering angle feedback to the ECU. This would trick the ECU into thinking the wheel is turned less than it actually is and delay VSS engagement.
This may be the only other viable solution, besides overriding the rear wheel sensor signal with the front wheel sensor signal.
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Just found this old thread after searching around and wondering if anyone ever came up with a way to reduce or temporarily disable VSS. I'm with lamarguy, would love to have it switchable, or at least a seriously reduced setting.
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Originally Posted by Justin
You can whip endless donuts and not land on your head. Taking off you just tail whip and in the rain you can drift curves. ABS and TCS still work also.
Justin, how do you know this? You must've found a way to disable VSS, please do tell.
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Change your techniques
All MSF riding schools teach that the best way to brake, turn and accelerate is the following:
Try to never brake after initiating a turn, turn, maintain speed with slight throttle through the turn then accelerate when the bike is straight again. They call this maintaining your line. They also teach if you must brake in a turn to straighten the bike first. Clearly these are techniques for the novice rider, but they are well founded in the physics and geometry of motorcycles.
Perhaps it would help your Spyder riding if you practiced some of these in an empty parking lot.
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Originally Posted by Dan_Ashley
All MSF riding schools teach that the best way to brake, turn and accelerate is the following:
Try to never brake after initiating a turn, turn, maintain speed with slight throttle through the turn then accelerate when the bike is straight again. They call this maintaining your line. They also teach if you must brake in a turn to straighten the bike first. Clearly these are techniques for the novice rider, but they are well founded in the physics and geometry of motorcycles.
Perhaps it would help your Spyder riding if you practiced some of these in an empty parking lot.
Thanks Dan, but what I'm after is a bit less restriction so I can feel more of the vehicle dynamics while still remaining safe. Based on comments in the forum I can see I'm not alone. Also, BRP must be getting the same feedback or they wouldn't have made the following change for 2014...
"NEW Sport-tuned VSS calibration for faster cornering and maximum agility (RS-S ONLY)"
Glad they seem to be listening. One last data point, check out the latest generation electronic controls on the new and well-reviewed BMW R1200GS... five different riding modes where ABS, TCS, and yaw control settings are all changed to allow the rider to both adapt to different circumstances but also preferences based on how much protection they want.
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Originally Posted by RandyL
Thanks Dan, but what I'm after is a bit less restriction so I can feel more of the vehicle dynamics while still remaining safe. Based on comments in the forum I can see I'm not alone. Also, BRP must be getting the same feedback or they wouldn't have made the following change for 2014...
"NEW Sport-tuned VSS calibration for faster cornering and maximum agility (RS-S ONLY)"
Glad they seem to be listening. One last data point, check out the latest generation electronic controls on the new and well-reviewed BMW R1200GS... five different riding modes where ABS, TCS, and yaw control settings are all changed to allow the rider to both adapt to different circumstances but also preferences based on how much protection they want.
I agree with ya 100% this is my sole complaint with my bike. I like to ride it more aggressive most of the time. Accelerating out of the apex on a sweeping turn, little harder on the throttle and not mattering how you lean nanny gets mad and shuts ya down, which Im trying to get used to but been couple times thats it's kicked in and feels like im going over the bars or off the side. I'm hoping the calibration is something that can be retro programed to the older bikes, I don't wanna make a gamble on a 2014 $1000 VSS module.
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"Considering a stiffer sway bar" isn't a modification, it's considering a modification.
Then again, your sig says you have the Evo bar...
For the record, I've got an Evo bar, plus I sprung for a pair of Fox shocks (they work fine on early RS/GS models). My Nanny experience isn't nearly as harsh as yours, but everybody seems to have a different ride. (How far off do you hang in sharp, slow turns? You get far better results the further off you hang).
That all said... we ride trikes. Trikes at sharp, slow turns lift wheels. The Nanny kicks in when this happens. Disabling the Nanny won't stop your wheels from lifting in turns-- that part is physics-- which means it won't do anything to increase your speed in turns. What it *will* do is prevent your Spyder from returning its wheels to the ground, unless you yourself are faster than the Nanny in applying brake and modulating throttle.
Seeing as you're a human being like myself, I doubt that this is true.
Anyway, like your link describes, there's a way of disabling the VSS. Why don't you try that and ride around a big open lot for a while, and report your results?
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...After you're out of the hospital; of course!
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
...After you're out of the hospital; of course!
Pessimist! As the Captain of the Hindenurg once said, "Adventurers and experimenters are shining beacons of painfully won knowledge for all us". He said that "before" the explosion, in case you were wondering. It's unlikely he'd have had time to say it afterwards. Just sayin............................
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I'm not advocating that this be tried...
Since the combination of wheelspin and steering angle is what triggers Nanny to wake up...
And you have no way to kill off the steering angle sensor...
Take the aspeed sensor off of the rear wheel, and piggyback it's signal from one of the fronts!
Your bike will think that the wheelspeeds are all the same; no wheelspin!
BUT IF YOU GO ON YOUR HEAD; you were told NOT to try this!
Your a genious. All you would have to do it move the rear abs sensor to the front and place it beside one of the front ABS sensors so it can see the same pulse count. I'm on my way to the garage now! And even better idea is to have a switch that would allow you to switch from back to front sensor Ans just leave the back and add a second front one.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Last edited by rabtech; 09-25-2013 at 08:27 PM.
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