RT SM5 Clutch Problem...big time

[finless]

I sent you a PM with a present.... Take a look please.

Bob

[The Governor]

I had the same problem on my 2011RT audio package.A leak was found at the puck that pushes out the pressure plate. O rings and plunger were replace. I had 9884 miles on the machine when it happened. Glad I had the extended warranty to cover the problem

2010 RTS SM5, 25k miles. Same issue.

I went ahead an ordered the new clutch, and ALL orings involved. Found a barely worn clutch, but a twisted O-RING (#10)! Replaced all parts anyway, replaced all clutch fluid, rode and shifted perfect. Bled clutch again at 100 miles to purge any possible air bubbles that escaped my initial attempts.

[whowser]

We we have the same one now and will look into or ding those parts thank you. Will keep you informed on the results.

I hope to have the part in today, just one question when I take it apart, i originally did not put the hex key in and started to loosen the first nut and realized I needed the hex key. I have it taken apart, removed the diaphragm. Did I mess up and is shaft to be attached to something it appears to be just loose?

[CanAmMick]

I hope to have the part in today, just one question when I take it apart, i originally did not put the hex key in and started to loosen the first nut and realized I needed the hex key. I have it taken apart, removed the diaphragm. Did I mess up and is shaft to be attached to something it appears to be just loose?

It shouldn't of hurt it. Just make sure when you get the new parts in that you do not let it turn. If you do you risk damaging the new Diaphragm that your installing.

[CanAmMick]

2010 RTS SM5, 25k miles. Same issue.

I went ahead an ordered the new clutch, and ALL orings involved. Found a barely worn clutch, but a twisted O-RING (#10)! Replaced all parts anyway, replaced all clutch fluid, rode and shifted perfect. Bled clutch again at 100 miles to purge any possible air bubbles that escaped my initial attempts.

I had the same problem with the #10 o-ring. It twisted, and wore some flat spots on the o-ring.

[whowser]

Thank you for the assistance we are back up and riding once again felt good to be back on the road

If it's got blue smoke when it's running, more than likely your Diaphragm p/n 420260892 is shot. Parts can be found at:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...cf59e24/clutch

I had to replace mine earlier this week. If your going to be doing it yourself, be sure to replace all the o'rings at the same time, Those are 6, 10, 11, 13 and can be found at the following link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...iaphragm-cover

You will need a maintenance manual to figure it all out. Got mine from green manuals on line. If you need help just let me know.

[spydersteve22]

I sent you a PM with a present.... Take a look please.

Bob

Sorry if not in right spot but can someone help tell me what type of fluid do I need to put in to top off the clutch?

[finless]

Sorry if not in right spot but can someone help tell me what type of fluid do I need to put in to top off the clutch?

DOT 4.

Bob

[Naben]

I have a 2010 RTS SM5 had clutch problem also at 5000 miles. They replace the clutch had warped clutch plates. It shifted hard and had a hard time Putting in neural. Have 22,000 miles now no problems.

Glad I found this thread..I have a,2011 rts manual and I can't get it into gear either. I have a little over 8000 miles on mine. I bought this bike about 6 months ago from a motorsports dealer in ga. I'm glad I bought the 2 year ext. warrenty..Going to have it towed to the dealer to fix.

[2010spyderride]

Guess it’s my turn….I’ve been a member of this “most excellent group” for 1 year now. I am very grateful to Lamont, and to the many members and contributors for their wealth of insightful information and entertainment. Most of us totally love our Spyder’s and the information gleaned from this forum is priceless. The posts are extremely informative and helpful, some amusing, lots of personal commentary and some…well...we all know that category…. With that said… as I type, my RT Audio Convenience SM5, is sitting in my driveway awaiting my “very dependable dealer” to come and pick it up and haul it back to the shop. Let me describe the frustrating, chain of events that led to this condition. Yesterday, while sitting stopped in traffic, listening to some cool tunes, I noticed that my RT started creeping forward, with the clutch lever fully depressed. I hit the brake to stop the machine and the engine died. Somehow the clutch seemed partially engaged therefore braking killed the engine. I was able to get the machine home into my driveway but by that time I was stuck in 1st gear and couldn’t shift up or down with the engine running / clutch lever depressed of course. I didn't try forcing the shift lever as I was afraid of bending or breaking some part of the shift mechanism. I could move the shift lever with the engine stopped. Now what??? I first checked clutch fluid..OK… I checked pneumatic assist, engine running clutch lever pressure vs. engine not running…checked..OK…Then with clutch piston cover removed, I checked clutch piston movement...2mm...Ok… I could have done more but why? The machine only has 621 miles on her and is well within warranty territory. So… Here they come, to take her away. Does any part of this mechanical event sound familiar to anyone out there?
Until yesterday, I found great satisfaction in the fact that I had opted for SM5 vs. SE5...Nothing ever goes wrong with a manual transmission…Right?? ….. Yea Right!!!!
As I said… My turn…. Len

I have a 2010 RTS with 24000 miles on it and yesterday I experienced exactly the same issues. I left the machine cool down and when started it with the clutch depressed, it jumped forward and stalled! Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[Lin]

Has the clutch fluid been replaced? I had problems with my 2011 and a fluid change did the trick in my case. I hope it's a simple fix for you.

[sjanway]

We we have the same one now and will look into or ding those parts thank you. Will keep you informed on the results.

Today mine started to make a clunking sound about every 3 to 4 feet, I can also feel and see the foot shifter moving up and down as it drivers down the road. Rt has just a little over 5,000 on it

[MSGTDOC]

Hmmmm... Slipped clutch Doc!!!

Well it's in the shop now so we will see. I'll let you know what the problem is when I get it back. I'm sure the shop will not admit fault even tho it's slipped since I had the new clutch put it.

[MSGTDOC]

Well the shop took it for a ride and it's slipping in 5th gear. They told me that it would last for a while but to change my riding habits. I decided to opt for a Barnett clutch instead of the stock clutch. It's in the shop now so we will see if that helped. Been on bikes for close to 50 years. i have a couple of guys that I ride with observe at different time during a ride to see if I was slipping the clutch at stops and lights. They stated that I was not. Trust me if I was slipping the clutch they would have said something. I had a 2008 that I used to smoke the tire off and never had a clutch problem. I'm clueless as to why this clutch is slipping. We will see if the Barnett works.

[ARtraveler]

You folks might want to consider moving the current conversation to a new thread. The date of this one goes back to 2010 and some of the information might not be relevant.

[SpyderAnn01]

Well the shop took it for a ride and it's slipping in 5th gear. They told me that it would last for a while but to change my riding habits. I decided to opt for a Barnett clutch instead of the stock clutch. It's in the shop now so we will see if that helped. Been on bikes for close to 50 years. i have a couple of guys that I ride with observe at different time during a ride to see if I was slipping the clutch at stops and lights. They stated that I was not. Trust me if I was slipping the clutch they would have said something. I had a 2008 that I used to smoke the tire off and never had a clutch problem. I'm clueless as to why this clutch is slipping. We will see if the Barnett works.

Is the dealer referring to what rpm you are shifting at? If you don't keep the rpm up you'll burn out the clutch for sure.

[MSGTDOC]

Hmmmm... Slipped clutch Doc!!!

I opted for a Barnett clutch. I wasn't having the same problem. Mine was slipping going up hill in fifth gear. After putting in 2 clutches I opted for the carbon fiber Barnett. I just got mine back yesterday and have had it out 2 times. It's harder to pull the clutch handle in but seems beefer. We will see

[juscuz]

This thread concerning the clutch causing creeping, stalling, and not shifting into gear has been discussed from 2010 up until 2017. Even up to now here in 2020 the problem persist. My 2015 F3s sms 6 has been bitten showing the same condition. Fluid flushed, new shifter assy, hose, hydraulic cylinder along with gearbox sensor replaced. I did notice when ignition is on, bike not running, the bike will shift into gear after the "E" symbol shows, a slight push forward of about 6 inches the bike will pop into gear and the "E" will disappear. With the engine running, going from neutral to any gear it will lurch forward and die as if the clutch has not disengaged. Any concrete info on a fix/adjustment of linkage or other fix before taking to dealer?????

[Tatonka]

have a similiar problem but mine is from a leak somewhere.....clutch acts up but a small top off of fluid fixes it....after a time must repeat....so there is a leak somewhere....had it had the dealer and they said they could not find a leak.but....its there?
anyone have a clutch leak issue before?

On another note...finally installed the baja ron sway bar on "13 rt sm5...as folks have said before....felt the difference right out of the parking lot!

[florinppp]

This thread concerning the clutch causing creeping, stalling, and not shifting into gear has been discussed from 2010 up until 2017. Even up to now here in 2020 the problem persist. My 2015 F3s sms 6 has been bitten showing the same condition. Fluid flushed, new shifter assy, hose, hydraulic cylinder along with gearbox sensor replaced. I did notice when ignition is on, bike not running, the bike will shift into gear after the "E" symbol shows, a slight push forward of about 6 inches the bike will pop into gear and the "E" will disappear. With the engine running, going from neutral to any gear it will lurch forward and die as if the clutch has not disengaged. Any concrete info on a fix/adjustment of linkage or other fix before taking to dealer?????

Hello! I have a 2017 F3 Spyder....6000km...and same issues.

Dealer told to change clutch....aprox 800usd.

I put pictures with part numbers.

If i put a spacer in in clutch lever, works fine.

I change the fluid....same issues.

I want to repair, i dont now if this its the problem....clutch.

Sorry for my bad english.