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  1. #26
    Very Active Member Bootie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Not sure that I am comfortable trying the 40 mph/3rd gear fix with the oil light on and having not taken a wet oil pressure test, even though the switch changes contact when the engine starts. I also have an oil leak somewhere, so mine will probably go into the shop.
    Scotty, the oil light never came on when it was not supposed to except when I was checking the wiring and then it came on and went off like it was supposed to. That process may have reset something in the computer. Because after that, Dave's solution worked. I put some more miles on this evening about 10 of them at 65+ mph. Everything seems to work now.

    The fact that the switch resistance goes to inf. when the engine starts means that there is, at least, some measure of oil pressure. I figured that the oil pressure was sufficient without actually measuring it.

    I don't exactly see how the oil light stays off and the P0524 code comes on. Unless there is some sort of timer and if the oil pressure doesn't come up to snuff within a particular time period, the P0524 code is generated. Then the oil light goes out but the code stays. This might be why Dave only saw this problem when the engine (and oil)were cold. Maybe a lower viscosity oil might solve the problem or maybe BRP has to reprogram the timer (if there is such a thing).
    Anyway, I am happy now. I hope things don't go south when I am in the Desert on my way to CA next month NV Rt.#50, the "Loneliest Road in America" would be a bad place to have a breakdown.

    Bootie-The Grievous Angel
    2015 F3-S, ISCI Handbrake, F4 32" Windshield, Zumo 660 GPS, Sway Bar



  2. #27
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    You are doing better than I am. My oil light stays on whenever the switch is connected. The switch goes to infinity and the wiring checks out, so that puzzles me. The engine seems to have good oil pressure (no knocks or strange noises), but I am leery of running it. I do not have the right connectors to do a wet oil pressure test. Odd that the code does not clear, even with the switch disconnected and the oil light out. I also had a code P0000 for a while, but that cleared when I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. It is a phantom code that has no meaning in the book.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  3. #28
    Very Active Member Bootie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    You are doing better than I am. My oil light stays on whenever the switch is connected. The switch goes to infinity and the wiring checks out, so that puzzles me. The engine seems to have good oil pressure (no knocks or strange noises), but I am leery of running it. I do not have the right connectors to do a wet oil pressure test. Odd that the code does not clear, even with the switch disconnected and the oil light out. I also had a code P0000 for a while, but that cleared when I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. It is a phantom code that has no meaning in the book.
    Hmmm. I don't know what to say. I I'd say you are doing the right thing by not pushing your engine to the limit. Looks like an oil gauge is required. I guess I'd take it to the Dealer.

    Bootie-The Grievous Angel
    2015 F3-S, ISCI Handbrake, F4 32" Windshield, Zumo 660 GPS, Sway Bar



  4. #29
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    Talking Here ya go.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
    I have a fault code. Where do I find the explanation for them? I have an EDB fault, code P0524. Anybody have any ideas? I do have the CD shop manual.

    Thanks
    Dwight
    https://powersportsguide.com/can-am-fault-code-list/

  5. #30
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    This particular thread dates back to May 2010.


    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  6. #31
    Active Member SkipH's Avatar
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    Well, he maybe late to the table, But I thank him for this info as I've never seen it before.
    Thank you.
    Adj removable backrest, KOTT radiator screens
    Double horn (118db), Lamonster mirror fix
    tender plug in, luggage liner/bags, FOBO 2
    Drinks2go cup holder, replaced the seat strut
    Garmin DriveSmart 71 GPS, Garmin BC 30 backup camera.
    White pulley, Pedal Commander
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    2021 RTL Dark Chalk Metallic

    Skip H.

  7. #32
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tucsonspyder View Post
    Anyone know offhand how current and complete this list is for Spyders? It looks like it probably has the codes for all Can-Am vehicles, which I suspect include many not applicable to the Spyder. I'm thinking of copying the list and put it into a PDF and put it in the stickies section. The procedure for checking codes in the link does not apply to Spyders. It shows the procedure for a Maverick.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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