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  1. #1
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    Default throttle return spring problem

    The throttle on my RTS is not closing--somewhere in the movement is a hard spot that is not being overcome with the spring. I took the end off of the handlebar by the throttle to see if I could determine anything.

    The end cap is held on by an allen bolt. Remove the allen bolt and there is a wrap spring that slides into a slot on the threads where the allen goes. There is a bushing/spacer that the spring surrounds. When I took the spring and bushing out--I can see where the other end of the wrap spring goes into a hole in the plastic where the bottom of the spring rests. The hole is chipped/scratched out so the bottom/tip of the spring looks like it will not stay in place. Thus the wrap spring does not do its job of helping return the throttle to zero/base!!

    My question: has anybody had this issue? Any other ideas on my problem? If I am looking at this correctly--it appears to be a bad design to have a steel spring rest in a plastic hole! I have not disassembled the throttle area yet. I plan on trying to do that tomorrow


    I would appreciate any advise or solution!

    Thanks

    Tom Volk

    2010 RTS

  2. #2
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    I have not had the problem you describe, but I have had a problem with slow response of the throttle body positioner. It makes it seem like I am a newbie, just learning to shift a manual transmission. The revs hang every time I turn off the throttle and I pull in the clutch. It is on the dealer's list for my warranty work.

    I know you are an experienced rider, but I highly recommend that everyone learns to close the throttle by hand, forcibly, every time, instead of just letting go and letting the spring do the work. This is especially important with the weaker fly-by-wire throttle return. If you are already doing this, and the throttle sticks, I think you have more serious problems than mere adjustment or lubrication will resolve. Time for the dealer to take a look.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomvolk View Post
    The throttle on my RTS is not closing--somewhere in the movement is a hard spot that is not being overcome with the spring. I took the end off of the handlebar by the throttle to see if I could determine anything.

    The end cap is held on by an allen bolt. Remove the allen bolt and there is a wrap spring that slides into a slot on the threads where the allen goes. There is a bushing/spacer that the spring surrounds. When I took the spring and bushing out--I can see where the other end of the wrap spring goes into a hole in the plastic where the bottom of the spring rests. The hole is chipped/scratched out so the bottom/tip of the spring looks like it will not stay in place. Thus the wrap spring does not do its job of helping return the throttle to zero/base!!

    My question: has anybody had this issue? Any other ideas on my problem? If I am looking at this correctly--it appears to be a bad design to have a steel spring rest in a plastic hole! I have not disassembled the throttle area yet. I plan on trying to do that tomorrow


    I would appreciate any advise or solution!

    Thanks

    Tom Volk

    2010 RTS
    Tom,

    Have your dealer check this out. We had 1 early release do this and we found a small plastic bushing (spacer) was missing in the throttle housing. This 1 we had was the only 1 I know of. This was on 1 of the factory bikes so it was the very first production run ( even before the premieres).

  4. #4
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    Default Wrap spring

    Ok

    Thanks for the input.

    I disassembled as much of the throttle assembly as possible but could not get it apart as far as I hoped.

    The problem appears to be that the end of the wrapped spring that fits into the hole in the plastic has broken part of the tip off. This results in the wrap spring not functioning since the tip will not stay in the hole. This also explains the scratches and gouging in the plastic near the hole as the tip drags across the plastic. There is still a 'tip' but it is not long enough to stay in the hole and hold position. I checked and the hole is plenty deep so I think a longer tip allow the wrap spring to function to 'return' the throttle to 'rest'. I wish I had a 'good' part to compare so I could confirm my theory! It takes 30 seconds to remove the bar end and spring for inspection.

    I will call my dealer tomorrow and see if they will order a replacement wrap spring and send it to me. I want to get about 600 miles on before I take the RTS in for the initial oil change/inspection. At that point I'll have them check out the throttle. In the meantime--I removed the spring so it does not hang up and/or do further damage to the plastic. There is a slight return tension from the throttle now so the unit is rideable.

    I had old HD bikes where there was no return to the throttle at all--you had to move it where you wanted it! not ideal but Ok for a short time.

    Thanks again for the help and suggestions.

    Tom Volk

  5. #5
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomvolk View Post
    Ok

    Thanks for the input.

    I disassembled as much of the throttle assembly as possible but could not get it apart as far as I hoped.

    The problem appears to be that the end of the wrapped spring that fits into the hole in the plastic has broken part of the tip off. This results in the wrap spring not functioning since the tip will not stay in the hole. This also explains the scratches and gouging in the plastic near the hole as the tip drags across the plastic. There is still a 'tip' but it is not long enough to stay in the hole and hold position. I checked and the hole is plenty deep so I think a longer tip allow the wrap spring to function to 'return' the throttle to 'rest'. I wish I had a 'good' part to compare so I could confirm my theory! It takes 30 seconds to remove the bar end and spring for inspection.

    I will call my dealer tomorrow and see if they will order a replacement wrap spring and send it to me. I want to get about 600 miles on before I take the RTS in for the initial oil change/inspection. At that point I'll have them check out the throttle. In the meantime--I removed the spring so it does not hang up and/or do further damage to the plastic. There is a slight return tension from the throttle now so the unit is rideable.

    I had old HD bikes where there was no return to the throttle at all--you had to move it where you wanted it! not ideal but Ok for a short time.

    Thanks again for the help and suggestions.

    Tom Volk
    I expect they will have to order a complete throttle assembly.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  6. #6
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    Default Re throttle spring

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I have not had the problem you describe, but I have had a problem with slow response of the throttle body positioner. It makes it seem like I am a newbie, just learning to shift a manual transmission. The revs hang every time I turn off the throttle and I pull in the clutch. It is on the dealer's list for my warranty work.

    I know you are an experienced rider, but I highly recommend that everyone learns to close the throttle by hand, forcibly, every time, instead of just letting go and letting the spring do the work. This is especially important with the weaker fly-by-wire throttle return. If you are already doing this, and the throttle sticks, I think you have more serious problems than mere adjustment or lubrication will resolve. Time for the dealer to take a look.
    Is there any point in lubricating the throttle spring

  7. #7
    Very Active Member WA5VHU's Avatar
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    Default

    Make sure you don't have anything mounted on the handlebars that might be squeezing them. I had one of those RAM hose clamp mounts to hold my phone and I really tightened it down snug. Went for a ride and the throttle wouldn't return when released - that really got my attention! I backed off the hose clamp a bit and all was well.

    Ram Hoseclamp Mount.jpg
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RudyB View Post
    Is there any point in lubricating the throttle spring
    I just fixed my friends today. His would not return to the "off" position. i took the end cap off and sprayed in some lubricant, it works fine now. Dust and stuff will build up in them causing friction

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