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Thread: HID's problem

  1. #1
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    Default HID's problem

    Posted in another Spyder forum but would like to post to you all here also for advice:

    Wonder if anyone has had this problem with their HID's. I have tryed three differant HID kits (will not mention names and/or brands but trust me they are not cheap) and the same has happen with all three sets. If this has happened to anyone and they somehow managed to find the problem, would you let me know what the fix is/was:

    Bike will not fire up on the first start from a cold start. Will go to about 700 RPM then shut down. Normally it will start on the second time from a cold start (normally!) At times, once started, I've also had very high RPM's 2,300 - 2,700 where I shut the bike down because RPM's won't drop. Once started and going the bike runs fine and will start (most of the time!) the rest of the day. I have had one problem where it would not start (when bike was at temp) where every fault code was scrolling across the gauge cluster and every idiot light in the gauge cluster was on. When I completely removed my key from the bike, the power and aforementioned problems stayed on or scrolling for I'd say at least 30 - 40 seconds before everything went blank. This problem has happened on at least a couple of occasions now. They bike will finely start after a few minutes, maybe more. I've checked and rechecked every wire, every connection and have found no problems in them or the installation of the HID's. (I installed them myself) I can pull the head light fuse and bike will fire up without a problem. Attempt to put the fuse back in while running the bike will shut down. Remove the HID's, reinstall halogen bulbs and all works fine. Mind you three sets, three differant brands, None cheap (no e-bay types) and all do the exact some thing. What say you, any ideas?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    Default

    What kind of shape is your battery in? Are you plugging into a battery tender?

    I use a battery tender almost every night... keeps the battery nice and healthy.

    I run HID headlights and HID foglights and have no problems at all. Bike starts fine with all 4 turned on. I've heard of some that have to turn the fogs off in order to start---.

    Depending on the kit, some have had problems with interference. Higher price doesn't always = better.

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  3. #3
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    Add the ground wire from the coil to engine, don't let the ballasts touch any part of the frame... keep the wire from the foglights away from the frame... it causes a lot of noise for the spyder computer... and change the bulbs to better ones.... it took me a while to figure those things out but I got all hids now... and no problems.... I got new bulbs from xenonguru.com, and they're philips brand bulbs... may be a little better quality bulb than the ones with the kits....

    Good luck

    Dennis

  4. #4
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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    Intall the ballast away from the ECM. We have this problem with Dave01.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default hid lights

    same as above--but here's my 2c's. Can-Am has a special wiring harness that is supposed to be used with their hid's and foglights. I had this installed when both were put in, and have not had performance issues or electrical problems with the system. Bike always starts right up and I leave the lights on all the time.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  6. #6
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    Default

    Magicman

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