Spyder Assmbly Manual (out of the crate)

[strats]

Has anyone out there in Slyderlovers land got or have access to the pages that come in the crate with a RT-S that tell the shop how to assemble?

Mine went in for it's 1000k service yesterday, and to have the remote frunk release and frunk light fixed (which hasn't worked from new) but to no avail... all I got was " there is no power to the light and the release has me puzzled, need to talk to BRP"

I just wanted to have a look at the section involved in mounting the front... before I pull it off myself to see if I can trace the problem for myself.

Thanks in advance.

[NancysToy]

Are you sure they don't work? They run through the load-shedding relay, so the engine must be running for them to work. The light is weak at best...I had to ask Lamont where to find it, even in the dark. Doesn't shed as much light as a match. The trunk latch may need adjustment. Many were adjusted too tight. I would recommend some lubrication, too. It should be able to be tested by opening the trunk, then using a screwdriver to close the bearclaw latch. Start the Spyder, then watch the latch as you hit the button. If it opens, the problem is in the adjustment. If not, some wiring connectors were probably left disconnected. My left foglight connector was never done at setup.

[strats]

Thanks Scotty, had tried all that before, key off, key on , Spyder running... nothing.
Had also tried the latch like you suggested, opened the bonnet, closed the latch, hels the microswitch down and had someone activate the switch... there isn't even any noise from the actuator.
I can only assume, like you, that there is a connector that isn't.

[NancysToy]

I took a look at the wiring diagram, and the hood actuator grounds through the case opening switch (that turns on the light). A bad switch could also cause the problem. Wire from the trunk opening switch to the actuator is green/violet, and has three connectors, one at the switch, one at the actuator, and one in between. Wire from actuator to case switch is gray/brown, and is connected only at each end. Wire that feeds LED is lt. green/gray and is part of the harness, with no intermediate connectors. From LED to case opening switch is lt. green/violet, and is connected only at each end. Ground wire is black, and is part of the harness attached to the case switch. From your description, only a bad or disconnected case switch could cause both the light and actuator to fail (unless the load shedding relay has some bad contacts. If you can't get it to a dealer to look at it, I would test the voltage and ground at the case opening microswitch first.

[MouthPiece]

Might want to take a look on pages 465 and 466 of the 2010 Can Am Service Manual for RT series. It deals with the electrical and the "frunk light".

[strats]

All sorted guys.

Looking at page 467 of the shop manual, or in fact any page showing the microswitch, it seems the "genius", and I use that word very loosely, had put the connector on the wrong way so the connector to pin 1 was just floating in the air above the arm of the switch.
Just went and flipped it over and all is fine.

Once again, thanks Scotty and MouthPiece.