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 Cold day- Spyder didn't like it
I rode to work today- 24f on the way in at 7am.
15f when I went out for lunch.
Wind blowing 40mph gusts.
Started the SE5 Spyder and it lit up a code- check transmission it said and it wouldn't go into gear. It wouldn't rev either-it was in neutral and I tried to warm it up a bit faster by raising rpms to 2500-3000 but it would act like it was bouncing off a fuel cutoff at about 2000. It would idle so I let it warm up for 2-3 minutes.
Shut it off, waited briefly while the cold wind blew and my heated gear was off, restart- problem gone.
Drive home, eat lunch, restart, no problems. Drive up the street- check engine code lights up- seems to be running fine. I do a uey and it stalls as I go to reverse- restart and no more codes, everything is fine, rode it 20 miles with a few stops, zero problems.
It really didn't like the ocld.
I suspect it had a hard time upon first startup getting itself into neutral from 1st which it does right as it starts, and I bet that caused the trouble lights. Letting it warm up was the only thing I did.
On later stops during the day I intentionally put it in neutral when I stopped and before I shut it off figuring if it was already in neutral it wouldn't have to auto shift itself just as it started.
So: I had a problem, an incident, but not a breakdown, was not really inconvenienced, and I got to ride it all day to all the places I needed to go- reliable, but a little funky, transportation I would say.
It's going to be colder tomorrow...
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I've been thinking of you and Jamie out there ryding today. The wind is wicked out there! It's brutal at "walking speed" let alone moving at any speed on a Spyder! You guys are either hugely courageous or out of your minds!!! 
Hope there's something hot to drink when your ryding is done!!
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out of our minds.....
but i didnt spyder today had a few errands to run and didnt feel like hooking up trailer..... plus dee's driveway is an incline coming out of garage and it was covered in snow and ice from yesterday .... i will get out tomorrow .....
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You both must have mastered the art of 'bundling up"!!
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 Originally Posted by jgwoods
It really didn't like the ocld.
I suspect it had a hard time upon first startup getting itself into neutral from 1st which it does right as it starts, and I bet that caused the trouble lights. Letting it warm up was the only thing I did.
interesting.... makes me wonder if this carries over to the RT. This past fall I spent a few days on an SE5 model and fell in love. I quickly decided that would be the way to go with the RT.
But, my SM5 has treated me well in brutally cold temps without any issues. Would love to hear from other SE users about the effects of these low temps on their SE models..
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What oil are you using? This is one instance where the use of 10W-40 makes a difference. The 5W-40 specified does better at low temperatures, especially under cold-start conditions, and transmission shifting while the oil is cold.
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Hey Nick .. Rode yesterday and today with a 20 degree ambient temp and 30mph winds in NJ.
No problem on a 09 SE5. I usually let it warm up to three bars before moving in this Wx.
No problem with the cold on this one .
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I also have an SE-5 and there have been some cold days here in Tennessee, but I have not had any problems so far. By the way, I always let it warm up to at least two bars before taking off.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by northramp
Hey Nick .. Rode yesterday and today with a 20 degree ambient temp and 30mph winds in NJ.
No problem on a 09 SE5. I usually let it warm up to three bars before moving in this Wx.
No problem with the cold on this one .
That's the key--- let the Spyder warm up until 2 bars before trying to ride - and let it warm up at idle speed--- don't touch the gas when cold.
My dealer specifically told me to wait for 1-2 bars and it's always worked great for me.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Originally Posted by Firefly
That's the key--- let the Spyder warm up until 2 bars before trying to ride - and let it warm up at idle speed--- don't touch the gas when cold.
My dealer specifically told me to wait for 1-2 bars and it's always worked great for me.
Me, too, but we don't have SEs.
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Very Handy Member
My spyder just wants to get running in the cold again. At this point I don't care what the temp is, just get me back on my ride. Now to stay within the conversation of this thread, I have an SM but many a night I didn't wait until 2 or 3 bars to warm up and ride. That is because I work in downtown Flint and get out of work at midnight. I just started her and rode. Sometimes, I think my spyder prefers the cold weather.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
What oil are you using? This is one instance where the use of 10W-40 makes a difference. The 5W-40 specified does better at low temperatures, especially under cold-start conditions, and transmission shifting while the oil is cold.
I am at 2300 miles running on the first oil change done by the dealer- using BRP oil ...I think.
Next change at 3k I'll make sure about what I get. I would normally do it myself, but have no heated work area so I'll have 3a motors do the 3k
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I never let anything warm up by standing still and idling.
As an ASE MAster mechanic, Porsche Audi master mechanic, plus GM, VW, and plenty of Volvo training too the prevailing wisdom has always been to start up and drive off slowly, letting the vehicle warm up as you drive. I will add that all my certifications are from the 80s and have lapsed.
Frankly it's not all that important, and the Spyder seems to be cold blooded so I will probably give it a minute or two of warm up time.
Maybe you haven't noticed the new round of "anti-idling" laws springing up. First it was trucks, now in MA it is all vehicles that are limited to 5 minutes of idling time as the max allowed before you could potentially be cited for breaking the law. I don't know how they would go about enforcing it but the idea has some merit. It won't surprise me at all if cars soon shut themselves down after 5 minutes of idling. All the folks with remote starters will find they only allow 5 minutes of warmup- not the 20 lots of people are used to before they go and get into their toasty warm cars.
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[QUOTE=jgwoods;168552]I never let anything warm up by standing still and idling.
start up and drive off slowly, letting the vehicle warm up as you drive.
 100 per cent.
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nice easy start has always worked for me
+No cold weather concerns for me, and it's been teens/twenties for a few weeks now. I only idle while I toss the briefcase in the trunk and glove up, since I gear up in the house beforehand.
Getting to the roads has been tricky lately, but once there, it's a piece of cake.
My bike's "warmup" is in motion.
Ride on.
Roadkill
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I'm in the start and go crowd. I have read several places that idling is second only to starting up in causing wear and tear to an engine.
edited to add; I couldn't do the start and let warm up anyway, the beast doesn't like to stay running at idle from shortly after start up, to when I get one bar, regardless of how cold ambient temp is. Also, no shifting problems other than that tied to the GPS.
Last edited by txknight67; 01-05-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by dltang
My spyder just wants to get running in the cold again. At this point I don't care what the temp is, just get me back on my ride. Now to stay within the conversation of this thread, I have an SM but many a night I didn't wait until 2 or 3 bars to warm up and ride. That is because I work in downtown Flint and get out of work at midnight. I just started her and rode. Sometimes, I think my spyder prefers the cold weather.
Not mine.... it prefers 75 and sunny
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A few days ago, I decided to take the spyder out in 20F. Everything worked fine except that the throttle wouldn't return to neutral on it's own. It had been left out in the rain a couple of days earlier, so I'm wondering if moisture somehow froze and caused the sticking  .
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Originally Posted by Degaman
A few days ago, I decided to take the spyder out in 20F. Everything worked fine except that the throttle wouldn't return to neutral on it's own. It had been left out in the rain a couple of days earlier, so I'm wondering if moisture somehow froze and caused the sticking .
You think'''' 
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Originally Posted by Degaman
A few days ago, I decided to take the spyder out in 20F. Everything worked fine except that the throttle wouldn't return to neutral on it's own. It had been left out in the rain a couple of days earlier, so I'm wondering if moisture somehow froze and caused the sticking .
i would say ur carb slide is sticking, but since u dot have one  ....the throttle or cable is sticking
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Originally Posted by boborgera
You think''''
therefore I am; I think...
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Registered User
Originally Posted by Degaman
A few days ago, I decided to take the spyder out in 20F. Everything worked fine except that the throttle wouldn't return to neutral on it's own. It had been left out in the rain a couple of days earlier, so I'm wondering if moisture somehow froze and caused the sticking .
Not sure how the throttle control works on the Spyder; is it cable driven - 1 for accelerate and 1 for decelerate, or is the Spyder throttle control electronic???
IF it is cable driven, you may need to lubricate the cables with some oil.
Cheers.
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Originally Posted by groundeffect
Not sure how the throttle control works on the Spyder; is it cable driven - 1 for accelerate and 1 for decelerate, or is the Spyder throttle control electronic???
IF it is cable driven, you may need to lubricate the cables with some oil.
Cheers.
Spyder RS is a two cable throttle. Spyder RT is fly-by-wire...electronic.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Spyder RS is a two cable throttle. Spyder RT is fly-by-wire...electronic.
How does the two cable throttle work? I'm used to sleds that only have one cable. Why are there two?
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