Gosh, I didn't even know they offered them. I put Bikemaster heated grips on mine, they've worked out very well. If you spring for these post up and let us know what you think.
I had the factory heated grips installed on my 22F3S and as I posted a while back; only "on or off" and marginal at 32 F but better than nothing. The Skidoos have a range of heat choices (at least 5 or more) and go from low to hot, much better in my opinion.
Gosh, I didn't even know they offered them. I put Bikemaster heated grips on mine, they've worked out very well. If you spring for these post up and let us know what you think.
Sarah
Back when the earth was still hot, I got a set of Kimpex grip heaters for my Kawasaki Concours. These were the type that had a dropping resistor that enabled a “low” setting. Thought that was a little flaky so I never installed them (sold them on eBay). A year or so later, a bike accessory company named Dual Star (now defunct) came out with some dual element grip heaters. I jumped on those and installed them on my KLR. Worked great but had to watch the voltage output of the bike’s 13A alternator if also using a heated jacket. Had to limit the heat output of the jacket with a heat-troller so the bike’s voltage level (and current draw) stayed at a safe level. Eventually picked up another set for the Connie and used a panel mounted heat-troller for the grips. The Connies stock alternator was 28A, but I eventually swapped that one out with one from a ZZR1200 that was good for 46A, so current draw on that bike was no longer an issue.
The ones I mentioned are a little pricy, so I may have to think about this a little more. I also asked about the Ryker’s electrical output in a different thread, but never got a definitive answer, just a correction on my calling the Ryker’s charging system, an “alternator.” I am planning on installing a voltmeter on the bike so I can monitor the battery level when using my heated jacket, so we’ll see.
Gosh, I didn't even know they offered them. I put Bikemaster heated grips on mine, they've worked out very well. If you spring for these post up and let us know what you think.
Sarah
Well, I did decide to bite the bullet and ordered them from Leaders RPM Shop through eBay; they had the best pricing. Gonna have to pull the LH fairing panel and top cover off, as well as removing the glove box for the install. I have managed run other wiring without pulling glove box, so we'll see.
Overall, I guess it IS a plug-and-play with caveats, but I will also be installing a voltmeter at the same time, so it may make accessing the wiring a little easier. It'll be installed in an unusual place, but should be plenty visible where I'm going to stick it - literally.
Stay tuned. Weather's too nice to be tearing things apart at present, so these projects will have to wait a bit.
EDIT: Interesting where they're pulling power from for the grips..... the (BRP modified) ODB II connector down adjacent to the fuse box.
They provide a pig tail split so the ODB reader function is still available, and that connection feeds a power supply module whose output then feeds two connectors - one for the left, and one for the right. The left grip contains the smarts and control functions for the pair.
I was wondering where they were going to get "healthy" power from for them. Didn't think the switched accessory power available up under the LH cover panel was going to be sufficient, so now I know. I'm using those accessory connections to control relays I've located down near the battery. THEY do my heavy duty, fused switching.
Keep us posted when you start, and on the volt meter too.
2023 Ryker Rally - Heritage White III
Can-AM Sport Windshield, GPS Holder, Parking Brake Lock, and Tank Bag
Ultimate Seat, Providence Cup Holder, MartinTheVlogger Minimalistic Reverse Extension
Baja Ron Sway Bar & Links, Spyder Extras 3 Piece Luggage, Pedal Commander
I've wondered if I made a mistake using the wiring from one of the accessory connectors to power my Bikemaster grips.
Sarah
In one regard, that (switched) connection will keep prying finger from activating your grips when you're away from the bike and running down your battery. Also, IIRC, that connection uses a 7.5A fuse, so you may be pushing the envelope on that, depending on the current draw of the grip heaters at full tilt boogie. Should you add another accessory, the combination might push it over the top and take out the fuse.
Personally, you might want to consider changing the connection so the main draw is fused and running through a relay. Just use the accessory power to switch the relay.
_______________________________
Okay, I started (and finished) installing my grip heaters, and voltmeter today. I didn't have to pull the glove box compartment (per their sketchy instructions) since I was able to run the harness down through an opening in the right rear area behind the LH headlamp. That's where I have run several other leads and I was able to shoehorn the large two OBD plugs through the gap. I used some double-sided trim tape to secure the power supply module to a flat area immediately behind the HL assembly. The plugs from the Left and right grips were connected to the output of the power supply and stashed in that same general area.
While I was in there, I got rid of one of those chicken-#$^& Japanese aircraft accessory connectors BRP uses, and swapped it out with regular MC bullet connectors I get from Eastern Beaver in Japan.
As far as the grips go, they seem to work okay and do get plenty warm, but trying to decipher the fine adjustment steps of BRP's operating instructions can be a little confusing. I guess I'll eventually figure them out when the time comes. Also, the pattern molded in the grips is much more aggressive than in my original grips and might turn out to be too irritating to un-gloved hands, which is the way I ride 99% of the time.
Yes, thanks gb. I've gone the relay route with the Heat Demon under-grip kits on other bikes countless times, should have done it right this time too.
You have a nice bike there, thank you for the pictures.
Sarah
LOL! I have loads of "I shulda done it this way" experiences. Part of life and we (hopefully) learn from it.
Appreciate the comment on the bike. I think I really got lucky in my perfectly timed search for a three-wheeler that was loaded down with options that allow me to continue my long-distance travels without the fear of getting into a predicament that might have me dropping a heavy bike. This getting old thing is a pain!
I've kinda got a handle on how to adjust the temperature setting on the grips now and used them real-time this evening when I rode over to our church's Weds. evening dinner, it was in the low 40's. I had pulled out my gloves to put on but decided to stash them away and just rely on the grips for warmth to my hands. I had them set at about 70% when I left the house, but about halfway in my 3-mile jaunt to the church I had to back them off somewhat; they were getting really warm.... er, make that hot. Their instructions warn you about using gloves for anything at 50% or higher. Being a doubting Thomas, I had to try them out. So now, I'm a believer. These puppies work, and IMHO, it was a wise purchase.
Thanks for the feedback. Folks shopping for a new bike may want to work these into the deal. I sure would.
Sarah
I asked the lady I bought the bike from and she said they considered them, but thought they were a little pricey. They just settled on the wind deflectors for the hand guards. Back then, they just may have been the ON/OFF type with no real temperature control, or an aftermarket version that did. Dunno. I didn't carry on the conversation about them because I was more interested in other stuff about the bike since this was my first time looking at it.
Even today, the price of these things vary considerably depending on whose ad you're looking at. As previously mentioned, Leaders RPM had the lowest so I went with them.
Any Pro/Con comments on Ryker OEM Heated Grips? Anyone installed them?
Spyder & Ryker Custom Modifications
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by greer
