What are you using for a keyring?

[Windhound]

Just brought my new-to-me Spyder home. Neither of the keys have any way to attach them to a key ring... How has this group solved that problem?? I hate just putting it in my pocket and hoping it does not fall out.

Windhound

[Gwolf]

Lots of places sell a cover for the Spyder keys that has a hole for the key ring.

I think some of the vendors here have them.

[Peter Aawen]

Don't you still have the black plastic sheaths the keys came with originally??

They have a small ring thru the hole on the pointy end to let you attach them to a chain, a fob, or whatever, and they seem to work pretty well to me!! Mine still work fine after 10+ years and a lot of miles; and they keep the key's profile in good condition too; no knicks or wear in the profile &/or damage to the grooves etc. despite them often being jammed in amongst a pocket full of other keys, a bunch of coin, and the odd tool, socket, or file etc. where there's been plenty of opportunity for extra wear &/or damage to the important bits!

Failing still having the OEM Sheath, Lamonster & a few others sell 'key fobs' or 'key covers' for the other end of the key, the handle end, that go around the bit of the key you grasp to turn which have holes in them for a wire or key ring; and if you search back thru the older threads here, there's a bunch of info on how to locate the right spot and drill a hole thru the handle end of the key so you can add a key ring.

Mind you, IMHO the OEM Key Sheath is still by far the best option, and IIRC, you can even get new replacements from BRP... not sure how expensive they might be tho?!

[Dusterdude]

Crazy metalman on the jungle website

[JB62]

Crazy metalman on the jungle website

This is what I use, they can be bought from Amazon.

[Cobwebs]

Oh jezuz, come on who else carries a file around in their pocket, own up!

[Elwood58]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDNHJMR...roduct_details

[happyspyder2039]

I swallow the key and regurgitate when needed. No key ring needed. Tried to get on with the circus but couldn’t multi task and swallow fire like they wanted. So I stick to my usual routine.

[racoon]

Here's what the original CAN-AM keys and their plastic sheaths look like.

https://anvis.iaai.com/resizer?image...845&height=633

As you can see, there's a hole at the end of the sheath, which I have attached to a keyring, which also has my house key, and the lock key/pin for the Arkon motorcycle mount I use for a Garmin Zumo XT GPS.


MC25MMB mount.jpg

[Vinkon]

Drill a hole in them. Lamonster has video showing where to safely drill.

[troop]

This is what I use, they can be bought from Amazon.

Damn .. They went up stupid in price. I paid $13 a few years back. I also have these. Can't really lose them https://www.slingmods.com/canam-spyd...ers?search=key

[BigPoppa]

I use the a generic key ring attached to the OEM plastic sheath. I don’t like having a key ring attached to the key itself while riding because I don’t like the added weight pulling on the key over time while it’s in the ignition and I don’t want scratches from a key ring rubbing against the body work.

[Snoking1127]

Here's what the original CAN-AM keys and their plastic sheaths look like.

https://anvis.iaai.com/resizer?image...845&height=633

As you can see, there's a hole at the end of the sheath, which I have attached to a keyring, which also has my house key, and the lock key/pin for the Arkon motorcycle mount I use for a Garmin Zumo XT GPS.


MC25MMB mount.jpg

When stopping for lunch, the key goes in the little watch pocket of my riding pants. The rest of the time it is on the OEM key holder on my key ring.

[LALoner]

Simple hang around the neck and under the shirt.

IMG_0870.jpg

[Gwolf]

FYI information - Not related to Spyder, but possibly could be. My old 2010 F-150 has an electronic chip embedded in the head of the key to activate an antitheift device of the ignition switch. After about 10 or 12 years the plastic part covering the head of the key had deteriorated to the point that one day when I stuck the key in the truck door to unlock the door, the plastic part broke into several pieces and fell on the partking lot. The key with a bare head was still sticking in the truck door. I saw that a round coin shaped piece was missing out of the bare key. Found the little coin shaped piece on the asphalt below the truck door. I picked that up and stuck it back in the broken key. As long as the coin shaped piece was held in the broken key by hand, the truck would start. Once the truck was started, it would keep running even if you put the coin shaped piece in the console tray.

I already knew that a locksmith would charge well over $100 to reproduce a set of working keys compatable with the truck anti-theift ignition. Since the broken key would start the truck if the coin shaped anti-theift device was held in place, there was no reason to give a locksmith $100 or get out the extra keys for the truck. I had a couple of JB Weld epoxy sets in my tool box. When I got back home, I cleaned all the broken, deteriorated plastic off the bare key. Roughed up the key some with course sand paper to help the JB Weld hold. I put the coin shaped piece back in the round hole it came out of. Tried it in the truck to be sure it would start the truck. It did, so I completely covered the key, with the anti-theift coin device back in place, with JB Weld. First covering was a little messy looking due to having to be smeared on. I let that cure for 48 hours. Then sanded the JB Weld down smooth and re-shaped the edges to a smooth finish. Tried the repaired key in the truck, and it worked. I put one more thinner coat of JB Weld on the key to make it stronger. After it cured, I sanded that down smooth, drilled a hole in the top that would miss the anti-theift device, and painted it black.

The key repaired with JB Weld is stronger than the original plastic truck keys. Still using the repaired key, years later, and it works fine every time. It cost about $4 worth of JB Weld to fix the key instead of > $100 to a locksmith. The only difference in the repaired key and the original is the lack of the brand logo on it, and that has nothing to do with the way it works.

[Navydad]

FYI information - Not related to Spyder, but possibly could be. My old 2010 F-150 has an electronic chip embedded in the head of the key to activate an antitheift device of the ignition switch. After about 10 or 12 years the plastic part covering the head of the key had deteriorated to the point that one day when I stuck the key in the truck door to unlock the door, the plastic part broke into several pieces and fell on the partking lot. The key with a bare head was still sticking in the truck door. I saw that a round coin shaped piece was missing out of the bare key. Found the little coin shaped piece on the asphalt below the truck door. I picked that up and stuck it back in the broken key. As long as the coin shaped piece was held in the broken key by hand, the truck would start. Once the truck was started, it would keep running even if you put the coin shaped piece in the console tray.

I already knew that a locksmith would charge well over $100 to reproduce a set of working keys compatable with the truck anti-theift ignition. Since the broken key would start the truck if the coin shaped anti-theift device was held in place, there was no reason to give a locksmith $100 or get out the extra keys for the truck. I had a couple of JB Weld epoxy sets in my tool box. When I got back home, I cleaned all the broken, deteriorated plastic off the bare key. Roughed up the key some with course sand paper to help the JB Weld hold. I put the coin shaped piece back in the round hole it came out of. Tried it in the truck to be sure it would start the truck. It did, so I completely covered the key, with the anti-theift coin device back in place, with JB Weld. First covering was a little messy looking due to having to be smeared on. I let that cure for 48 hours. Then sanded the JB Weld down smooth and re-shaped the edges to a smooth finish. Tried the repaired key in the truck, and it worked. I put one more thinner coat of JB Weld on the key to make it stronger. After it cured, I sanded that down smooth, drilled a hole in the top that would miss the anti-theift device, and painted it black.

The key repaired with JB Weld is stronger than the original plastic truck keys. Still using the repaired key, years later, and it works fine every time. It cost about $4 worth of JB Weld to fix the key instead of > $100 to a locksmith. The only difference in the repaired key and the original is the lack of the brand logo on it, and that has nothing to do with the way it works.

Exactly what I would have done I have DESS disabled on my Spyder so that little item isn't an issue any longer.

[Gekko]

Drill a hole in them. Lamonster has video showing where to safely drill.

Just offering an assist here; the video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFmAHsv5JmA

With great anxiety, I did this; it worked out fine.

You might also take a look at this thread: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-with-that-key

This one is good too: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...yder-key-video

[Bfromla]

I swallow the key and regurgitate when needed. No key ring needed. Tried to get on with the circus but couldn’t multi task and swallow fire like they wanted. So I stick to my usual routine.

That’s what she said

[troop]

Here is a side/side of the MetalMan key holder and the one carried by Slingmods. The Slingmods key holder allows you to carry extra keys that won’t make contact with the dash cover. I like it better. Just some FYI …