2012 RT SE5 Tranny won't disengage at idle - anyone else? Ideas on cause?

[mekmdg]

Hi All,

I am sure this has been answered, but I did not find quite the same thing elsewhere...

My 2012 Spyder RT SE5 has given me 34,000 flawless miles of fun. Yesterday, suddenly while riding, I noticed at the stop lights and such that I have to keep the brake mashed to keep from rolling forward. The trans is not disengaging at idle RPM. The idle is spot on at ~1350 RPM. Now when I start (if in gear), the bike lurches forward. I can tell the engine is working hard to keep idle while mashing the brake to hold it still. So I am certain something about the trans is amiss. Has anyone seen this and know of the root cause?


Thanks,
Mark

[Yabbadabbadoo]

Sounds exactly like the problem I had last year with my F3. Turned out to be a loose clutch hub nut.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-idle-problem

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hi All,

I am sure this has been answered, but I did not find quite the same thing elsewhere...

My 2012 Spyder RT SE5 has given me 34,000 flawless miles of fun. Yesterday, suddenly while riding, I noticed at the stop lights and such that I have to keep the brake mashed to keep from rolling forward. The trans is not disengaging at idle RPM. The idle is spot on at ~1350 RPM. Now when I start (if in gear), the bike lurches forward. I can tell the engine is working hard to keep idle while mashing the brake to hold it still. So I am certain something about the trans is amiss. Has anyone seen this and know of the root cause?


Thanks,
Mark

Hey Mark. Well, your SE5 clutch is nothing similar to an SE6 clutch. So his problem with a loose nut doesn't apply. Those two clutches don't share any DNA.

Unfortunately, I'm sorry to tell you that your issue is most likely a failed wave spring in the centrifugal clutch assembly. I say that because it happened suddenly. Let me explain.

The SE5 clutch assembly is basically a standard clutch pack sandwiched between two pressure plates. On the right hand side on the outside, is a hydraulic piston and pressure plate that is operated by the Hydraulic Control Module (HCM). It is always in the "engaged" position - trying to push into the clutch pack - except for when shifting gears. Then it is momentarily "disengaged" during the shift, and re-engaged.

At the other end of the clutch pack on the inside, is the centrifugal clutch unit. It has roller weights in it. As engine RPM increases, these roller weights are flung outward by centrifugal force and directed inward towards the clutch pack. They act against and overcome the spring force of the wave spring disc. They apply an inward force to another pressure plate that applies the clamping force to the clutch pack. So, when you are at speed and RPM, the clutch pack has clamping force applied from both ends by the two pressure plates.

When engine RPM decreases, the wave spring applies the counter force to the roller weights and causes them to return to their low RPM position, removing the clamping force on the clutch pack, and thus the clutch pack disengages. A failure of the wave spring then, causes the roller weights to remain partially flung outward, and causes your clutch to drag.

It's only a 30 dollar part, and can be replaced individually. However, you'll just need to disassemble the entire clutch just to get to it. If you feel confident, invest in a shop manual, buy the parts, (oil, gaskets, etc) and you can do it yourself. However, if you believe that is beyond you, and a dealer won't touch it because it is too old, a good bike mechanic can handle it. Just supply him with the parts and the manual. Good Luck.

[mekmdg]

Hi Doug,

Thanks for the thorough write up. I do have the manuals and the job is a bit of a big one. But I don't have the 5 special tools listed in the manuals, that is the big problem. Just spoke with Sierra Cycles in Sierra Vista, AZ. While they have never heard of this malfunction, they agree with your assessment and the estimate for repair is only 2.5 hrs + parts. That is so reasonable that it is not worth my time to try to repair myself (even with a 4 hour drive to get the bike to them). After talking to their service guys on the phone, I can see why their reviews are so strong and positive...
This bike will ride again!

Here is our bike in Xmas parade season dress:


Thanks,
Mark

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Mark. Yeah, this failure is not common at all. You’re only the third one I remember seeing on here in 12 years. If it wasn’t for that, we would have never heard about it, either. Glad you found a good shop. Be safe out there.

The 2012 RT is the best. My old friend.....