Spyder RS 2012 SE5 VSS failure

[HaciAbi]

After waiting months to register my spyder it finally came through and I was so happy I could drive.
After only my second drive it showed me a VSS fault, blinking CEL, check DPS and went into Limp mode.

Codes I got:
C0051 - steering wheel position sensor failure
P2545 - VSS failure
U0122 - DPS
P0826 - transmission control module

I am not getting any wiser with these codes, any one of them could be the real fault.
When I drive in Limp mode it won't go over like 3000rpm but when I shift I can go faster (so shifting in low rpm which I know the spyder don't really like) and it shifts fine.
I already checked the fuses and disconnected the battery for 2 days, drove the spyder around the block just now for like 20 minutes and still the same. The codes won't clear.
I don't have access to BUDS and the nearest dealer is like an hour away.

Can anyone maybe point me in the right direction?

Much appreciated.

[pegasus1300]

Just for your own information call that Spyder dealer and make sure they are willing to work on your Spyder. Not all are willing to deal with a Spyder that's more than 10 years old. Next, how old is your battery? Could it be getting close to failure? Is it fully charged? Are the terminal screws tight? Can you get it load tested? Many auto parts stores will do that for you. These are the places I'd go to first.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

After waiting months to register my spyder it finally came through and I was so happy I could drive.
After only my second drive it showed me a VSS fault, blinking CEL, check DPS and went into Limp mode.

Codes I got:
C0051 - steering wheel position sensor failure
P2545 - VSS failure
U0122 - DPS
P0826 - transmission control module

I am not getting any wiser with these codes, any one of them could be the real fault.
When I drive in Limp mode it won't go over like 3000rpm but when I shift I can go faster (so shifting in low rpm which I know the spyder don't really like) and it shifts fine.
I already checked the fuses and disconnected the battery for 2 days, drove the spyder around the block just now for like 20 minutes and still the same. The codes won't clear.
I don't have access to BUDS and the nearest dealer is like an hour away.

Can anyone maybe point me in the right direction?

Much appreciated.

Well I'm guessing this is a Used Spyder .... what was it doing when you first looked at it ????, Have you had the battery Load tested ....Mike .

[BajaRon]

Like Mike said. Check battery and connections first. Low voltage will send the computer into fit. It will start throwing all kinds of codes. Once you eliminate the battery (low voltage) as a source, then proceed on to other options. Falling to less than 11 volts during startup will do this.

[HaciAbi]

Thank you all for your replies.

Battery is a year old, bought it new when I got the spyder and it's not used much. Charged it once every month and stored it inside throughout the winter.
Also fully charged before I put it back into the spyder a week ago.

Terminals are tight and clean.

Yesterday I checked the battery with a multimeter and it was showing 12.7 volts.
I took it out for charging and after it was charged it showed 14 volts. Put it back into the spyder and drove around the block for 10 mins.
The fault was still there and when I checked again after it was showing 13 volts. So can I assume the battery is OK?

When it first showed the VSS fault and went into limp mode, I took off from the traffic lights driving straight up until 70kmh when it suddenly started to "choke".
I stopped and took the key out for a minute or 2 and started with no faults. After driving 100 meters it started choking again and gave the fault. This time permanent.

[Mikey]

How old is the gas? Have you put any dry gas in it? Maybe a shot of carb cleaner. Have you replaced your vacuum lines on your map sensor? Good Luck!!

[HaciAbi]

How old is the gas? Have you put any dry gas in it? Maybe a shot of carb cleaner. Have you replaced your vacuum lines on your map sensor? Good Luck!!

Hello Mikey, now that you mention the gas. I just used local regular gas but it's been in there since october last year. I totally forgot about it.
I did put an injector cleaner when I filled it up. Could this be the problem? Might have to drain it put some fresh gas in.

No I did not replace the vacuum lines on the map sensor.

[Fvee3]

I have a 2023 Ryker less than a year old; went out to ride today and discovered the battery is junk - got a VSS code then Check Key. Changed the battery, now all is good.

[Mikey]

Hello Mikey, now that you mention the gas. I just used local regular gas but it's been in there since october last year. I totally forgot about it.
I did put an injector cleaner when I filled it up. Could this be the problem? Might have to drain it put some fresh gas in.

No I did not replace the vacuum lines on the map sensor.

I would check those lines if they haven't been done... They're due!!

[HaciAbi]

I would check those lines if they haven't been done... They're due!!

Ordered them today. I will replace them asap.

[Bfromla]

Load test the battery, vacuum hose swap, & fuel treatment that needs mixing in (sloshing is a normal process when riding - not so much when sitting) - you probably still have unknown amounts of old gas past the pump & in the lines.

[HaciAbi]

Load test the battery, vacuum hose swap, & fuel treatment that needs mixing in (sloshing is a normal process when riding - not so much when sitting) - you probably still have unknown amounts of old gas past the pump & in the lines.

Just siphon the old gas and put new in? Anything else I can do?
I also ordered the fuel filter and the hoses so that's also on my to do list.

[DickB]

With those error codes all over the place, it suggests a more systemic problem than a single sensor or module. One more battery check with your multimeter is to measure voltage while cranking.

A SAS (Steering Angle Sensor) problem can cause a VSS fault. You need BUDS to rezero it, but one Ryker owner reportedly cleared a SAS fault by steering lock to lock while driving. Worth a try?

[Bfromla]

Just siphon the old gas and put new in? Anything else I can do?
I also ordered the fuel filter and the hoses so that's also on my to do list.

Maybe; you won’t have to empty the tank, just siphon out enough to put some more clean stuff back in. I was thinking more along the lines of just rocking the Spyder side to side, back & forth to mix it, for simplicity. Won’t be great - it'll be better after starting it & then just ryding it will do the rest. Next fill up, put the additive in first, then fill.

Sorry, that will not clear the code, but it should help purge any old, contaminated gas. Dealer &/or self-resolution will about be it for clearing codes. Double check the wires & sensors, hopefully there's no critter damage?

[HaciAbi]

Maybe; you won’t have to empty the tank, just siphon out enough to put some more clean stuff back in. I was thinking more along the lines of just rocking the Spyder side to side, back & forth to mix it, for simplicity. Won’t be great - it'll be better after starting it & then just ryding it will do the rest. Next fill up, put the additive in first, then fill.

Sorry, that will not clear the code, but it should help purge any old, contaminated gas. Dealer &/or self-resolution will about be it for clearing codes. Double check the wires & sensors, hopefully there's no critter damage?

Thanks, will try. I will also try what DickB suggested with the steering position sensor. However, I am afraid that it is going to be the steering position sensor that's faulty.

I found another topic:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...S-quot-warning

He is saying in post #15 that he got the check DPS and VSS fault and it went into limp mode - Same as mine. Last post, he is mentioning that the steering position sensor was replaced, and all was good.

The part costs about €644 and I can replace it myself, but I still need BUDS to reset/calibrate the system.
Found an ATV dealer half an hour's drive away where they sell and maintain different brands, also Spyders. Will check with them if they can reset for me. But first I need to be sure that it's the sensor that's faulty before ordering.

[DickB]

I picked up a used Ryker SAS for $70 and a used Spyder yaw rate sensor for $30 on eBay. Both worked fine. I do have BUDS to calibrate them.

[Mikey]

Ordered them today. I will replace them asap.

I would have gone to your local auto parts store and got them, would have been cheaper.

[HaciAbi]

I picked up a used Ryker SAS for $70 and a used Spyder yaw rate sensor for $30 on eBay. Both worked fine. I do have BUDS to calibrate them.

It's not so easy to find used parts in Europe. When I search on ebay, most of the parts are being shipped from the US. Unfortunately import/customs fees are a thing.
How reliable can a used sensor be?

I would have gone to your local auto parts store and got them, would have been cheaper.

Maybe that was a better idea lol.