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 How hard is Rear shock replacement on 2017 RTS SE6?
Is it really hard to do without taking side panels off?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-10-2024 at 05:26 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
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Very Active Member
Are you afraid of taking the panels off? I think you're going to have to take the top panel off to get the top bolt! Good luck!
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Very Active Member
How hard most mechanical work is (or work of any kind), depends more on who is doing it, than on some man hour flat rate manual.
It is a trick question.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
For those that do their own maintenance and mod installations, removing tupperware and replacing it is a way of life with a Spyder. I use a little 1/4" 4V electric screwdriver and have two types of push pin pullers. Magic mirrors are a nice addition when working on the front tupperware. There are lots of Youtubes on doing just about anything one wants to DIY.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
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I don't find this task fun like many other things I enjoy wrenching on the Spyders - but I don't find it "difficult" either. But then I work on them as a hobby gig. You won't reach the the top bolt/nut without removing the panels though.
Best I can remember without having the Spyder sitting in front of me...
1) Take Mirrors off.
2) Take front upper panels off.
3) Take long upper side panels off.
4) Disconnect the Swingarm limit switch on the left side.
5) Remove top Shock Nut - I use long extensions - fished through all the stuff in the way to reach the top bolt. I use a ratchet and long extensions on both sides - this would be easier with an extra set of hands - but I usually don't have any available.
6) Remove bottom Shock Nut.
7) Jack up the back of the Spyder - I use my jack on the center rail as far back as possible - usually have the front tires on ramps/blocked. Trick here is to find the sweet spot where there is no load on the shock in either direction and the shock bolt pulls out easily.
8) Re-installing the top nut is a bit of a contortionist act - but I lay on the ground below the Spyder and reach way up to get the nut started. I find this easier when the bottom of the shock oil not bolted up yet so you can wiggle/move the shock to get your hand up in there better.
9) Reverse the steps.
Last edited by Jdr00ejr; 02-12-2024 at 09:15 AM.
Reason: Re-read original question - added statement that panels definitely have to be removed.
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Joshua
2012 Victory Vision
2016 Spyder F3S
2019 Spyder RT Limited
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Very Active Member
Like Joshua Said, Easy, Peasy, I did my 2013 RTL just like that.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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