2013 RT Ltd started o/heating & Limp Mode - what to look for/check?
I have a 2013 RT Limited, while going to work yesterday it started to overheat and went to Limp mode, I have checked the most obvious like the coolant tank, the fan fuse because the fans do not seem to be engaging can somebody that has either had this problem or may know what to look and check for I would really appreciate the advice.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-04-2024 at 07:53 AM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question/s... ;-)
Obviously, you need a proper level of coolant in the tank and ensure that the front of the radiator isn't covered in bugs. It appears you've done all that.
There is one temperature sensor that feeds the ECM. Then the ECM drives everything else, like the gauge, the fan and the trip into Limp Mode. It appears that your sensor is sending a valid signal.
So, going to your thoughts, if the fan isn't working it can either be the fuse or the relay. (Well, and the fan maybe, but that's another story) And then. of course, we run into BRP's sloppy editing of their reference material. The fuse and relay are in the Left Fuse Box - left as your are sitting on the bike. Attached is the diagram of the Left Fuse Box from the 2013 shop manual. You'll notice that the labelling for the J-Case fuses are backwards from what you have in the back of your Owners Guide. The numbering, 1 - 5, is correct. The labels in the table below the picture are backwards. My sense is that your Owners Guide is the incorrect one, because, the fan fuse is next to the fan relay in all of the other guides. In other words, if you checked the fuse, as indicated by your owners guide, it was the wrong one. The wiring diagram shows that the fan fuse is J-Case fuse number 5, not number 1. And that is consistent with the other similar 998 machines, where the Owner's Guides were corrected.
So, check J-Case fuse number 5 as shown in the attached picture. Don't just visual it, but remove it and either test it or replace it. If all is good, check the Fan Relay. Check that it is all the way in and seated. To remove it, you can grab the thing and pull straight out. Check the pins for corrosion, cleanliness, etc, and re-install. To replace it, you can find equivalent relays at the auto parts store of your choice.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 01-04-2024 at 10:36 AM.
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The Spyder reservoir has to be the most difficult to get an accurate reading .... I have a 14 RT ( different engine - yes ) .... I had a similar OVER-HEATING issue ... I Thought the reservoir was full .....IT Wasn't ... it continued to over-heat ... So I added more coolant until it ALMOST over-flowed .... Then it stopped over-heating .... The system is designed to EXPELL any excess coolant. ... If you have pets make sure you clean up any coolant .... OR they will clean it up ....and DIE ..... hopes this helps ....Mike
Thermostat & or water pump impeller as well as age of coolant; 2y flush & fresh. **!** do NOT mix colors **!**. Unfortunately having already overheated is also likely chances of heads warping. Thermostat is in a housing 381412F2-05BE-4FC5-9E98-DA1FB17E0420.jpgRH (sitting on bike).
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Thank you to all of you that took the time to send me your thoughts and comments, after further checking the fuse, relay and coolant tank it appears the fan motor has frozen up. (the fan blades will not turn at all by hand) now the next question has anybody ever replaced a fan motor before? Going to be the ultimate challenge!
I actually don’t recall ever hearing of that on here before. But it must have happened to others at some point…maybe. Anyway, I trust that you have looked closely for any foreign material jamming up the works? Just start taking stuff apart. Here's some guidance.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Thanks for the schematic, really appreciate it, do you happen to know the location of the temperature sensor?
Sure. Refer to pic. The Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is over on the left side. But, if your fan has seized up and not running when required, it looks like the CTS was doing its job and indicating properly. Probably not a concern for this job, unless you're just curious about it.
The Thermostat - which is mentioned in the procedure - is shown on the picture on the second page of the procedure. It just mounts to that duct for support and needs to be moved out of the way. You should be able to replace that fan without actually taking apart anything in the coolant system.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 01-06-2024 at 07:53 AM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238