Well, that didn't take long... First fault on my new 2023 RTL! Air Suspension Fault.
I picked the Spyder up yesterday and trailered it home due to cold weather. I was anticipating watching it sit in the garage over the winter months before getting a chance to ride it. Today, the outside temp reached a balmy 40 degrees. I couldn't take it anymore, so I bundled up and went for a spin. About 15 miles down the road, the Spyder threw a "Suspension fault". I turned around and came home. After reading numerous posts on this forum, I see that this is a common problem with the RTLs. This is a 2023 RTL. I looked underneath and took a pic. Does this pic show the common problem of a disconnected ride height adjuster lever? I think the ride height adjuster lever or whatever it is called ("A") should be attached to the swingarm ("B"). It doesn't seem to reach. If I can manage to attach this, doesn't the system have to be hooked up to BUDS to properly calibrate? Should I now be worried about a burned-out compressor? I'll be calling the dealer in the morning.
Yes, this is a very common failure when dealers/techs don't do the pre-delivery properly! But Bolt A itself shouldn't connect to the Swingarm at B, it's the other end of the 6" or so long link/arm that looks like it's tucked up out of the way, going forward from bolt A & heading toward the top left of your pic that should be connected to the swingarm at B! Why so many dealers/techs just can't manage to follow the instructions and do this simple thing before handing over a Spyder to a new owner is really beyond me!
With any luck, if your Spyder is like most I've seen where connecting this arm before delivery has been over-looked, then I think you'll find that the BUDS calibration thing has been done already at the factory, and all you need to do is jack the bike up a little so that the swing arm extends down juuust enough, then pull the link down and connect it - you'll need a bolt to thread into the connector on the swing arm too. Once that's done, just check to make sure there's some air in the air bag - I've found they generally need about 5-10psi in them in order to let the system set itself going properly, so if the bag is empty, you might need to add a touch of air via the Schraeder valve that should be under the seat (do 2023 models still have that valve?! )
And NO, you really shouldn't be too worried about a burned-out compressor after such a short while without it connected, especially since you got the 'suspension fault' message. Personally, I'd just take a bunch more pics and connect the link myself, taking pics of EVERYTHING you find and do, so that if you DO end up needing to go to the dealer, you have that fully documented. And I'd certainly be giving the dealer a serve about it, but unless they are prepared to fix it as & when you arrive there AND to let you stand there and watch everything they do so that you KNOW they've actually done it, then I wouldn't be leaving it!!
For most new Spyders delivered like that, it's just a matter of finding a suitable bolt; then pulling the link down/jacking the frame up so the swing arm droops a small amount; connecting the link to the swing arm with the bolt you found, plus making sure there's a little air in the bag to start with; then riding off! It should take maybe 10-15 minutes MAXIMUM, likely somewhat less if you've ever spun a spanner before & can still get down there & back up, cos it's really nothing difficult at all....
So if you want to risk leaving your new Spyder sitting around at the dealer's for who knows how many weeks while it's waiting for a tech who's already shown that they're basically incapable of doing such a simple thing, then that's your call, and I do know there's a principle involved, but for the maybe 15 minutes that it'd likely take you to do it so that you KNOW it's been done, I certainly wouldn't be handing it back to them &/or trusting someone to work on it who has already shown that they likely need help & supervision in order to follow the fairly basic pre-delivery instructions about doing this!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-27-2023 at 03:33 PM.
Another item to check is the rear shock lower bolt. There are two spacers, one on each side of the shock eye. A common mistake is not installing the spacers leading to misaligned rear shock and sometimes one side of the bolt comes loose because proper tension cannot be achieved without the spacers.
Search is your friend.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
Thank you @Peter Aawen for posting your details! I also bought a new 2023 RT Limited in the last few weeks and had two suspension issues ... likely different but possibly related?
1) The first was a crazy setup tech mistake ... they forgot to remove the "shipping widget" (bolt) that holds the rear suspension locked in the compressed position while in the shipping crate. Spyder rode like a very bumpy hard-tail bike! Am I correct this is a different bolt than in the photo above? Dealer graciously fixed it while I waited and issued numerous apologies!
2) In the first 200 miles ... I also received a "Suspension Fault" message (error code C210A). When I called the service manager, he said that as long as it was an isolated event (and doesn't occur repeatedly) it is 85+% likely to be a "communication fault" (CAN bus failure) rather than a real issue with the suspension system. He also asked me to call him right away if it happened again. Since the original issue that @GrayRyder posted had a likely real cause ... I don't think my experience is related. Merely tossing it out here as possibly helpful information for anyone else who might have experienced it too.
Another item to check is the rear shock lower bolt. There are two spacers, one on each side of the shock eye. A common mistake is not installing the spacers leading to misaligned rear shock and sometimes one side of the bolt comes loose because proper tension cannot be achieved without the spacers.
Search is your friend.
Having dealt with this on a friends newer Spyder, the primary concern, obviously is getting the lower shock mount assembled correctly. Better still is to verify the Spyder was assembled correctly to be safe.
Since your Spyder is new, utilize your warranty options and have the dealer make corrections and repairs.
Hey Gray. Maybe this is all too late, but if you come back to this thread, let's just add a picture and expand on what Peter was saying, if you decide to fix this yourself and save time. A does not directly connect to B, if that's what you were saying. Look closely and you'll see a heim link kind of thing already connected to A, pointing forward. The other end of that link connects to B. So, with your hand, rotate the arm A straight up, swing down the helm link and attach the other end of that to B.
If you need more room between the link and the swing arm, just lift up your seat and add some air to the airbag.
Yes, the bolt is probably missing. It's metric. You'll figure it out. Use some blue thread locker. And as you go to tighten the bolt into the rivet nut on the swing arm, the body of it will probably start to spin. You'll have to hold that in the back of it to stop that. Just snug it down and let the thread locker do the rest of the work. When you're all done, it should look like this pic.
Your compressor probably hasn't been running at all based on the deflated look of the airbag. Remember, as the frame moves down - with respect to the swing arm - the helm link pushes the sensor arm up. That tells the system to add air to raise the frame back up. As the frame moves up, that pulls the sensor arm down - where yours is - and that tells the system to let air out in order to lower the frame. Your system "thinks" that the frame is too high, even though it isn't. You haven't hurt the compressor at all.
You typically won't need a calibration done. The default values for the high and low limits are loaded as part of the initial ECM software load. A calibration is not part of PDI. As long as it is not topping out or bottoming out while riding, you're good to go. If you do have issues later, it's a warranty fix. Good Luck.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 11-27-2023 at 10:54 AM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
A hearty thanks to all that have responded. Thanks for the pic Snowbelt Spyder. I had located that arm thanks to Peter, and pics always help. I think I found the bolt size in another thread (M6 x 20). I am happy to hear that in all likelihood, there is no damage to the compressor or elsewhere! I am certainly happy that I found this forum.
Another item to check is the rear shock lower bolt. There are two spacers, one on each side of the shock eye. A common mistake is not installing the spacers leading to misaligned rear shock and sometimes one side of the bolt comes loose because proper tension cannot be achieved without the spacers.
Search is your friend.
Thank you for this info. I took a quick pic. Does this look correct?
In the Bad Old Days, every garage had a "grease monkey" who wanted to learn to be a mechanic. Unfortunately, the "learn" circuit on Can-Am techs seems to be disconnected at the factory.
Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
UltraGard Full Cover, Front & Rear Cup Holders, Elka Stage 2 Rear Shock, TC & Dave Signal Button, Spyder Extras Sway Bar
Thank you for this info. I took a quick pic. Does this look correct?
Ummm. No. It doesn’t, because both sides of the shock should look the same. But they don’t. There are two metal spacers on each side of the shock with a flange on one end. The flange goes next to the shock, where the flange from the rubber shock bushing is. On your picture, the lower spacer looks correct. I see the spacer flange and rubber shock bushing flange up against each other. On the upper spacer in your picture, I’m only seeing the rubber flange, as though that spacer is on backwards. But, the pic doesn’t show the other end. Let’s make sure it’s not just the angle of the pic, though. Pull back and try to see the rest of that upper spacer. Refer to my pic. Zoom in on it and you’ll see what I see. There should be two flanges back to back. One from the rubber bushing, the other from the metal spacer.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 11-27-2023 at 04:42 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Don't trust this old man's memory! I pushed the cat off my lap and went outside to check my rear shock, which I've removed and installed several times. SS is correct -- the two spacers (item 1810) are installed backwards. The wide ends mate to the urethane bushing (item 160f), not the metal chassis brackets, just as shown in the parts diagram I linked to.
Thanks SS.
Now it's beer cat time.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
Yeah. In that second shot, the left one - which is actually the right side of the bike judging by the belt - is wrong. The other one looks a little weird, but in your first shot, it looked ok. You can see the flange next to the rubber, and the other end into that recessed channel. The focus is just a little off, that's all.
As you know, the wide, flange ends of the spacers act to "sandwich" and support the rubber bushing in the lower shock mount. In yours, you can see that the wrong one is already trying to work its way under the rubber and cause it to bulge out. What I don't know for sure is if this is a dealer or a factory issue. I just don't know how disassembled they are when they show up in the crate. In any event, if you are not happy with the response of the dealer to your needs, you can take your business elsewhere.
Disappointing. It's a great machine. But, they need to do better than this.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 11-27-2023 at 07:14 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Both spacers are installed backwards -- the flanges mate to the urethane bushing not the chassis brackets.
This is a dealer preparation failure. For packaging reasons BRP ships the Spyders with the lower shock mount disconnected and the parts in a separate package. The dealer is responsible for assembly and, in the case of the ACS, height calibration. Multiple failures in this instance.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
Both spacers are installed backwards -- the flanges mate to the urethane bushing not the chassis brackets.
Multiple failures in this instance.
Two dealer failures that have so far been discovered! I would be standing on the service managers desk demanding immediate corrective action. And...... a thorough inspection of each and every dealer prep item by a knowledgeable, trained person. The owner of your dealership SHOULD be very concerned about the sloppy workmanship his people are doing. Liability.....?
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
Mine ended up with a series of problems. In the end they changed the whole rear suspension components as a set. It used to throw C210A codes too.
After they connect the ride height arm, it was still throwing codes, though only as I went over road conditions where it unloaded the rear suspension.
Be aware, the air system affects the ride height leveling system. It does not provide the main suspension, that is the regular shock and spring.
To be honest, I would take it back to the dealer and get them to redo the PDI again, preferably while the shop foreman watches on, or even you watch on.
Omitting the bolt is one thing, getting the spacers the wrong way around is another. Omitting the bolt is missing a step in the process, putting the spacers in backwards is not understanding or even following the process.
I'd also give the the BRP area rep a call, they may need to force the dealer's tech to get re-certified. Who knows what else was done incorrectly too?
If they are assembling Spyders incorrectly, they may well be doing the same for 4 wheelers and watercraft.
BRP should be concerned, incorrect assembly will be costing them warranty expenditure down the road, as well as the obvious potential safety issues.
Can Am Syder RT Limited (2021)
Triumph Bonneville T120 (2018)
Mine ended up needing all the valves pipework, compressor, It might be warm enough in Kentucky to do that. Mine was stuck from Thanksgiving until Easter waiting for parts through Covid to finally fix it all.
Now it runs great, but oh boy was I a bit ticked with all the problems on a new bike. I should have lemon lawed it, but I thought OK so I get a new one, but that's no guarantee it will be any better so I'd rather have the one they fixed.
It started with the missing ride height lever bolt, but then went down hill after that. They changed everything that appeared problematic to begin with and I kept going back week after week until the snow came, then they gave up and ordered the whole system. They'd fix it, test it, and then it would do it again on the way home. The tech rode it around for hours and it would be fine. I'd get 10 miles down the freeway on the way home and it would all start again. It turned out that unloading the suspension over bumps on the freeway, with my extra weight over the tech's, seemed to be the trigger. Drove us mad.
Can Am Syder RT Limited (2021)
Triumph Bonneville T120 (2018)
The connecting arm was the problem with my 2022 S2S. It caused the compressor to fail as well as drain the battery, which was also replaced. Also, the skid plates were really scrapped up due to the trike bottoming out due to the air suspension failing. The dealer did replace everything and for 3 months now, there's been no issues.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-04-2023 at 07:31 PM.
Reason: ST-S's ceased production in 2015/16... ;-/
Update- I took it back to the dealer and they took care of the problem. I nicely let them know that this doesn't inspire much confidence in their service department. My old powersports dealer retired about 18 months ago and the local H-D dealer bought his franchises. I am trying to establish a good relationship with this dealer, so I didn't want to act like a jerk. The sad thing is, there are 3 Can Am dealers within 50 miles of me and this one gets a gold rating on the BRP website while the other 2 get silver. We shall see. Again, thank you all for responding and helping out a new guy.
Well, that didn't take long... First fault on my new 2023 RTL! Air Suspension Fault.
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Originally Posted by BertRemington
