Anyone know what C1048 Fault Code is?

[fuzzyspyder]

Anyone know what the C1048 Code is?

I am also getting the low brake fluid warning. I have added fluid until I don't dare add any more.

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[Bfromla]

Sorry don’t know code, have you checked float sensors in reservoir? maybe stuck. Caution brake fluid caustic.

[fuzzyspyder]

Yea ... One of them was actually stuck. Tomorrow I plan to do a brake fluid flush. Might help, even though the bike only has 3k on it, it is 4 years old, the fluid appears to not have been flushed.

[Mikey]

You're not holding your foot to close to the pedal to activate the brake switch, are you?

[fuzzyspyder]

You're not holding your foot to close to the peddle to activate the brake switch, are you?

I never keep my foot on the pedal. This code and the brake light is on all the time.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I never keep my foot on the pedal. This code and the brake light is on all the time.

I would look at the Brake SWITCH under the bike ..... It should cleaned, then lubed with something like Silicone DRY LUBE ..... because it might be stuck .... this is not un-common ..... good luck .... Mike

[Peter Aawen]

I never keep my foot on the pedal. This code and the brake light is on all the time.

If this actually is one of the Brake codes (& I don't know that for sure - I don't show that code at all... But my database is getting a bit long in the tooth, & your bike is one of the newer models! ) you really don't have to keep your foot on the pedal to trigger the code &/or light - it might just be that you've kept your foot a little too close to the pedal as you ride, so it's bumped it a little every now & then, or it's been close enough to juuuust touch & it hasn't fully returned to its full off position! This was a real issue on older models of these bikes - even just brushing the pedal occasionally as you rode could trigger it; or trail-braking for too long thru the twisties....

But then of late we have seen a fair few of these recent models show brake errors due to slightly or mildly dirty switches sticking a bit; and some others that required switch replacements!

Good Luck!

[fuzzyspyder]

Update:

Today I did a brake fluid flush. Pulled a full reservoir of fluid through there lines.

1) Jacked up front of bike, removed front wheels.
2) Sucked all the fluid out of the reservoirs (as much as I could get with my brake syringe).
3) Filled reservoir with new Dot4.
4) Using a hand vacuum pump, I drew fluid through the bleeder valve at right front wheel until the reservoir was pretty low. Refilled the reservoir with new Dot4.
5) Repeated this for each brake bleeder valve.
6) Put wheels back on, torqued them and did a test ride.

Okay, did I get all the old fluid out, probably not. Do your ever? But, I got most and am comfortable the fluid id good.

Brakes work fine, actually great.

The next thing I did was to remove the fronk liner so I could get to the battery. My goal here was to install a battery tender cable to the battery so this winter I can leave the bike on a tender. To my surprise, there was already one there. When I followed the wires, It is a water tight box/plug that is the same plug my tender uses and it is cable tied to the front right suspension on top. Easy access.

Since I was there, I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes in the hop the computer would reset/reboot.

I put everything back together and the brake light is still on the dash and the code is still there. And now it has a friend.

Codes now showing in my code list:

C1048
C232C

No idea why the pic is upside down?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Update:

Today I did a brake fluid flush. Pulled a full reservoir of fluid through there lines.

1) Jacked up front of bike, removed front wheels.
2) Sucked all the fluid out of the reservoirs (as much as I could get with my brake syringe).
3) Filled reservoir with new Dot4.
4) Using a hand vacuum pump, I drew fluid through the bleeder valve at right front wheel until the reservoir was pretty low. Refilled the reservoir with new Dot4.
5) Repeated this for each brake bleeder valve.
6) Put wheels back on, torqued them and did a test ride.

Okay, did I get all the old fluid out, probably not. Do your ever? But, I got most and am comfortable the fluid id good.

Brakes work fine, actually great.

The next thing I did was to remove the fronk liner so I could get to the battery. My goal here was to install a battery tender cable to the battery so this winter I can leave the bike on a tender. To my surprise, there was already one there. When I followed the wires, It is a water tight box/plug that is the same plug my tender uses and it is cable tied to the front right suspension on top. Easy access.

Since I was there, I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes in the hop the computer would reset/reboot.

I put everything back together and the brake light is still on the dash and the code is still there. And now it has a friend.

Codes now showing in my code list:

C1048
C232C

No idea why the pic is upside down?

I don't like to repeat myself ..... But did you check the BRAKE SWITCH ???????? .....Mike

[fuzzyspyder]

On the agenda for tomorrow

[Mikey]

What would be nice is BRP using the same fault codes throughout, all of their toys the same, so we don't have to guess what the darn codes mean. But you say that your brake is on all the time whether your foot's on the pad or not, there's a gremlin down there somewhere! Good luck

[fuzzyspyder]

Okay, so the Nov 3 update!

I waited until today to "Check the Brake Switch because I wanted to install the Lamonster Position 4 Brake rod at the same time (I am 70 with a bad back, to artificial knees and two "repaired soldiers and getting to the ground is easy, getting up, not so much).
I did the Lamonster Rod install (easy since my Spyder had the Position 4 Can-Am Rod.

Next, armed with rags, contact cleaner and canned air, I went to clean the brake switch. I have purchased a shop manual and it shows the switch being behind the right passenger floorboard. I must be getting old ... I found the hydraulic secondary sender (whatever it's called) with the boot and the adjustment (no slop) but I for the life of me can not see the brake switch or the Low Pressure switch the manual talks about.

I did check everything I saw for dirt debris etc, nada. This trike has 3K miles on it and looks as if the thing could be on a showroom as new.

My next thought was to check codes.

IMG_0814.jpg

Pretty crazy. The C232C is gone and a new one U0128


My next thought is since the bike is new to me, and sat in a widows garage when her husband passed. And I have only put about 70 miles on it, maybe the battery voltage is low and that is messing with the electronics.

Bike now is on a battery tender.

[fuzzyspyder]

New Update:

Went out to the garage and checked codes.

All that is there now is the C1048. Maybe voltage on battery was low?

Anyway, reached out to the used bike dealer I usually use (They facilitated the deal) and he is checking with his service department. He got back to me and believes the C1048 is the low fluid sensor. I am guessing that is the low pressure switch? My manual only talks about 2 switches (Brake switch and the low pressure switch).

Apparently getting to that switch is not a lay on the ground and look thing, gotta remove the right passenger board support and the switch cover. Researching how to do that now.

Screenshot 2023-11-03 at 12.14.23.jpg

[Snowbelt Spyder]

OMG. Get off of the floor and stop guessing. Your Service guy is correct. A fluid level sensor, not a pressure switch (which, of course, is literally just a micro-switch). Right from the BUDS2 Fault Code Database for the 2019 F3:

C1048:
Cause: - Brake Fluid Level Switch shorted to Battery+, Ground, or Failed.

Action: Check for damaged Brake Fluid Level Switch wire, connector, or switch. Replace as required.

I'm sure you know where they are....but just in case, see pic. Doesn't say which one. Process of elimination.

Part number: 705601073. In the parts system it's called an Oil Level Sensor. Has been from the very beginning. Don't know why. It's correct on electrical prints.

Granted, all of those other maintenance items you did needed to be done, anyway. And, if this is the original battery, it needs replaced, before it lets you down, even if you didn't have any codes.

[fuzzyspyder]

OMG. Get off of the floor and stop guessing. Your Service guy is correct. A fluid level sensor, not a pressure switch. Right from the BUDS2 Fault Code Database for the 2019 F3:

C1048:
Cause: - Brake Fluid Level Switch shorted to Battery+, Ground, or Failed.

Action: Check for damaged Brake Fluid Level Switch wire, connector, or switch. Replace as required.

I'm sure you know where they are....but just in case, see pic. Doesn't say which one. Process of elimination.

Part number: 705601073. In the parts system it's called an Oil Level Sensor. Has been from the very beginning. Don't know why. It's correct on electrical prints.

Granted, all of those other maintenance items you did needed to be done, anyway. And, if this is the original battery, it needs replaced, before it lets you down, even if you didn't have any codes.

Thanks ... Pulled the side service cover off ... while I was trying to figure how to get the right passenger board mount off, I noticed a "pinched wire" ... I think it was to the level switch, cause when I unpinched it and covered the fray, all was well. No codes and no light.

Only one thing left to do .... "Ride Sally Ride!"

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[Mikey]

Thank you Snowbelt!!