Parking brake stuck and engine won't turn over - any ideas??

[Isopedella]

Yep. Remove it and charge using a smart charger, not a trickle charger for a day and refit.

[BertRemington]

This is baffling. The fuel pump is controlled by the ECM. The brake lamps and ECM share the same brake switch circuit. Console power seems good. If an F3L has an adjustable windshield can you change height (this tests parking brake circuit).

On my 2014 the starting circuit is LFB R2 controlled by the starter button and starter solenoid controlled by the ECM. So R2 can be working but the ECM doesn't say Yes.

There seems to be a magic ECM fuse LFB F5 5amp that can cause weird problems.

That's all I got but I don't like that battery failure. Bad things can happen when SLAs run dry.

Best wishes.

[DanY]

Yep. Remove it and charge using a smart charger, not a trickle charger for a day and refit.

a new battery?

[BajaRon]

Have you tried jumping straight to the starter?

[bikerchris1270]

Apparently, the battery was bad so I bought and installed new battery and tried to start.

Unfortunately, no difference

Anything else to try?

Look in the front trunk area for the fuse blocks. ... Take the plastic end of a screwdriver and tap on the relays. ... Look for the start relay.

[Isopedella]

a new battery?

Yep. Every time. Its needs conditioning.

https://youmotorcycle.com/how-to-fil...e-battery.html

[DanY]

Have you tried jumping straight to the starter?

How might I do that?

[DanY]

I have switched batteries with a new one from my wife's 2019 F3L with no better results.

It behaves exactly as one with the kill switch on. Can it be the kill switch itself? How can I determine that? Can I bypass the switch?

[BertRemington]

I just tested my 2014. Kill switch Off, then Ignition On. Console sequence normal but no fuel pump prime and no response to Start button. Turned Kill switch On, fuel pump prime. You had fuel pump prime (#24 above).

[DanY]

Bert,

To be honest, I couldn't tell if I had fuel pump prime or not. How do I know for sure?

[BertRemington]

After you turn ignition On you will hear a noticeable whine for 3-4 seconds beneath the driver seat. This is the fuel pump pressuring the fuel injector rail for a quick start after the start button is pressed. Compare with your wife's F3L.

[fatboy]

are you stepping on the brake

[BertRemington]

Stepping on the brake is not required for the priming sequence or the start sequence on my 2014. I usually stand to the left of my Spyder, wait out the safety prompt, push the mode button and then the start button. Then I put my riding suit on during the warmup idle.

[Knizar]

Stepping on the brake is not required for the priming sequence or the start sequence on my 2014. I usually stand to the left of my Spyder, wait out the safety prompt, push the mode button and then the start button. Then I put my riding suit on during the warmup idle.

BUT! If the spyder was shut down with it still in gear, you have to step on the brake before the starter will kick in.

[BertRemington]

Thank you for correcting my ignorance. Does stepping on the brake pedal apply to the priming sequence? Are there any other "1st gear ignition off" gotchas?

[DanY]

are you stepping on the brake

Yes, most definitely.

[DanY]

It's like the kill switch never releases, even though I have turned it off and on dozens of times.

[BertRemington]

So your fuel pump isn't going through its priming sequence?

Start your wife's F3L, let it idle 30 seconds, shift into 1st, wait 30 seconds, turn ignition OFF, wait 30 seconds after the headlights turn off, then turn ignition ON without your foot on brake pedal. Does the fuel pump go through its priming sequence (it should)?

Now (I'm not expecting this) -- press the brake pedal. The fuel pump should go through its priming sequence, and you should be able to start her F3L after the automatic shift into Neutral is completed.

Yes -- there is something wrong with your F3L I can't diagnose.

[JayBros]

Thank you for correcting my ignorance. Does stepping on the brake pedal apply to the priming sequence? Are there any other "1st gear ignition off" gotchas?

No, not on my '14. If I have shut down the engine with it in 1st gear and not in neutral, which I do only if my brain is somewhere other then shutting down the bike, and use the kill switch to shut down the engine, when I turn on the ignition switch and then turn on the kill switch the fuel pump will prime like yours did with no foot on the brake, but if I press the start button without first stepping on the brake, the safety cut out will not allow the start button to work.

[Mikey]

I think it's time to try what Ron suggested and try to jump the starter solenoid, just to see if the starter really rolls over and engages! Where is it on his bike?

[DanY]

I think it's time to try what Ron suggested and try to jump the starter solenoid, just to see if the starter really rolls over and engages! Where is it on his bike?

How would I do that?

[BertRemington]

Don't. Just don't.

First of all, BR said Starter and Mikey said Starter Solenoid. Very different. And with the heavy currents and complex circuits involved you're at significant risk of further damaging your Spyder including a fire.

The starter sequence involves a relay, a solenoid including a diode, a button and three direct connections to the ECM all of which are ground-commanded as well as the starter itself.

Shoving a sketchy cable into a crowded space which you are most apparently not familiar with will end in sadness.

Your best course of action at this point is to trailer your Spyder to the dealer and trade it for another. Before there is smoke if not actual flames.

==========

If I have persuaded you away from a starter/starter solenoid test, what were the results from testing your wife's F3L as I described above? (Apologies for the confusing misspelling No as Now in my test instructions.)

Is your fuel pump priming?

While both Yes and No are bad, No is worse than Yes. Although in both instances I suggest it's time for a BUDS2 diagnosis.

Since this situation is becoming dire, I will say what I've held back before.

While SLA batteries are "sealed" they do have vents. And a 4 year old battery in the severe heat of Central TX is likely to have lost electrolyte. Which results in increased internal resistance of the battery thereby reducing its ability to absorb over-voltage transients, those transients being harmful to Spyder electronics.

Take your F3L to a dealer with BUDS2 before you damage it any further.

[safecracker]

I did not see anyone mention the parking brake switch. This is located on the right side of the bike. The wheel that controls the parking brake cable hits a micro switch. This controls the light display on the dash. So you could remove switch and control it manually. This probably wont help on starting issue. Bruce

[DanY]

Having tried everything that was suggested with no results, I ended up trailering the bike to the dealership where they stated they were 3 weeks behind.

I'll post the findings when known for someone's knowledge if they ever have a similar issue.

A huge thanks to everyone posting on this tread. A knowledge base from many contributors is one of the big reasons I love this forum!!

[Pirate]

I'll post the findings when known for someone's knowledge if they ever have a similar issue.

Thank you and good luck!