2014 ST battery replacement now DPS issues - any ideas/help?

[itcbitc]

The short story…8 year old oem battery (ytx24hl) died replaced with Etx30la battery and now going through corners I have what feels like dps issues. No lights or errors display, just resistance like it doesn’t want to turn. Am on vacation along ca coast, Santa Rosa is 2 hours away and not open until Tuesday. Anyone close to Manchester with a buds system?? Or advice?
TIA
Sharon

[Bfromla]

New battery need good full saturation (overnight) charge

[itcbitc]

Yes @Bfromla you are correct and thank you for your response. I clamped a rugged something (forgot the name) booster to battery and rode down the road through a few corners and spyder was back to normal feeling. However after riding around that way for about an hour dps issues of tough steering seem to return. So I have the Santa Rosa shop trickle charging me a new battery so I can pick it up on Tuesday. Wondering if it might be a magneto/charging issue maybe???

[Bfromla]

Hopefully not. Also helps add star washers between lead post & terminals

[Peter Aawen]

When I replaced the battery on my 2013 RT (similar battery/charge set-up to your ST ) all the wriggling & movement of the Earth lead at the battery end caused the terminal on other end of that strap, which just happens to also be the main Earth for the DPS, to partly detach from the cable, and as a result, I had some worrying DPS issues rear their ugly head on cornering.

After checking just about everything else, I eventually removed the LH Front Wheel and took a look at the Earth point behind the battery under/alongside the DPS where it mounts onto the frame deep inside that LH side 'tunnel' behind the wheel. I was initially just looking to make sure the Earth had a clean connection onto the frame, but as soon as I moved the cable, it was clear the cable & the terminal that bolts onto the frame weren't quite moving together, and that the 'soldered terminal' wasn't really making a good connection onto the cable OR onto the frame!

A bit of judicious application of heat (via a biiig Soldering iron! ) and some solder saw the cable & terminal rejoined as they should've been, and some wet-&-dry sandpaper, a star-washer, & a socket sorted the 'good, clean, & tight connection to the frame' bit and my DPS woes were over! Mind you, it wasn't easy reaching in there to do it all, at what was effectively 'full reach', but needs must, and there's a fair amount of room in there for large hands, so I didn't leak too much claret over everything.

Might be worth you having a look in there?! And maybe checking all the Earth Terminals again, including the one on the battery??

[Isopedella]

How did ya get on. .

[itcbitc]

UPDATE: sorry for slow response, have had lots going on in life. Anyways issue has been resolved and to my embarrassment a little, the new battery post could be connected either on the front or top, so since the previous oem battery connected to the front that is how it got connected with the new battery. Didn’t notice until later that the plastic on the battery stuck out a small amount and prevented a solid connection despite it feeling totally tight it wasn’t…just as Bfromla lead on. So since I didn’t have star washers I ended up connecting to the top post on the battery and don’t ya know, my itcbitc spyder was back to herself and me a much more happy Ryder! Learned lots and super appreciate all the comments and assistance <3

[Bfromla]

Called Learning CURVE (ryde it!). Glad not an expensive fix thx for update. (Pesky battery/back ache location -poor lighting & tight space ain’t no help)

[Isopedella]

Pleased you got it sorted. Wow, what a cost effective fix.

Ya know life is a learning curve from day one, haven't met a bloke yet that does a perfect job 1st off with absolutely everything in his lifetime, sometimes has to think himm, whats going on here from time to time. I must be an expert on himm by now with all my himm moments and revisiting stuff.

Cheers for reporting back.