Does it cost this much for Brake fluid change from dealership?

[Chiefburg]

I had a recall completed on my 2020 RTL recently and inquired about a brake fluid change. I believe it is supposed to be done every two years. Seems the process is long and complicated if ALL the fluid is drained and replaced, including the ABS. I was told it was a 5-6 hour job to complete. At shop rates, that sounds very expensive just to change the fluid. I know it requires their computer to properly do the job. If my calculations are correct, I could pay upwards of $700 just to change the brake fluid.

Does this seem right? I do know I want good brakes and good brakes do cost....and I know these toys come with spending more money...
Just wondering what others are doing and/or paying to service their brake fluid.

[CloverHillCrawler]

It seems a little more than what I have heard some people state on here.

I haven't had to pay for one myself as it gets done when my spyder gets reframed usually before it's 2 year required interval!

[LJspydee]

I had a recall completed on my 2020 RTL recently and inquired about a brake fluid change. I believe it is supposed to be done every two years. Seems the process is long and complicated if ALL the fluid is drained and replaced, including the ABS. I was told it was a 5-6 hour job to complete. At shop rates, that sounds very expensive just to change the fluid. I know it requires their computer to properly do the job. If my calculations are correct, I could pay upwards of $700 just to change the brake fluid.

Does this seem right? I do know I want good brakes and good brakes do cost....and I know these toys come with spending more money...
Just wondering what others are doing and/or paying to service their brake fluid.

Install Speed Bleeders and it is a quick, one man operation.

[BertRemington]

Concur with LJ. If you haven't done it before, you need two friends: (1) a buddy who has bled brakes before; and (2) search of this website. You don't need to bleed the VCM (ABS) but you need to be really really careful not to let air into the system. Check the fluid reservoirs every three pumps of the brake pedal! If they go dry you have hours of work ahead. I recommend ATE 200 for brake fluid because, among other reasons, it comes in a metal container.

[Woodaddict]

I had a recall completed on my 2020 RTL recently and inquired about a brake fluid change. I believe it is supposed to be done every two years. Seems the process is long and complicated if ALL the fluid is drained and replaced, including the ABS. I was told it was a 5-6 hour job to complete. At shop rates, that sounds very expensive just to change the fluid. I know it requires their computer to properly do the job. If my calculations are correct, I could pay upwards of $700 just to change the brake fluid.

Does this seem right? I do know I want good brakes and good brakes do cost....and I know these toys come with spending more money...
Just wondering what others are doing and/or paying to service their brake fluid.

Hey Chiefburg, look this fluid post over. I was quoted $841.50 in labor. Goto anybody local friendly spyder rider with BUDS, can do it much cheaper

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...fluid-properly

[Gwolf]

Mine takes about 15 or 20 minutes and costs maybe $8. Got speed bleeders on all 3 wheels and a hand vacuum pump to pull the fluid through to a catch jar.

Made all the vacuum bleeder system myself with an old surplus lab pump a gallon jug, and some tubing. Been using it for years, It don't leave enough of the old fluid in the system to even detect a different color.

I use the same vacuum brake bleeder on all the other brands I work on and to bleed hydraulic steering pumps and other things that have to be opened up.

I change the fluid in the Spyder without BUDS. If I was worried about the tiny amount of old fluid left in the system, it would be easy enough to change it, ride it, then change it again. Might cost $16, and the tiny amount of old fluid would be so diluted with new fluid it would be completely insignificant.

[Navydad]

$20 for three speed bleeders and one hour of my time including installing the speed bleeders. Oh yeah, the cost of the bottle of brake fluid.

[Woodaddict]

$20 for three speed bleeders and one hour of my time including installing the speed bleeders. Oh yeah, the cost of the bottle of brake fluid.

4 speedbleeders if you include brake module

[Bfromla]

Reminder proper Sequence please. sitting on bike TIA

[pegasus1300]

B left, right, rear. No BUDS

[tibadoe]

Thanks for the reminder -- Speed Bleeders ordered!

[RickWB]

I paid $300 Cdn for a brake flush at the dealer, excluded the ABS module.

[ned64]

I was charged 3 hrs time to change the brake fluid out. Asked why it takes so long. Was told it's a time consuming job. $130 per hour. Wont pay them again to do that job. Be buying speed bleeders for when its time again.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

IMHO you don't have to be a CanAm spyder tech to change the brake fluid ..... anyone that can do a car, truck, or any Mtc. can do the Spyder. .... If you can't, bring speed bleeders to any mechanic, have the bleeders put on gat the task done ..... As far as including the ABS system, does it NEED to be done???? .... The amount of fluid is very small and won't noticebly effect your Braking power .... good luck ... Mike

[Isopedella]

Sounds like almost everybody up your way is getting totally ripped with a brake fluid change charges.
Estimated times and stuff are total crap.

If you can open a bleeder valve with a spanner and pour some fluid into a cup you can do this. If you dont have a Scooby-Doo (clue) how to do it well watch some online stuff and put the hundreds of $$ towards worthwhile.

[Chiefburg]

Thanks all. I will do this job myself. I guess I was shocked at the number of hours estimated to do the job.

[Columbia]

My "dealer" loves to sell spyders and hates to service them. Lots of push back when I call. I'm always looking for anyone else to work on the spyder: including me.

the dealer wanted $550 for a brake fluid change.

Nope.

My barely experienced hands and eyes and arms plus speed bleeders and some good brake fluid plus a couple hours jacking, blocking, draining and filling = job done.

I don't hurry and my work space is not designed for work. Others have better space, better tools and most likely more experience, so time to change brake fluid will vary.

Degree of difficulty? 1 on a scale of zero to ten.

[chipveres]

The hand vacuum pump is $25 at Harbor Freight. That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.

[Gwolf]

The hand vacuum pump is $25 at Harbor Freight. That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.

And enough clear plastic tubing so that you can sit side of the master cylinder and keep it filled full enough that no air bubbles get sucked into the lines while you are pulling the new fluid into the brake lines.


This is basically what I use with the hand brake bleeder pump. You could just use a quart Mason jar with the tubing epoxied into the lid. I use a half gallon clear glass jug. Sometimes have to remove over-filled oil in small engines, or pull some other over-filled liquid out of something. The catch jar is just to drop the liquid into and prevent it from being sucked into the little hand pump. With the larger jug, you can suck engine oil out of small gas engines for people who have put a quart or more too much oil in them.

You can build the catch jar for less that $5, or maybe for free if you have the tubing and stoppers laying around.

[Chiefburg]

I ordered the speed bleeders yesterday so I will do this myself. Thanks for telling me about the speed bleeders - never heard of them!

[Isopedella]

You dont absolutely need speed bleeders or any type of pump.

If you can find someone to operate the brake and keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level you dont absolutely need speed bleeders.

Bit of tubing and a jar . A big syringe is helpful to suck out all the old fluid in the master cyl, or you could siphon it with the tubing I guess.

Someone asked for the bleeding sequence.

The answer supplied was....
B left, right, rear.

Rule of thumb, you bleed the furthermost from the slave cyl first. Keep pumping it until you have fresh, clean and clear fluid. Then work forwards.

I have no idea what B left, right, rear. is code for.

[Gwolf]

You dont absolutely need speed bleeders or any type of pump.

If you can find someone to operate the brake and keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level you dont absolutely need speed bleeders.

Bit of tubing and a jar . A big syringe is helpful to suck out all the old fluid in the master cyl, or you could siphon it with the tubing I guess.

Someone asked for the bleeding sequence.

The answer supplied was....
B left, right, rear.

Rule of thumb, you bleed the furthermost from the slave cyl first. Keep pumping it until you have fresh, clean and clear fluid. Then work forwards.

I have no idea what B left, right, rear. is code for.

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines and the brake cylinders. If you pull the old fluid out of the master cylinder, how does that ever purge the old fluid from the brake lines?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

[Isopedella]

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines

Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.

[Steve W.]

... That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.

You have to be careful with the term "best". Some will insist that the best brake fluid is DOT5 because it's a higher number than DOT3 or DOT4. The problem is that DOT5 is NOT compatible, and should not be used.

I have not looked to see if the Spyder requires DOT4 instead of DOT3, but you can safely use DOT4 when DOT3 is called for.

.

[Gwolf]

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines

Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.

I guess you could do it like that. I just pull it through the lines with a small, hand vacuum pump. Never leave the shop stool side of the master cylinder. Never have to pump the brakes. It takes about 15 minutes, and all done. Speed bleeders are the easiest way. Even if you pump or siphon the old fluid from the master cylinder, you are still having to move it, and emptying the master cylinder is another chance for air bubbles to get in the brake lines. That is one reason I pull the old fluid out and never let the master cylinder get less than about half full. Trying to purge air from lines that have high loops in them is worse than changing the fluid. The vacuum pump and the speed bleeders can prevent any air bubbles from ever entering the system. Brake pressure will be rock solid first time you step on the pedal.

Everybody can do it their own way. I just find the speed bleeders and the little hand vacuum pump easier.