Hello, I just joined the forum and need some help. I have a 2013 Spyder RTS SM5 Rotax 998cc engine that will start up just fine. However, when it idles, it will rev back and forth between 1100-1150 rpms then die. I will restart it, and it will stay running. When I put it in Reverse, it struggles when I try to rev the engine, even when I don't release the clutch. On the road, it struggles to accelerate, especially in higher gears, I have to downshift to get power. In some instances when I accelerate it will stall, then suddenly take off. I already replaced the fuel and air filter, and fuel it with 91 octane no ethanol gasoline, with little improvement in the performance. What else could be the cause of this problem? And has anyone else experienced this? Your help is appreciated.
Thank you.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-10-2023 at 04:44 PM.
Reason: stuggles; intances; expanded title to briefly ask the question; + ... ;-)
Hello, I just joined the forum and need some help. I have a 2013 Spyder RTS SM5 Rotax 998cc engine that will start up just fine. However, when it idles, it will rev back and forth between 1100-1150 rpms then die. I will restart it, and it will stay running. When I put it in reverse, it stuggles when I try to rev the engine even when dont release the clutch. On the road, it stuggles to accerate especially in higher gears, I have to downshift to get power. In some intances when I accelerate it will stall, then suddenly take off. I already replaced the fuel and air filter and fuel it with 91 octane no ethanol gasoline with little improvement in the performance. What else could be the cause of this problem?, and has anyone experienced this? Your help is appreciated.
Thank you.
What else? Vacuum lines to the MAP Sensor. Do a search of the forum. You’ll find info and pictures. Typical 998 issue. Inspect the vacuum line to your clutch assist solenoid, also, to be sure there are no leaks. A dose of fuel injector cleaner won’t hurt, either.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Last edited by Bfromla; 09-10-2023 at 01:17 PM.
Reason: Link
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
What else? Vacuum lines to the MAP Sensor. Do a search of the forum. You’ll find info and pictures. Typical 998 issue. Inspect the vacuum line to your clutch assist solenoid, also, to be sure there are no leaks. A dose of fuel injector cleaner won’t hurt, either.
I have pics in an Album that shows how I re-routed the Gas line to the EVAP cannister so GAS cannot get into that cannister. .... some folks here just remove the cannister entirely .... Also if you still have OEM plug wires think about trashing them .... they are junk and FAIL early in life .... get the ones from BajaRon .... good luck ... Mike
The shift point on the 998 is at 5500 rpms compared to 3500 on the 1330 engine. You may be under-revving when shifting. A brisk ride at 60 or higher so you can keep it at 5500 rpms at 55-60 might help to loosen things up. The red line on these is 7800 if memory is still good.
On my 998 SM5 I would never use fifth gear until I was into 60 mph or faster. We rented a spyder on Maui back in the day. Drove the 50 mile long Hana Highway totally in first gear. Most of the speed limits were 25 and under.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 09-11-2023 at 08:16 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Ok, I followed Snowbelt Spyder's advise and replaced the vacuum lines on the MAP sensor. They didn't appear to be cracked, but were brittle. I took the Spyder for a test ride and there was an improvement with the acceleration. Still have the problem with the reverse. I have no idea where the clutch assist solenoid is located to check the vacuum line on it. Spark plugs and wires are next.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
Ok, I followed Snowbelt Spyder's advise and replaced the vacuum lines on the MAP sensor. They didn't appear to be cracked, but were brittle. I took the Spyder for a test ride and there was an improvement with the acceleration. Still have the problem with the reverse. I have no idea where the clutch assist solenoid is located to check the vacuum line on it. Spark plugs and wires are next.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
I can send you more info once I get back to my computer. In the mean time, you could benefit from doing a canisterectomy. Eliminates another potential failure mode from the purge valve. Many people do it. Do a forum search for that word. All this is on the right hand side of the motor. Plus, plugs and wires are always good. And, you will become intimately familiar with the air box trying to access the front plug.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Ok, I followed Snowbelt Spyder's advise and replaced the vacuum lines on the MAP sensor. They didn't appear to be cracked, but were brittle. I took the Spyder for a test ride and there was an improvement with the acceleration. Still have the problem with the reverse. I have no idea where the clutch assist solenoid is located to check the vacuum line on it. Spark plugs and wires are next.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
On the right side of the engine are the components for the clutch assist system. Inspect the rubber lines for vacuum leaks. There should be no continuous vacuum sucking through the vent port when the engine is running. Bottom line is this - heat that is trapped under all of that plastic was the biggest enemy to rubber components on the 998 RT. Not so much mileage. Specifically for the 2013 RT - without going into all of the details - the heat was so bad that it prompted a Safety Recall. So, on your 2013 RT, if you have the scoop looking things underneath of your mirrors, scoops that act like air intakes to direct air under the plastic, then you have had the recall done. If you have just plain looking air deflectors, then you'd better get to a dealer and get the recall done. For the 2013 machine, there was a lot more aspects to the recall than just the air scoops. You can't do it all yourself. It's just that the scoops are the most visible.
If you're not really certain what this all means, then search the forum. Plenty of info and pictures. And all of the documents relating to the recall are on the NHTSA site.
Not really sure why reverse gives you more issues. But, if you feel that your clutch might be dragging just a bit and bogging down the engine, remember that your clutch fluid needs replaced every 2 years. Perhaps you'll just need to catch up on some preventative and corrective maintenance. I 'm assuming that the machine is new to you. Good Luck.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 09-11-2023 at 06:27 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
I agree with purge valve. On testing the clutch, a quick test for proper operation is to pull the clutch lever in with the engine off; there should be some resistance. Start the engine and pull the clutch lever in; the resistance should be a lot less. Bruce
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-12-2023 at 01:04 AM.
Reason: the the; alot; + ... ;-)
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
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Snowbelt Spyder, Thank you for the info. The weird thing about the reverse issue is that when I have the clutch disengaged and I increase the throttle, it struggles to rev up. It does fine in the other gears. It says in the maintenance section of the owner's manual to check the reverse mechanism operation and adjust as needed, but no instructions on how to do it. I'll contact a dealer on the recall issue. You're right, this is a new machine for me!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-12-2023 at 01:06 AM.
Reason: instuctions... ; + ;-)
My problem is solved, it was a fouled spark plug on the right side, heavy carbon build up. Ended up taking it to a shop since getting to that right side plug was going to be a battle. They replaced the plug, cleaned the injectors and checked the fluids. It runs better than the day we bought it 5 years ago!
My problem is solved, it was a fouled spark plug on the right side, heavy carbon build up. Ended up taking it to a shop since getting to that right side plug was going to be a battle. They replaced the plug, cleaned the injectors and checked the fluids. It runs better than the day we bought it 5 years ago!
Sounds like the engine might be lugging. A common problem with the 998. Should try to keep it at or above 3,500 RPM at shift and 4,500 running rpm.
I have been driving mine out in the countryside in 4th gear most of the time, and using my 5th gear like overdrive! That keeps RPM's mostly in the right place. Been working for me!