Any advice re DPS and CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WARNINGS?

[hensmanj4220]

I own a 2011 Spyder RTS-SE5 which has only 19,000 miles on it. About three weeks ago the DPS / CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and all gauges when crazy. They reset themselves and we never experienced LIMP-MODE. The same condition came on and off for a few days before we took an Alaska Cruise (10-days). I got back riding today - and no warnings came on driving it 45 minutes in 92-degree temperature. The only thing I did before leaving was - push all fuses and relays in to ensure they were not loose. Was planning on taking it to BRP - who stated it could be a software version upgrade causing the problem and it would cost $45.00 to hook up their OBD.

For now - I am just going to drive it and see if the warnings come back. If there are any suggestions out there as to the original cause or whatever I could do before spending money - let me know. Code that came up was UO155 when pressing three button combination suggested through monsters.com
Thanks

[Mikey]

First thing I would do is start your own thread - this thread was started in 2018!!! You may get someone's interest if you do!!!

My thoughts on your troubles are, you're going in the right direction, ride it and see if it comes back!

[hensmanj4220]

Thanks for responding. This is the first time I have mentioned anything, within this forum, and really didn't think anyone would respond. It is interesting that - I have learned more reading from solutions / problems that others are experiencing vs. from Spyder BRP directly. You would think they would want a piece of action and offer some "great-directional-guidlines" to support those who purchased their products.

As to the year difference - whether 2018 or 2011, the problem seems to be universal. If not for this forum - we all would just have to spend more money for fixes common problems and or have to just trust BRP and spend more money. Believe me - Spyder is a great product - but needs better "user-friendly-service."

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for responding. This is the first time I have mentioned anything, within this forum, and really didn't think anyone would respond. It is interesting that - I have learned more reading from solutions / problems that others are experiencing vs. from Spyder BRP directly. You would think they would want a piece of action and offer some "great-directional-guidlines" to support those who purchased their products.

As to the year difference - whether 2018 or 2011, the problem seems to be universal. If not for this forum - we all would just have to spend more money for fixes common problems and or have to just trust BRP and spend more money. Believe me - Spyder is a great product - but needs better "user-friendly-service."

I had an 08 that lit up like a christmas tree .... quite often ,..... however mostly had no Actual problems ..... the Bosch computers seem to be overly sensitive ..... right now my 1330 RT displays the " LIMP HOME " screen almost everyday .... runs fine tho..... good luck ....Mike

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Tighten the battery terminal connections.

[BajaRon]

The 2008-2012 DPS's were somewhat problematic. I have a 2008 GS and I'm on my 4th one. BRP paid for the first 3. The last one was on me. BRP made 3 revisions since the original. It was a design issue. I was told by engineers at BRP that they put DPS prototypes on a machine which simulated something like a million miles of use with zero issues. The trouble was, the simulator turned the DPS lock to lock every time. And the unit was designed to force lubrication up to the top only at full lock. But you can easily put a lot of miles on your Spyder without ever going full lock both directions.

When my DPS started acting up, they told me to turn the bars lock to lock several times every chance I got to help it stay functional until I could get it replaced. It doesn't sound like yours is to that point yet. But it wouldn't hurt. I simply did a little lock to lock circuit every time I stopped for fuel or in the hotel parking lot. That kept me going from just north of Tennessee where I started having trouble. To Valcort, CA and back.

The latest revision (I think came out in 2013 or 2014) has been a much more reliable uint.

In your case, it may be your Steering Position Sensor needs to be reset. Hopefully, it's something simple.

[Bfromla]

Load test Battery, double check clean & tight connections. (Add star washers between battery & terminal).

[hensmanj4220]

Current condition:
1. DPS Code Warning came on/off - with 100% of the cluster going out and resetting itself back to normal. DPS continued to come on/off for 1-2 hours of my ride (UO155) the same way. No steering problems noted - all normal operations. Spyder turns on normally. (VSS was noted but no code set - NO LIMP MODE CONDITION)
2. In addition – “Check Engine Light” came on after DPS stopped or reset itself - and also reset itself (UO155)
3. Then the “brake failure light” code came on (C1282) and currently remains on - even though the emergency brake releases and set normally - light remains on with code warning.
4. Disconnected (+/-) battery terminals, which apparently reset #1, but the check engine light still comes on/off whenever it feels like it. Cluster seems to be working normally even though codes are not showing (except as noted above).
5. I looked at the parking brake switch, cable, and motor that sets to light when engaged and sprayed it with some electrical cleaner. FYI – sound was not working prior to electrical cleaner intervention if Spyder was shut-off without setting the brake, but now is making the beeping sound. Cable seems normal in operations.

ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHY EVERY CODE IN THE BOOK CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME?

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[BajaRon]

Current condition:
1. DPS Code Warning came on/off - with 100% of the cluster going out and resetting itself back to normal. DPS continued to come on/off for 1-2 hours of my ride (UO155) the same way. No steering problems noted - all normal operations. Spyder turns on normally. (VSS was noted but no code set - NO LIMP MODE CONDITION)
2. In addition – “Check Engine Light” came on after DPS stopped or reset itself - and also reset itself (UO155)
3. Then the “brake failure light” code came on (C1282) and currently remains on - even though the emergency brake releases and set normally - light remains on with code warning.
4. Disconnected (+/-) battery terminals, which apparently reset #1, but the check engine light still comes on/off whenever it feels like it. Cluster seems to be working normally even though codes are not showing (except as noted above).
5. I looked at the parking brake switch, cable, and motor that sets to light when engaged and sprayed it with some electrical cleaner. FYI – sound was not working prior to electrical cleaner intervention if Spyder was shut-off without setting the brake, but now is making the beeping sound. Cable seems normal in operations.

ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHY EVERY CODE IN THE BOOK CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME?

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Typical scenario when battery voltage is low or terminal connections are not good. If you can check the voltage drop when cranking this may tell you what is up. If voltage drops below 11v during cranking it can set off all kinds of bells and whistles. Not saying it's the only possibility. But it's where I would start. The Spyder is extremely sensitive to low voltage.

[Peter Aawen]

Looking back on this, with all those lights & warnings coming on like that, it STILL sounds a whole lot like you've got either low voltage in your battery OR the battery isn't earthed/grounded to the frame properly or well enough?!

Being a 2011, I wonder if at some time in its history, someone's stripped or otherwise reduced the effectiveness of the 'under-seat' ground connection where the battery is earthed to the frame?? That earth/ground strap is secured to the frame with a bolt into a riv-nut type fitting, and MANY of these early Spyders had very similar problems to yours because that earth/ground connection wasn't tight &/or firmly affixed to clean, bright metal.... But the battery usually did suffer very quickly?!

Another thing I'm noticing more'n more these days is poor soldering/crimping of the terminal connections to the cable ends, especially on the 2013 & earlier Spyders, altho not exclusively.... It seems that (maybe in an effort to save money?? ) when whoever makes/supplies these heavy power cables & they fit the terminal ends onto the cable, they either don't heat things up enough, use an appropriate flux, or use enough solder, cos I've seen more than a couple of dozen in recent months where the bolt holding the terminal to the frame has been tight, but wriggling the cable itself revealed either a very poor connection or effectively none at all, with the cable effectively just pushed into the socket on that end of the terminal?! I guess this could be due to age &/or vibration over the years, but some of the Spyders I've seen it on have had very few miles on them, little work, and yet the cables aren't properly connected to the terminals, but the terminals ARE fitted securely to clean & bright metal on the frame, often with star washers included to make sure they've got a good connection and won't ever vibrate loose..... but the next joint up the line is the one that's now dodgy!!

Just a thought, but it might be worth checking every cable end you can find; &/or getting an auto electrician to look at the bike to see what's going on, rather than relying on the 'often clueless or poorly trained' dealer techs.... Just sayin' If nothing else has fixed it, then it's gotta be worth a shot, doesn't it??